October 13-14, 2007, Eldorado Peak, East Ridge
10/13/07
WA Cascades West Slopes North (Mt Baker)
13685
21
ELDORADO PEAK - East Ridge
I spent all night working on this. Ha. My monkey suit is still on! Hopefully it all makes sense and you guys enjoy.
Every weekend is a fascination for me. How can I make it better? What new adventure is there? Oft, I feel like sitting one out but rarely is it that I regret shrugging my heavy pack on, skipping a nights rest, and heading out into the hills. After this weekend, another perfect-fascinating weekend, how could I ever complain about my life? I am too lucky. Life is too good. And¦this weekend, a celebration of sorts My BIRTHDAY. Mother nature herself came out to visit me in the most wondrous of ways, with a blue colored dress laced with white streaks and a pearl of yellow on her crown. I couldnt have been more thrilled!
Beginning as beginnings are apt to be when it comes to alpine starts begin well before dawn with Christy, Josh and I meeting Phil and Sam just outside Seattle. It was 3 a.m. I was laid out in the back of the car forming dreams of a perfect weekend that hadnt even cast its shadow down these car-light washed highways or star-lit heavens. These dreams of powder hidden behind tall peaks and corn laid smooth on glaciers stretching all the way to the valley bottoms left me seeking sleep instead of reality. I was tired and the hike up would be anything but joyous.
Another would-be ski-mountaineer errant met us at mile 20 on Cascade River Road. Tony was armed with a video camera and began filming what I am sure will illuminate many on my lack of acting skills and poor thought out quotes. Even then, near 6 a.m. I was attempting to think of something stupid to say.
The climb for the day was ELDORADO PEAK whose classic East Ridge can be picked out from dozens of peaks. Its characteristic summit block provides a temping slope for a skier, but surely not temping are the four thousand feet of boulders and steep forest to get to snow, let alone to the top of the peak which stands at 8876-ft. Right then, at the parking lot, we are at 2160-ft. One benefit for us was a log perfectly situated to get us across the river to the steep climbers trail. It doesnt mess around. Still dark, I say at one point to Christy, What a beautiful day, to which she responds, What DAY, it is still DARK. I think that she is still getting used to this hiking-for-skiing business. I tell her, It will be worth it. You always forget this part.
Soon the trail meanders into a boulder field where the right-hand side makes for the easiest way up. We missed that of course. Boulder fields led to Vine-Maple and Alpine Fir trees speckling the slope along with berry bushes and yellowed grass. Fall, cut short by early snow, was not lost here. Colors cast a vivid spectrum throughout this altitude and the air waft of fall smells. I LOVE this time of year.
Blue berries still clung to bushes even as snow threatened to bury them. We left our shoes next to large rocks and continued upward in deepening snow. Eventually we changed to skins and the weight of both boots and skis off the back was thanked for, maybe not in words, but sighs of relief surely.
Rock slabs and steep slopes lead to a pass near the six thousand foot level. We donned the skis again and dropped into Roush Basin below the Eldorado Glacier. This was a pain due to a few inches of break away snow on slippery rock slabs. Time wasted was further consumed on the boulder field below. Sometime later we finally reached consistent snow and last dibs on water. We all raced up the glacier to camp at the 7500-ft level. Clouds that had earlier emerged all but disappeared and with food in us and camp set up, it was time to get our reward, a climb of Eldorado.
I am surprised sometimes by the stark contrast of the valleys and the cities that fill them, to the glaciers and mountain tops that crown the North Cascades. I often tell others of my exploits and they ask, Where did you find snow? Or, What ski resorts are open? So few understand the true beauty that can be found with effort, and kids these days seem so obsessed with easy (fast food and video games) and I think parents are to blame. What is good takes effort. It takes suffering. All good things in life do. That is why I think the mountains are good for people.
What was hoped to be good for us turned out to be jaw dropping. At a leisurely pace we wrapped around to the East Ridge and began our climb up. Views of Klawatti, Toment, Forbidden and Tepeh Towers where fantastic, but what held me longest was Moraine Lake and Sahale set aglow by the pinkish light of sunset.
The final summit climb was left to Chrisy, Josh, Tony and I to finish. Sam and Phil had climbed several times before and wished to get down before darkness hit. What temptation I had was shrugged off, above me was the top and a night ski was looked forward upon rather than feared. The day was so calm; it felt like I was somewhere else other than a mountain?
The summit arête was angelical, the soft snow flooded with light and the hard ice of the other side, dark. Josh led the way to the summit and I took photos. A story he later told was hilarious. There he was mere feet from the top and with him, a spider. This little beast skittered across the snow at such an egregious pace, Josh was left stumbling behind, second to the top, behind the spider.
