June 28, 2003, Mt Adams, SW Chutes
6/28/03
WA Cascades West Slopes South (Mt Rainier)
3847
8
Left Seattle late Friday afternoon and made it to Trout Lake/Cold Springs by about 10:30 -- a longer drive than normal due to slow I-5 traffic and an even slower waitress in Morton. Just at sunset on Rd 23, we caught a wonderful glimpse of Adams in alpenglow and spotted the SW Chutes: an awesome sight. We were also awed by the number of cars at Cold Springs, but managed to squeeze into a remaining spot, threw down our bivy sacks and slept amidst the sounds of late arriving cars and early departing climbers clanking by.
Up at 4, off at 5, with a beautiful morning and the glow of Mt Hood and St Helens on the horizon. Within about 30 minutes, we reach consistent snow and continued in tennis shoes to about 6100' (note: we saw some hike to the summit in tennis shoes following easily in the boot track). After enjoying the solitude of skiing Sahale Arm two weeks ago, this was clearly going to be different sort of mountain experience -- a kind of social extravaganza with every sort of hiker, climber, skier, snowboarder and occasional dog making their way to the summit, spread in a remarkable view before us.
It was also going to be a hot day, but a cool breeze made for very comfortable climbing on firm snow. Bryan carried skis most of the way while I used ski crampons until the last steeper section, then the final traverse from the false to the true summit arriving at just after 10am. We enjoyed a remarkably clear day with spectatular views of the Goat Rocks, Rainier, and south to Jefferson and beyond. We lounged on the south side of the summit for about an hour out of the wind, enjoying the "scene" and steady march of climbers going by. With the firmness of the snow on the ascent, we also reasoned that we should wait for the SW slopes to soften.
Other skiers seemed to have the same idea, and at about 11am the click of boots into bindings awoke us. We gathered ourselves, donned our gear, and skied down to the false summit and the entrance of the SW chutes, encountering skiable, but not great conditions in the softening sastrugi.
The chutes themselves were altogether different: here the crowds disappeared, with one party hesitating at the entrance. Moving ahead, and into the first turns, we viewed no one, and below us 4000' of consistent 35 degree slopes in firm, corn snow conditions. This was no place to fall, but in near-perfect conditions from top to bottom, the turns came easily and confidently in what was undoubtably a great spring run. By the time we reached bottom, 2 other parties of 4 were with us, and we began eyeing our return route.
While not difficult, we crossed more basins than expected (maybe 6) in getting back to the main trail in roughly an hour, descending no lower than 6000' and requiring skis to be carried several times along the way.
We were back at the cars at 2pm, and home by 8. All in all a great trip for my first ski descent of Adams. As we looked at the mountain again from Rd 23, I noticed a nice glacier just to the West of SW chutes, which I believe was the Avalance-White Salmon. This might be an interesting ascent alternative to the standard route.
Up at 4, off at 5, with a beautiful morning and the glow of Mt Hood and St Helens on the horizon. Within about 30 minutes, we reach consistent snow and continued in tennis shoes to about 6100' (note: we saw some hike to the summit in tennis shoes following easily in the boot track). After enjoying the solitude of skiing Sahale Arm two weeks ago, this was clearly going to be different sort of mountain experience -- a kind of social extravaganza with every sort of hiker, climber, skier, snowboarder and occasional dog making their way to the summit, spread in a remarkable view before us.
It was also going to be a hot day, but a cool breeze made for very comfortable climbing on firm snow. Bryan carried skis most of the way while I used ski crampons until the last steeper section, then the final traverse from the false to the true summit arriving at just after 10am. We enjoyed a remarkably clear day with spectatular views of the Goat Rocks, Rainier, and south to Jefferson and beyond. We lounged on the south side of the summit for about an hour out of the wind, enjoying the "scene" and steady march of climbers going by. With the firmness of the snow on the ascent, we also reasoned that we should wait for the SW slopes to soften.
Other skiers seemed to have the same idea, and at about 11am the click of boots into bindings awoke us. We gathered ourselves, donned our gear, and skied down to the false summit and the entrance of the SW chutes, encountering skiable, but not great conditions in the softening sastrugi.
