September 24-25, 2003, Glacier Peak

For my one-year climbing anniversary, I thought I would do something stupid.  How about climb the south side of Glacier Peak and ski down Sitkum?  Sounds fun, right?  I took of from the car late Wed morning. Very scenic route, Glacier Peak meadows and the White Chuck drainage are very colorful this time of year.  The White Chuck glacier is in sad shape right now, but would support some skiing on the parts that remain.  Likewise, the Suiattle could be worked a little by those who like to yo-yo.  Camped at about 8300' when it got dark.  Spent a lovely 12 hours at camp, and the wind was blowing the whole time.  In retrospect, I picked a stupid place to sleep, no protection from the wind at all.  Oh well, I'm still alive.  The climb up disappointment peak the next morning was a bit more exciting, lots of loose volcanic rock to fight through.  Thankfully it was a bit better intact near the top because I got myself into a place that required a couple low 5th class moves.  There has to be a better way up.  Anyways, nothing but a slog from there to the top.

The way down was a pain in spots.  The ridge above sitkum spire was windier than I can describe.  I almost couldn't walk down.  I'm guessing about 50mph sustained, with gusts up to who knows?  Skis on the back make that a pleasant experience.  And the upper sitkum is totally covered in rocks, dirt, and crevasses, except way off to the skiers left, which would have been hard to get to and was blocked by cracks way down low.  The lower sitkum wasn't as bad, so I tried skiing it.  Very icy, if you couldn't guess that already.  A few choice spots with some respectable turning, but not much.  I don't think my bases came out of that without scars.  Maybe about 500' of skiing that I could milk out of the trip.

So who else thinks that a >10,000' climb over >25mi is worth ~500' of skiing?  (besides Paul, that is)