We all took turns spinning our heads in every direction and I think that Christy was just then forgetting that days efforts. I took a photo of Josh and her both can been seen with rather large smiles.
The ski down was less than memorable, except for the top where nice snow was hidden from that days warmth. The rest was icy. We made it back to camp in the dark, stars already pinpricking the dark veil above. The others were cooking and eating and we were jealous. I decided then to try my hand once more at night photography. This time I set a 36 minute exposure at f3.2 using the long-exposure feature in the camera settings. The Big Dipper was situated right over Eldorado, so bright I felt like I was sitting amongst them. The shot was beautiful, but had a red cast that my camera appears to add. I took another shot that ran until the battery died. It was sharper, but also had the red cast. Further reading will tell me if this is common place or if I just made a mistake. At that point I was too tired to try another.
In the morning I slept in, my sunrise missed but the tiredness of the day before dissipated, thankfully. That morning, the 14th, now my birthday, required reward, so I strapped on my back and headed for the top of a small peak Id had my eyes on. Phil was the only other heading out so I chased him down, but he was not interested and thought it was too icy. So be it, icy or not an early summit was going to be my present.
The climb up was crampon and whippets, never too steep but exposed and surely, as Phil had guessed, icy. A fall would be unwise. I stood on the summit and just sat there, casting my eyes at views made more precious by my seeing them alone. The small snowy bit at the top was too dangerous to stand on for a breeze could knock you off balance and a tall cliff would happily fly by as you fell. I wasnt looking to be the glaciers breakfast so after a time I sat just below.
Copious sidestepping and a few turns brought me down the face to where Sam was waiting. We took some turns down towards Moraine Lake on softening corn before climbing up. Once back at camp, breakfast was served and not long after, camp was packed and we were leaving.
Down at the bottom of the glacier, we dropped our packs and climbed back up twice. The turns had were the best of the trip! We were all sad to have to leave and, none of us, surely, wanted to go back down to the car just yet. The day was so warm, but end it must. Later, from the pass, I caught one last view and I knew Id be back. Next time itd be for several days and many more peaks would be on the schedule. Until then, I had a great birthday. Mother Nature knows how to take care of the faithful. Although, if she looks too close, she may see me cursing her whenever the weekend forecast is warm and rainy.
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More Photos: http://cascadecrusades.org/SkiMountaineering/eldorado/eastridge2007/eldooct2007.htm
Poem Lyrics of Eldorado By Edgar Allan Poe
Gaily bedight,
A gallant knight,
In sunshine and in shadow,
Had journeyed long,
Singing a song,
In search of Eldorado.
But he grew old
This knight so bold
And o'er his heart a shadow
Fell as he Found
No spot of ground
That looked like Eldorado
And, as his strength
Failed him at length,
He met a pilgrim shadow
"Shadow," said he,
Where can it be
This land of Eldorado
"Over the Mountains
Of the moon,
Down the Valley of the Shadow,
Ride, boldly ride,"
The shade replied
"If you seek for Eldorado!"
I spent all night working on this. Ha. My monkey suit is still on! Hopefully it all makes sense and you guys enjoy.
Every weekend is a fascination for me. How can I make it better? What new adventure is there? Oft, I feel like sitting one out but rarely is it that I regret shrugging my heavy pack on, skipping a nights rest, and heading out into the hills. After this weekend, another perfect-fascinating weekend, how could I ever complain about my life? I am too lucky. Life is too good. And¦this weekend, a celebration of sorts My BIRTHDAY. Mother nature herself came out to visit me in the most wondrous of ways, with a blue colored dress laced with white streaks and a pearl of yellow on her crown. I couldnt have been more thrilled!
Beginning as beginnings are apt to be when it comes to alpine starts begin well before dawn with Christy, Josh and I meeting Phil and Sam just outside Seattle. It was 3 a.m. I was laid out in the back of the car forming dreams of a perfect weekend that hadnt even cast its shadow down these car-light washed highways or star-lit heavens. These dreams of powder hidden behind tall peaks and corn laid smooth on glaciers stretching all the way to the valley bottoms left me seeking sleep instead of reality. I was tired and the hike up would be anything but joyous.
Another would-be ski-mountaineer errant met us at mile 20 on Cascade River Road. Tony was armed with a video camera and began filming what I am sure will illuminate many on my lack of acting skills and poor thought out quotes. Even then, near 6 a.m. I was attempting to think of something stupid to say.
