Vallee Blanche? Also Les Arcs

This March I will be going to Les Arcs to ski with my wife and a couple of friends. A have just a few questions of anyone with intimate knowledge:

Should I ski Les Arcs every day (lodging is at Les Arcs 1900) or should we go down to the valley a day or two and bus to another close area? I do plan to go across and try to ski everything at Paradiski that is within my reach.

After our ski week we are going to spend a few days in Geneva and my wife foolishly suggested we go to Chamonix! As a life long rock and mountain climber, I suppressed myself and said "sure, I guess we could do that". Then - believe it or not she said we should take this Gondola up to a tall mountain called Midi. I've been on the internet ever since. So...this Vallee Blanche. Do a really need a guide to ski this route? It would be by myself as I don't see my wife descending that steep ridge at the top. I can ski better than most and do have lots of route finding experience, but not a lot of experience skiing next to crevasses. But I really don't like the idea of paying a few hundred bucks to be stuck with a group of slow skiers. Will there be guys like me waiting up top to team up? Should I bring my backcountry kit? Whatdoyathink? Please - stock answers to "get a guide" from people who have never been there are not needed.

Sent you a PM.

In some regards its similar to going sidecountry in that there are quite a few other folk going down so maybe theres some safety in that?  However its a world of difference given there are so many crevasses the full length of the trip down and avalanche potential of course.  I couldn't recommend doing this on your own.  I've been down a few times back in 2002 or thereabouts and used a guide the 1st day.  Beautiful conditions but you are right it shouldn't take all that long to get down but for some reason it does.  2nd day we did a tour after crossing the Mer de Glace and that was awesome indeed.  Rookie on snowshoes carrying board on back.  3 + a guide and given the nature of the glaciers down there I'd recommend using one if you can buddy in with some other decent skiers.  We were tightly roped up crossing the Mer De Glace and one of the party dropped into the abyss so that saved his ass, again another reason to go with others.

If there was a group of you and you have someone with route experience then I'd say ditch the guide and take it handy.  Solo, well thats your call, but I'd try the guide personally.

Brit and I skied the Valle Blanche last year  first time and unguided . Depends on the route..but the variation we skied...around the back of the Gros Rongon was very easy skiing. The only bit that required a little care was the last bit down to the Salle a Manger...but even that was easy.  Not scary a bit.
We chose a bluebird day with good visibility.... I wouldn't do it in bad viz as the views are what makes it such a classic.

We carried fully avy gear , crevasse rescue equipment and a rando rope.
Even solo..I'd have my harness on.

The arete walk is scary, especially when you are in the conga line with the pros sliding past on their boots at high speed and the tourists slipping..but it's pretty easy and like pulling off a band aid...just get it over with as fast as possible. Wear boot crampons...don't do it in just your boots. Others do but crampons make you feel far more secure.

There is virtually no route finding as you won't be the first....and the path is pretty well defined...there are usually moguls on the steep bit down to Salle a Manger. Once on the Mer de Glace..its a highway which as long as you follow the beaten path is very simple.

If I was solo, I'd probably wait at the bottom of the arete and see if a group would let me tag along....or else go stealth and closely follow what looked like a competent group, shadowing them.

Recently it's been a bit icy in the lower sections but the storms are coming in and by March it should be all filled in.

PNWBrit( Banned) and I are travelling to Courmayeur on Friday and planning on taking our ladies down the Valle Blanche next week...so I'll give you an update.

I spent a day at Les Arcs which was on a week tour from Val D Isere to Val Thornens with the Skiez 12 Vallees tour. The area is big and will fill days. Some of the longest runs in the Alps.

I have skied the Vallee Blanche twice. The first was a short trip that had us climb out on a steep ladder when the snow ended.  Years later, I took Jill and her friend and skied down to Chamonix with a healthy snow pack.

Scotsman comments are excellent. Jill and her friend found a couple of big guys who can afford to carry their skis along the upper walk area. I have read that on a busy weekend day  2,500 folks ski the route. Weekdays and early morning are the best or in the afternoon and move quickly.

Thanks everyone. I knew I'd get some good reply's. I'd love to see any updated. After seeing the picture of that many people packing down a narrow ridge I was planning of crampons! No way to ski it huh?

Only in the right conditions, and if no one is in the way.

