July 9-10, 2007, Mt. Shuksan, North Face
7/9/07
WA Cascades West Slopes North (Mt Baker)
2966
2
Got on Shuksan for the first time. Or, maybe the second if you count Nooksack Tower. But, still haven't been to the summit.
Botched the approach pretty royally. Ended up in a low level of valley bottom alder hell. Had a smoother deproach. Neglible snow down in the White Salmon valley.
The face itself didn't set-up much overnight due to high freezing levels and a strong warm east wind. The wind was strong enough at night to blow the waterfalls dropping down into Price basin back up over the ridge where it would come down onto my bivy like rain. On the climb up, it was easy step kicking. Yummy steps that sink a few inches each step up.
Lower portion of the face was runnelled by some older wet slide activity. A few traces of more recent activity, but the runnels themselves were pretty suncupped. Cracks were well bridged.
The gulley linking the lower and upper faces wasn't 'schrunded, yet... This seems like it won't take a lot of heat to make this more interesting.
The upper face was beautiful. A few icy surface patches, but these were easily avoided by moving 10 feet one side.
Topped out the face, headed over to the Hanging/Crystal glacier col then turned back for the descent. Started down the face at 7am, wouldn't have wanted to wait any longer. Love the way this starts with minimal warm up. Pics from afar always make the top look like it'll ease you into it the way it rounds over, but its pretty game-on from the first turns.
Should be good for a couple weeks or so, heat depending.
Was having camera battery issues so pics are somewhat limited.
More pics over on Flickr.
http://flickr.com/photos/nickpope/sets/72157600780926862
North Face from the White Salmon-Price divide.
Gulley linking lower and upper faces.
Climbing the upper face.
Botched the approach pretty royally. Ended up in a low level of valley bottom alder hell. Had a smoother deproach. Neglible snow down in the White Salmon valley.
The face itself didn't set-up much overnight due to high freezing levels and a strong warm east wind. The wind was strong enough at night to blow the waterfalls dropping down into Price basin back up over the ridge where it would come down onto my bivy like rain. On the climb up, it was easy step kicking. Yummy steps that sink a few inches each step up.
Lower portion of the face was runnelled by some older wet slide activity. A few traces of more recent activity, but the runnels themselves were pretty suncupped. Cracks were well bridged.
The gulley linking the lower and upper faces wasn't 'schrunded, yet... This seems like it won't take a lot of heat to make this more interesting.
The upper face was beautiful. A few icy surface patches, but these were easily avoided by moving 10 feet one side.
Topped out the face, headed over to the Hanging/Crystal glacier col then turned back for the descent. Started down the face at 7am, wouldn't have wanted to wait any longer. Love the way this starts with minimal warm up. Pics from afar always make the top look like it'll ease you into it the way it rounds over, but its pretty game-on from the first turns.
Should be good for a couple weeks or so, heat depending.
Was having camera battery issues so pics are somewhat limited.
More pics over on Flickr.
http://flickr.com/photos/nickpope/sets/72157600780926862
North Face from the White Salmon-Price divide.
Gulley linking lower and upper faces.
Climbing the upper face.
Pretty game on, indeed. I love that line. Don't you just love the feeling that you could point 'em and splash into Price Lake?
Good work, esp. for bustin' the brush with the skis on the pack!
Nice shots over at Flickr.
Nice shots over at Flickr.
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