The climb for the day was ELDORADO PEAK whose classic East Ridge can be picked out from dozens of peaks. Its characteristic summit block provides a temping slope for a skier, but surely not temping are the four thousand feet of boulders and steep forest to get to snow, let alone to the top of the peak which stands at 8876-ft. Right then, at the parking lot, we are at 2160-ft. One benefit for us was a log perfectly situated to get us across the river to the steep climbers trail. It doesnt mess around. Still dark, I say at one point to Christy, What a beautiful day, to which she responds, What DAY, it is still DARK. I think that she is still getting used to this hiking-for-skiing business. I tell her, It will be worth it. You always forget this part.
Soon the trail meanders into a boulder field where the right-hand side makes for the easiest way up. We missed that of course. Boulder fields led to Vine-Maple and Alpine Fir trees speckling the slope along with berry bushes and yellowed grass. Fall, cut short by early snow, was not lost here. Colors cast a vivid spectrum throughout this altitude and the air waft of fall smells. I LOVE this time of year.
Blue berries still clung to bushes even as snow threatened to bury them. We left our shoes next to large rocks and continued upward in deepening snow. Eventually we changed to skins and the weight of both boots and skis off the back was thanked for, maybe not in words, but sighs of relief surely.
Rock slabs and steep slopes lead to a pass near the six thousand foot level. We donned the skis again and dropped into Roush Basin below the Eldorado Glacier. This was a pain due to a few inches of break away snow on slippery rock slabs. Time wasted was further consumed on the boulder field below. Sometime later we finally reached consistent snow and last dibs on water. We all raced up the glacier to camp at the 7500-ft level. Clouds that had earlier emerged all but disappeared and with food in us and camp set up, it was time to get our reward, a climb of Eldorado.
I am surprised sometimes by the stark contrast of the valleys and the cities that fill them, to the glaciers and mountain tops that crown the North Cascades. I often tell others of my exploits and they ask, Where did you find snow? Or, What ski resorts are open? So few understand the true beauty that can be found with effort, and kids these days seem so obsessed with easy (fast food and video games) and I think parents are to blame. What is good takes effort. It takes suffering. All good things in life do. That is why I think the mountains are good for people.
What was hoped to be good for us turned out to be jaw dropping. At a leisurely pace we wrapped around to the East Ridge and began our climb up. Views of Klawatti, Toment, Forbidden and Tepeh Towers where fantastic, but what held me longest was Moraine Lake and Sahale set aglow by the pinkish light of sunset.
The final summit climb was left to Chrisy, Josh, Tony and I to finish. Sam and Phil had climbed several times before and wished to get down before darkness hit. What temptation I had was shrugged off, above me was the top and a night ski was looked forward upon rather than feared. The day was so calm; it felt like I was somewhere else other than a mountain?
The summit arête was angelical, the soft snow flooded with light and the hard ice of the other side, dark. Josh led the way to the summit and I took photos. A story he later told was hilarious. There he was mere feet from the top and with him, a spider. This little beast skittered across the snow at such an egregious pace, Josh was left stumbling behind, second to the top, behind the spider.
We all took turns spinning our heads in every direction and I think that Christy was just then forgetting that days efforts. I took a photo of Josh and her both can been seen with rather large smiles.
The ski down was less than memorable, except for the top where nice snow was hidden from that days warmth. The rest was icy. We made it back to camp in the dark, stars already pinpricking the dark veil above. The others were cooking and eating and we were jealous. I decided then to try my hand once more at night photography. This time I set a 36 minute exposure at f3.2 using the long-exposure feature in the camera settings. The Big Dipper was situated right over Eldorado, so bright I felt like I was sitting amongst them. The shot was beautiful, but had a red cast that my camera appears to add. I took another shot that ran until the battery died. It was sharper, but also had the red cast. Further reading will tell me if this is common place or if I just made a mistake. At that point I was too tired to try another.
In the morning I slept in, my sunrise missed but the tiredness of the day before dissipated, thankfully. That morning, the 14th, now my birthday, required reward, so I strapped on my back and headed for the top of a small peak Id had my eyes on. Phil was the only other heading out so I chased him down, but he was not interested and thought it was too icy. So be it, icy or not an early summit was going to be my present.
The climb up was crampon and whippets, never too steep but exposed and surely, as Phil had guessed, icy. A fall would be unwise. I stood on the summit and just sat there, casting my eyes at views made more precious by my seeing them alone. The small snowy bit at the top was too dangerous to stand on for a breeze could knock you off balance and a tall cliff would happily fly by as you fell. I wasnt looking to be the glaciers breakfast so after a time I sat just below.
Copious sidestepping and a few turns brought me down the face to where Sam was waiting. We took some turns down towards Moraine Lake on softening corn before climbing up. Once back at camp, breakfast was served and not long after, camp was packed and we were leaving.
