June 11, 2003, Skyline Divide

Hey.  I live over in Spokane and I really want to get into backcountry hiking.  I got a pack, an Osprey Ceres 38-liter, and I'm thinking about going on a hike up to Chowder Ridge and Skyline Divide sometime between July 7th-11th.  I bought the book "100 Classic Backcountry Ski and Snowboard Routes (in Washington)", and it has Chowder Ridge listed as Intermediate.  From what I've read it seems like a pretty easy hike and I want to try it out.  I have driving and hiking directions from the book, but I'm trying to get as much info as I can about it.  If you could help me out and give me directions, tips, and anything else you want to add-in yourself, that would be awesome.  Since it's only a one day trip, we were planning on camping there and building a few jumps for a couple days.  It sounds like a blast and I can't wait.  So, e-mail me back asap at:   This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..  Thanks a lot.

I'll reply here along with an email so that others can see and comment on my response as well.  In case I make a mistake.

I hear that Chowder Ridge really was the primary objective in this area, via Cougar Divide.  However a few years ago when I first attempted to do CD, I was told at the ranger station that the road into that area was closed do to animal migration issues.  Burgdorfer's most recent book suggests that the road closure is to become permanent.  So the road slog may steer you away from that area, or maybe someone can comment on the use of bikes for that road.  Call ahead or check the FS web site to be sure.

From what I can tell from maps and from seeing over to CD from Skyline Divide, CD seems to be a shorter and easier access to the high areas immediately around Hadley Peak, including CD.  On the other hand CR is lower than SD during the early part of the journey.  Also, what I saw a couple of weeks ago was that you probably will need to travel farther south to hit consistent snow.

SD is a very short hike to the ridge summit and the snow was right there.  Depending on the amount of lateral traveling you want to do, you can find good descents from where the trail meets the ridge line or beyond for miles.  Plenty of camping potential, though I don't know of any official restrictions.

Alan

To correct my statement, I mixed up CR and CD and that paragragh should have read as follows:

From what I can tell from maps and from seeing over to CD from Skyline Divide, CD seems to be a shorter and easier access to the high areas immediately around Hadley Peak, including Chowder Ridge.  On the other hand CD is lower than SD during the early part of the journey.  Also, what I saw a couple of weeks ago was that you probably will need to travel farther south to hit consistent snow

Alan

I scrambled up Hadley Peak three summers ago from Chowder Ridge.  At that time, the road closure was only seasonal and it opened sometime in July I think.  Check the road report on the MBS National Forest webpage for updates, if that doesn't have the information, call the ranger station.

The road was long and very bumpy, but passable in my Ford Escort at very slow speeds.  The last 1/4 mile or so only a full 4WD could drive up, but there was a pull off for parking.  There isn't really a trail and expect a little, very minor brush amongst remnant trail.  Route finding is straight forward though.  This is a beautiful spot and holds snow well into the summer.

Thanks for all the input guys.  In the book, it gives the road directions.  Go on State Route #542, right on to Glacier Creek Road #39, and then left on Deadhorse Creek Road #37.  The book thens says that the trail climbs south through gladed forest for 2 miles, and then you break out of the forest onto an "expansive snowfield."  It then says to continue climbing and ski where you will.  Is it really that easy?  Or is there something else I need to know about this trail?

It's that easy.  Follow the trail where you can find it, or ridge where you can't.  In a few easy miles you break out of the trees onto a snowfield.  From there continue up to get a view of the area, pick your slope and enjoy.

Another thing...is there anywhere near there that I could do some fishing?  Also, if I cought one of those $5 one day permits form the ranger's office, would that work if I stayed for 3 days?  And do I have to buy one for each person in the group of just one for the group?  Can we camp there??!!

Don't know anything about fishing, but it sounds like you want to talk to the Glacier Ranger Station, 360 599-2714.  No lakes up there, and only small snowmelt streams.  There are definitely fish in the Nooksack North Fork below the waterfall.

IMO, Cougar Divide is a nicer way to access the Hadley Peak/Chowder Ridge area after the road opens July 1.  Skyline is more crowded, and unless you're going to ski the short shots near where you access the ridge, there's no real advantage.  On the other hand, sometimes there are boulders or windfall blocking the Cougar Divide road, and it can take a while (after July 1) for these to be cleared.   I've never needed four wheel drive to make it to the road's end, but it's true that I am notoriously abusive of vehicles (as well as other gear).  Do not trust the forest service to tell you anything useful about the condition of this road; they're the likely source of Burgdorfer's misinformation, and they've misinformed me on a number of occasions.  Drive on up and take a look.

There is good, intermediate and advanced terrain on Skyline Divide and Chowder Ridge.  Views and solitude (and skiing) are better the closer to Hadley Peak you get.  In case it's not already clear, Photomatt is referring to Skyline in his 6/30 post, but Cougar on 6/23.

Be prepared for blackflies whenever the sun is out and the breeze drops.

Enjoy,

Mark

How to do I approach the Trails differently if I want to ski via Cougar Divide?  Is there a map online and could you give me some pretty good directions?  I would drive up there, but I live about 350 miles away and I'm trying to get this all organized before I leave on Tuesday.

topozone.com has USGS maps and a well designed search engine to look at online maps.  The ranger station in Glacier sells maps.

I dunno about fishing, ask in Glacier.

Plan on carrying your skis for a bit to reach snow.

I've never been to Skyline divide, so can't give any info about accessing it.  The roads and trails for the two approaches are different.  The $5/day parking pass is per car, but as far as I know, the Cougar Divide entrance isn't a trailhead (does not have a maintained trail) so you don't need a parking pass.  There is plenty of valley camping along the highway, some National Forest campgrounds.  A camp on Chowder ridge would be very scenic.. you'd probably be able to find running water from a snowfield, otherwise you can melt snow for drinking water.  A good plan would be to get as much current info from the ranger in Glacier (taken with caution), drive up towards Cougar Divide.  If the road is blocked by rocks or trees, turn around and drive up to Skyline.

Good luck and enjoy your trip.  It's a pretty spot.