July 26-28, Mt Robson, Kain face

I only have time for a quick crappy TR, but Ryan, me, and Sky ventured up to Canada for a few days of fun and expensive gas and beer.Robson Provincial park is about 800 miles from seattle by the route we took. It took us most of the day to get up there, thankfully with little hassle at the border.
The next day we hiked the twenty miles up to our campsite near exstinguir rock beside the Robson glacier (massive broken glacier), the approach envolved bueatifull vistas, circleing most of the way around the mountain, and an interseting creek crossing, (wich in hindsight could have been avoided).
On the 27th we set out at a reasonable hour with the intention of negotiating the Heavily crevassed and undulating Robson glacier, up over a col, and then up the North face, which was the route we had planned for. The glaciar proved to be complex, and very broken, which slowed us down a little as we did  not know the "standard and direct route" feeling our way up the glacier we decided to go direct and climb the north side of the Dome. The north side of the Dome was a very fun climb, starting with 45dg snow (and some bergshund crossings) which steepened as we went higher. The top of this was about ~150'? of 60-65dg wet alpine ice wich we free climbed. From the top of the Dome we we were not to far from the bottom of the Kain face.  We charged the Kain face and were up farily quickly to our highpoint of ~11700, had a drink then clicked into our skiis. The face was ~50dg and about 1600' the snow was interesting and a little scary as it was about 6" of loose wet grains over various crusts, and ice in places, this 6" surface did not hesitate to sluff, with every turn we sent off a sluff which grew to very large size at the bottom of the face and beyond. because of this sluff we could not open up and rip the face, instead we took carefull turns, praticing sluff managment. A little shrund hop at the bottom.  Not wanting to mess around with raps, (although we did have two ropes)  we scoped a reasonable alternate route back to camp and traversed a little, then got to ski another ~1500 steep slope with a little better snow conditions, and another shrund at the bottom (which i misjudged the landing and ate shit) then great skiing if not slushy all the way back to camp, makeing for a total ski of ~4600 feet. More stunning and touching senery. The next morning we made an epic descent of a 400' patch on estinguisher rock, then the 20mile deproach which took just under 8hours with plenty of breaks.
Canada is a great country with very friendly people, never ending mountains, true wilderness. We were greeted with a short truck search as we crossed the border to the states, great trip. It is hard to leave such a place without a plan to come back.