Down at the bottom of the glacier, we dropped our packs and climbed back up twice. The turns had were the best of the trip! We were all sad to have to leave and, none of us, surely, wanted to go back down to the car just yet. The day was so warm, but end it must. Later, from the pass, I caught one last view and I knew Id be back. Next time itd be for several days and many more peaks would be on the schedule. Until then, I had a great birthday. Mother Nature knows how to take care of the faithful. Although, if she looks too close, she may see me cursing her whenever the weekend forecast is warm and rainy.
[url=http://cascadecrusades.org/SkiMountaineering/eldorado/eastridge2007/DSC_3154.jpg]
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[/url]More Photos: http://cascadecrusades.org/SkiMountaineering/eldorado/eastridge2007/eldooct2007.htm
Poem Lyrics of Eldorado By Edgar Allan Poe
Gaily bedight,
A gallant knight,
In sunshine and in shadow,
Had journeyed long,
Singing a song,
In search of Eldorado.
But he grew old
This knight so bold
And o'er his heart a shadow
Fell as he Found
No spot of ground
That looked like Eldorado
And, as his strength
Failed him at length,
He met a pilgrim shadow
"Shadow," said he,
Where can it be
This land of Eldorado
"Over the Mountains
Of the moon,
Down the Valley of the Shadow,
Ride, boldly ride,"
The shade replied
"If you seek for Eldorado!"
Killer write-up. The long exposure of eldo is amazing. So is the alpenglow in Moraine lake. Way to get it. I'm jealous I didn't have an epic this weekend.
Truly wonderful, Happy Birthday!!
When I saw the subject of your post, and thought back on the weekend's weather, I knew I'd be jealous... and I am. :) I can't wait to head in there myself after the low level and crevasse-bridging snowpack grows thicker.
Your photos are great as usual! As for the reddish cast to your night-time photos, you might want to try taking a 30 minute exposure with a lens cap on and the camera in a dark box- the result should be educational (though I know not whether you'll see the cast or not). Since the brightest parts of the cast come at the skyline (and more on the western side of the image), the light may well be light pollution from Tacomeattleham. If it is a CCD issue, it's possible you'd be able to defeat the dark current noise by taking a number of ~1-2s exposures and stacking them.
Your photos are great as usual! As for the reddish cast to your night-time photos, you might want to try taking a 30 minute exposure with a lens cap on and the camera in a dark box- the result should be educational (though I know not whether you'll see the cast or not). Since the brightest parts of the cast come at the skyline (and more on the western side of the image), the light may well be light pollution from Tacomeattleham. If it is a CCD issue, it's possible you'd be able to defeat the dark current noise by taking a number of ~1-2s exposures and stacking them.
Beautiful photos!! The alpenglow looks like fire! Looks like a great way to spend your BD! Weather is looking great up in the mountains...
That long exposure shot is ahhh-some! Nice TR!
Great shots and thanks for sharing both them and the report.
I seem to recall something from the Nikon manual about an accessory - something along the lines of a black cap for the viewfinder that is meant to be used for long exposures. I also need to go back and re-read to see if my memory is right, as I got some strange cast from long night shots as well.
I seem to recall something from the Nikon manual about an accessory - something along the lines of a black cap for the viewfinder that is meant to be used for long exposures. I also need to go back and re-read to see if my memory is right, as I got some strange cast from long night shots as well.
Thanks guys, I'm glad that my efforts putting this story together were enjoyed.
Trumpet, I'll have to try that out. From what I've found out, digital just isn't that good at night photography. I think canons are better with it. It's so dang hard when your climbing too. With that much effort, having something that's right really makes you want to try again, but hey, what comes easy isn't as enjoyed as what comes hard. I'll get this down eventually.
Jim, maybe there is something else. I should have tried some shorter exposures to see what would've happened. The views were so cool, and I've had a little more practice with the shorter stuff. Those would've looked much more true to life.
Trumpet, I'll have to try that out. From what I've found out, digital just isn't that good at night photography. I think canons are better with it. It's so dang hard when your climbing too. With that much effort, having something that's right really makes you want to try again, but hey, what comes easy isn't as enjoyed as what comes hard. I'll get this down eventually.
Jim, maybe there is something else. I should have tried some shorter exposures to see what would've happened. The views were so cool, and I've had a little more practice with the shorter stuff. Those would've looked much more true to life.
Great report and pics Jason. Thanks for putting it out there. I think we may have seen you guys coming out Sunday night at dusk at the Eldorado TH parking area. If so, sorry we didn't stop to chat, but we ready to get home. We climbed and skied Sahale on Sunday. What a great fall day to be out!
Paul
Paul
Hey Jason,
Once again you've posted an extraordinary report. I really like your long exposure night shots. The multi-color stars are cool, almost unreal. Is that night shot raw or enhanced? Thanks for posting. Zeno
Once again you've posted an extraordinary report. I really like your long exposure night shots. The multi-color stars are cool, almost unreal. Is that night shot raw or enhanced? Thanks for posting. Zeno
Trips like that, and the ensuing trip reports, don't get any better!
Stimbuck
Stimbuck
Very nice Jason! Beautiful photos and inspiring prose to motivate adventures!
Great TR and photos!
As for the long exposures, a friend has complained to Nikon about the pink cast in the corner of the frame, and they basically admitted that it's a 'feature' that pops up in long exposures... a light leak, actually.
The slightly yellow background is city light glow. Yes, it's present even at Eldorado :)
As for the long exposures, a friend has complained to Nikon about the pink cast in the corner of the frame, and they basically admitted that it's a 'feature' that pops up in long exposures... a light leak, actually.
The slightly yellow background is city light glow. Yes, it's present even at Eldorado :)
Nice work!!! Eldorado is pretty far west in that valley so I could see that being light pollution ....as you were probably facing W to NW when you took that?
author=Paul_Russell link=topic=7961.msg31845#msg31845 date=1192679217]
Great report and pics Jason. Thanks for putting it out there. I think we may have seen you guys coming out Sunday night at dusk at the Eldorado TH parking area. If so, sorry we didn't stop to chat, but we ready to get home. We climbed and skied Sahale on Sunday. What a great fall day to be out!
Paul
Hey Paul,
I thought that was you! I didn't think that was your Subaru, though. I almost walked over and chatted you guys up about where you skied, but that was just as we were getting anxious about Josh and Christy still not being out of the woods yet. I think it was just as they did that you guys drove off. Did you guys ski the Qien Sabe? That sure looked good from our vantage point.
Hey Sam,
Yeah, sorry we didn't get a chance to chat. We skied the Sahale Gl going up from Cascade Pass, but imagine the Quien Sabe would have been great looking at your pic. I have a new Subaru, so you wouldn't have recognized it. That was some rig you guys were driving! Let's get out soon now that the snow is flying.
Paul
Yeah, sorry we didn't get a chance to chat. We skied the Sahale Gl going up from Cascade Pass, but imagine the Quien Sabe would have been great looking at your pic. I have a new Subaru, so you wouldn't have recognized it. That was some rig you guys were driving! Let's get out soon now that the snow is flying.
Paul
author=zenom link=topic=7961.msg31850#msg31850 date=1192682103]
Hey Jason,
Once again you've posted an extraordinary report. I really like your long exposure night shots. The multi-color stars are cool, almost unreal. Is that night shot raw or enhanced? Thanks for posting. Zeno
I normally shoot in Raw (the last 6 months or so), but this time couldn't because I brought my smaller card (bummer). The picture has some photoshop work. The original is darker and more redish.
Awesome job, great write-up, great pics, and great video! Happy Birthday Jason and Josh! What a great way to spend your weekend!
Fantastic TR.
Now for the question. I'm looking to climb Eldorado this weekend (weather window is thur, fri, sat) Looking online I can't get any good info on where off the cascade river road the trail for Eldorado begins, it's important because it looks like the Cascade river road is closed at mile 20.
Any help would be appreciated.
Cheers,
Brandon
Now for the question. I'm looking to climb Eldorado this weekend (weather window is thur, fri, sat) Looking online I can't get any good info on where off the cascade river road the trail for Eldorado begins, it's important because it looks like the Cascade river road is closed at mile 20.
Any help would be appreciated.
Cheers,
Brandon
Park at mile 20, go back down the road (away from the gate a few hundred feet) to where the river comes close to the road. There is a log there - cross it to a gravel bar. There is another log in front of that - cross it also and follow it to the very end. The trail begins right off the end of the fallen tree.
Anyhow, from there, the trail rises steeply.
Anyhow, from there, the trail rises steeply.
For those interested in night photography, there is a piece on this guys site for the nikon d200: http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/d200/d200-long.htm
Why my night shot had the red glow is because I didn't allow the camera to take the dark frame (using long exposure NR) which is a second shot that takes as long as the primary exposure. I'll give this a try when more snow falls and I have time.
Why my night shot had the red glow is because I didn't allow the camera to take the dark frame (using long exposure NR) which is a second shot that takes as long as the primary exposure. I'll give this a try when more snow falls and I have time.
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