May 25-26, 2003, Ingalls country, Memorial Day
5/25/03
WA Cascades East Slopes Central
3679
5
My brother Carl and I drove to the Esmerelda trailhead on Sunday and parked below the "Entering Fee Area" sign since we didn't have a pass. As we were packing we saw a paraglider fly from Long's Pass. We met the pilot at the parking lot, a friend of mine from Wenatchee who's been flying paragliders longer than just about anybody in the state. He'd been skiing with friends that morning near the pass and said the snow was excellent.
We skied to Long's Pass and set up our tent at a scenic spot nearby. We decided to make an afternoon tour toward Ingalls Peak. We meandered along the divide past Ingalls Pass and crossed the upper basin to the South peak of Ingalls, skinning most of the way to the top except for a short exposed snow crest. The snow was surprisingly consolidated and we had nice skiing back into the basin SE of the peak.
On Monday morning we turned to our main objective, Ulrich's couloir on Mt Stuart. High clouds were moving in and we considered turning back on the climb since the snow might not soften. But around 11 am the clouds dissolved to blue skies. We reached the summit after noon and waved to a party climbing the final pitches of the West Ridge.
Around 2 pm we started skiing down. The very top was steep and required great care, but most of Ulrich's couloir is not uncomfortably steep. Conditions varied from good corn to grabby snow to avalanche chunks and back. Generally the skiing was good and we had fun taking pictures. By working west out of the lower couloir we were able to ski all the way to Ingalls Creek with just two short rock crossings (where we stubbornly kept our skis on) and forty feet of sidestepping on dirt.
We found an all-snow route back to Long's pass, a bench that goes from upper Ingalls Creek toward the basin below the pass at around 5400 feet. So except for a ski-pole vault over the creek, we were able to ski all the way from the summit back to camp. The Cascadian couloir route had much less coverage and I bet Ulrich's will be spotty in a week. As a rule, I think the opening of the road to the Esmerelda trailhead means the skiability of Mt Stuart's south side is just about over.
We skied to Long's Pass and set up our tent at a scenic spot nearby. We decided to make an afternoon tour toward Ingalls Peak. We meandered along the divide past Ingalls Pass and crossed the upper basin to the South peak of Ingalls, skinning most of the way to the top except for a short exposed snow crest. The snow was surprisingly consolidated and we had nice skiing back into the basin SE of the peak.
On Monday morning we turned to our main objective, Ulrich's couloir on Mt Stuart. High clouds were moving in and we considered turning back on the climb since the snow might not soften. But around 11 am the clouds dissolved to blue skies. We reached the summit after noon and waved to a party climbing the final pitches of the West Ridge.
Around 2 pm we started skiing down. The very top was steep and required great care, but most of Ulrich's couloir is not uncomfortably steep. Conditions varied from good corn to grabby snow to avalanche chunks and back. Generally the skiing was good and we had fun taking pictures. By working west out of the lower couloir we were able to ski all the way to Ingalls Creek with just two short rock crossings (where we stubbornly kept our skis on) and forty feet of sidestepping on dirt.
We found an all-snow route back to Long's pass, a bench that goes from upper Ingalls Creek toward the basin below the pass at around 5400 feet. So except for a ski-pole vault over the creek, we were able to ski all the way from the summit back to camp. The Cascadian couloir route had much less coverage and I bet Ulrich's will be spotty in a week. As a rule, I think the opening of the road to the Esmerelda trailhead means the skiability of Mt Stuart's south side is just about over.
Great report, Lowell.
Congratulations to you both on a big run! Did you climb Ulrich's or the Cascadian? I've only been on Stuart August-September, so I am curious as how you skied off the summit? That terrain without snow makes it hard for me to imagine how it's best done. Did you run the summit-false summit ridge top towards the false summit, traverse that ridge's R hand side (scramble route) towards the false summit, or descend directly towards Ulrich's (very steep)?
Congratulations to you both on a big run! Did you climb Ulrich's or the Cascadian? I've only been on Stuart August-September, so I am curious as how you skied off the summit? That terrain without snow makes it hard for me to imagine how it's best done. Did you run the summit-false summit ridge top towards the false summit, traverse that ridge's R hand side (scramble route) towards the false summit, or descend directly towards Ulrich's (very steep)?
We climbed Ulrich's to check out the route and conditions.
The summit itself was a gently inclined snow plane. About 50 feet east of the summit there was a short steep "roll-off" that was probably 50+ degrees but only about 20 feet high. We did a forward slideslip down that with arrest grips at the ready. It wasn't necessary to make a turn there. Once past that we dropped straight into the couloir. Although we didn't measure the angle, I'd guess the upper couloir was less than 45 degrees. Most of the couloir was probably less than 40 degrees and felt quite comfortable. Good snow conditions are key. With hard snow you wouldn't want to ski any of it but with softened snow it was reasonable.
Guess that's why it took until 1990 for the 1st reported descent of it - the intimidation of the initial turns? Sky, Cory and I skied Cascadian Couloir on the 18th. It was cloudy up top, but Sky and Cory linked some turns up high on Ulrich's before having to traverse over to the false summit.
Lowell - I attempted to send an e-mail to you from your website, but it was returned to me undeliverable. I had some questions/input on the Park Glacier headwall on Baker.
Lowell - I attempted to send an e-mail to you from your website, but it was returned to me undeliverable. I had some questions/input on the Park Glacier headwall on Baker.
It's interesting to read Scott Wicklund's article in the Jan 1991 issue of NW Skier. His party did the descent in early May. (Better snow coverage in the couloir but harder access.) They skied the route on their fourth day out after two days of approach and a third day when they decided to bivi on the mountain due to avalanche hazard. They used full alpine gear. They climbed the Cascadian Couloir and descended Ulrich's, making a rappel at the lower waterfall (which we avoided).
Assuming that they did the first descent (and I think they did) their success came from wanting it more than anybody else at the time. They were willing to haul heavy gear in there before the road opened for the season and just work a lot harder than we now have to (with our better gear and knowledge). Interestingly, I believe they just barely beat another party to it (Sprague Ackley and Hope Barnes), based on a rumor I heard from a friend at the time.
David - I've received lots of e-mail today, so I don't know what the delivery problem might have been. Could you try again? Or phone me - I'm in the Seattle listings.
Assuming that they did the first descent (and I think they did) their success came from wanting it more than anybody else at the time. They were willing to haul heavy gear in there before the road opened for the season and just work a lot harder than we now have to (with our better gear and knowledge). Interestingly, I believe they just barely beat another party to it (Sprague Ackley and Hope Barnes), based on a rumor I heard from a friend at the time.
Lowell - I attempted to send an e-mail to you from your website, but it was returned to me undeliverable.
David - I've received lots of e-mail today, so I don't know what the delivery problem might have been. Could you try again? Or phone me - I'm in the Seattle listings.
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