I'd like to through the caveat out there that in poor weather, or valley fog, navigating the VB can be a real experience. In those conditions, hiring a guide could literally save your life (but I'm biased of course). And folks do die on that descent at a regular rate by crevasse falls. Even if you're skiing solo, you should wear a harness and carry a light rescue kit in case you need to help rescue someone else. And it is avalanche terrain.

But a guided day doesn't have to be with a group of unknowns, going down a trade route. If you're willing to consider the cost-benefit, consider hiring a guide for a private day of ski-guiding. Let them show you the best skiing for the conditions you have on that day. Include the VB if you really want, or not. There is a ton of awesome skiing to be had in Chamonix Valley - one of my favorite tours is across the valley on the Aguille Rouge. A day tour around the Aguille Argentierre is equally inspiring. If you're interested, I know several ex-pat American guides, IFMGA/UIAGM licensed, who live in Chamonix that I'd be happy to refer you to.

Here's your update.
We took the girls down the VB from the Italian side middle of last week. It has been stormy and snowy all week in Courmayuer but it suddenly blew in bluebird.

We took the tram from La Palud up to the top( Refugio Torino). From the top station there is a "cat track" over to the Col Flambeaux. We put the skins on for it and it was very pleasant although others booted( about 10 mins)
From the Col Flambeaux its a very mellow ski over the join the French route. There had been about 4 people ahead of us to we had hippy pow turns over to La Bediere at the junction with the French Route. Very easy skiing and the girls got their pow freak going.
The new snow had covered up all the icy sections down the skiers left side of the Seracs du Geant and the girls handled it with aplomb.
The traverse across the Salle a Manger was equally in good condition and the girls never felt threatened by the terrain.
The Mer de Glace was a bit icy and rocky in places and some base gouges occured.

We didn't take the train but hiked up the moraine and skied the " James Bond" trail back to Cham( very similar to Kelly's Gap road at Crystal)

My first time down from the Italian side and  most definitely an easier access for the girls that avoids the famous arete from the Midi.

We had perfect conditions and excellent visibility. PNWBrit( Banned) and I carried full crevasse rescue equipment and the girls wore harnesses. We had boot crampons but never used them. Skins were nice but not necessary for the climb to the Col Flambeaux.

As Chris S says...visibility is everything...choose your day.

Miles Smart is an Ex-pat guide I would recommend if you feel the need for a guide.
We hired him for a day last year and had an excellent tour in the Aguille Rouge.

Logistics: We parked our car at La Palud just up and right of the Tram station. In Cham we walked across the railway bridge to the bus station( 5 mins) and got the bus back to Courmayeur ( left Cham at 3:00 PM). From the bus station in Cour we waited about 10 mins and got a smaller bus up to La Palud and then hiked up the last bit of road to our parked car....very easy.
Tram was busy is the am and we got there early,8: 30 am and it takes awhile to get up to the top.

BE PREPARED for the steps from the top station to the exit. The have removed the elevator and you have to climb about 250 steep steps( inside) although they do take your skis up an adjacent elevator....but ..its a lot of steps with 20 or so enthusiastic skiers behind you all champing at the bit to get to the pow!!!

Only in the right conditions, and if no one is in the way.
If you're interested, I know several ex-pat American guides, IFMGA/UIAGM licensed, who live in Chamonix that I'd be happy to refer you to.

Wife might not let me go alone after all this bad avalanche action lately. Please PM contact info just in case. Thanks.

[quote author=Scotsman link=topic=3056

Miles Smart is an Ex-pat guide I would recommend if you feel the need for a guide.
We hired him for a day last year and had an excellent tour in the Aguille Rouge.

Is this a wall climber from Yosemite? I might have friends in common with him. Please PM me his info if you still have it.

Thanks for the detailed information!

Brian

Likely I'll be the only one without cojones to reply to this post, so consider the source.  Hire a guide and take your wife.  When do you think you or she will have another chance to ski the Vallee Blanche? Feel free to pm me if you need more "clarification". 

[quote author=Scotsman link=topic=3056

Miles Smart is an Ex-pat guide I would recommend if you feel the need for a guide.
We hired him for a day last year and had an excellent tour in the Aguille Rouge.

Is this a wall climber from Yosemite? I might have friends in common with him. Please PM me his info if you still have it.

Thanks for the detailed information!

Brian

/

Yes, he's a big waller.
Here's his website and contact information.
He knows Washington and our ski areas here well.
His wife is also a guide ....super people.

www.smartmountainguides.com