The chutes themselves were altogether different: here the crowds disappeared, with one party hesitating at the entrance. Moving ahead, and into the first turns, we viewed no one, and below us 4000' of consistent 35 degree slopes in firm, corn snow conditions. This was no place to fall, but in near-perfect conditions from top to bottom, the turns came easily and confidently in what was undoubtably a great spring run. By the time we reached bottom, 2 other parties of 4 were with us, and we began eyeing our return route.
While not difficult, we crossed more basins than expected (maybe 6) in getting back to the main trail in roughly an hour, descending no lower than 6000' and requiring skis to be carried several times along the way.
We were back at the cars at 2pm, and home by 8. All in all a great trip for my first ski descent of Adams. As we looked at the mountain again from Rd 23, I noticed a nice glacier just to the West of SW chutes, which I believe was the Avalance-White Salmon. This might be an interesting ascent alternative to the standard route.
Greg, Jim, John, and I did the same trip, just four hours behind you on the drive down, hike up, and ski down. We too found the skiing great, right from the top of the old hut on the summit, likewise took an hour to traverse back from the bottom of the SW chutes to the trail to Cold Springs.
Driving down later we avoided some of the traffic you describe, and we stopped just off FS road 23 to sleep quietly, then drove the final 1.5hrs into the circus of Cold Springs Campground following a giant Portland Mountain Rescue bus. Great route, and nice early evening view of it from Trout Lake on the way home. Greg will hopefully post photos soon.
Driving down later we avoided some of the traffic you describe, and we stopped just off FS road 23 to sleep quietly, then drove the final 1.5hrs into the circus of Cold Springs Campground following a giant Portland Mountain Rescue bus. Great route, and nice early evening view of it from Trout Lake on the way home. Greg will hopefully post photos soon.
Sounds like you had a great ski, Ron and I did the SW chutes last year when they were in excellent condition, and are looking forward to catching them again for another awsome ski. It's truly a great one, with lots of vertical. ;D
We also encountered the Portland Search and Rescue at the parking lot as we were getting ready to leave in the morning. Thought at first they might be a park ranger, fearing they were checking registration! Turns out, they were looking for a "disoriented" lost, young male (early twenties) who called from a cell phone, solo on the moutain the previous day. Circus is the right word. I'll remember to camp elsewhere next time.
In reference to the last paragraph of the first message in this thread, I descended the White Salmon-Avalanche Glaciers from the summit several years ago with Max Block and Lorna Hughes and ?. It was reasonable and worthy. Has anyone done it since the lahar activity on the Avalanche Glacier about 3 years ago?
Good report. I was slower than you- made it to the top of the chutes by 12:30. They were still very nice. It was my first time on the chutes and I was definitely impressed. I also enjoyed the 1st pitch from the summit.
What I'd like to know though: where the heck is the "Round the Mountain" trail? The bushwhacking in the heat wasn't pleasant.
What I'd like to know though: where the heck is the "Round the Mountain" trail? The bushwhacking in the heat wasn't pleasant.
It's kind of hard when the trail is buried, huh?
Silas, Greg, and I found that trail, partly by luck, within less than a quarter mile from the south climb route. We did a loooong downward trending traverse where we were mostly able to keep skis on (one short carry, and I think it will significantly more carries very soon as it melts out), and kept checking the altimeter to be sure we weren't too low, and finally Silas and Greg got to use their GPS's for what they were intended, and we found we had just crossed over it.
We were also following some other folks' tracks, but of course there were many forks where other parties had gone other ways, some of which were clearly NOT heading anywhere near the base of the South Climb.
Silas, Greg, and I found that trail, partly by luck, within less than a quarter mile from the south climb route. We did a loooong downward trending traverse where we were mostly able to keep skis on (one short carry, and I think it will significantly more carries very soon as it melts out), and kept checking the altimeter to be sure we weren't too low, and finally Silas and Greg got to use their GPS's for what they were intended, and we found we had just crossed over it.
We were also following some other folks' tracks, but of course there were many forks where other parties had gone other ways, some of which were clearly NOT heading anywhere near the base of the South Climb.
Thanks for the pics gregm.
We were on the false summit heading up just as the poor dog was leaving to descend. He didn't want to leave. We must've just missed your group heading down.
The guys with the dog were good folks.
We were on the false summit heading up just as the poor dog was leaving to descend. He didn't want to leave. We must've just missed your group heading down.
The guys with the dog were good folks.
Reply to this TR
Please login first: