Home > Trip Reports > May 16, 2007, Whitehorse Mt. Once more from the top

May 16, 2007, Whitehorse Mt. Once more from the top

5/16/07
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Posted by artfreeman on 5/19/07 4:26am
At 6 am last Wednesday six brave Mountaineers, plus one fool on skis set out for the annual climb of Whitehorse.  This was to be the 6th year in a row on this €œearly season conditioner€ and I€™d always wanted to give it a try on skis (actually skis were mostly ON me). With fair weather and 9500€™ freezing level forecasted, this was the year€¦or, like the man says, €œyou€™ll be one year older when you do.€   

And speaking of €œkodak courage€ check out the MOVIE taken by Brett Dyson  (I swear, it is a whole lot steeper than it looks):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=moqXeLBsCvM

Whitehorse is a good early season conditioner, provided you are already in good condition.  The TH starts at 900€™ (should be illegal), the top is 6840€™ and you typically drop and regain about 600€™.  So call it an honest 7 grand. 

First photo below shows our objective from the Whitehorse store parking lot, with summit visible.  This shot on right taken last year enjoying a post-climb ice cream with moat slayer, 5-year Whitehorse vet and spiritual advisor Sloan Brockman.   On left is from the summit last Wednesday showing steep section at very top (photo€”Frank Miles).

First 2000€™ feet on dirt trail with some blow-downs, but not too bad.  Exited trail onto snow slopes heading up and left to Lone Tree Pass.  Skinned about half way and then carried.  It had not frozen and the snow was already a bit too soft and I was slipping back.  Luckily for me there was a well-oiled step kicking machine out front.  Much of this mountain is borderline too steep for effective skinning in my opinion unless conditions are just right.  Expect to carry skis a lot.  From Lone Tree Pass we dropped south 600€™ to obvious flat area with pond.  Made a few nice turns after breaking out of the tight trees.  Skinned on part of traverse to base of broad gully below (west of) High Pass.  Carried skis to High Pass, where we roped up on general principles (crevasse risk seems very low).  Placed two deadman style pickets above the moat, which is about 75€™ below the top.  Unlike in some years, when there can be a tricky rock scramble, we were able to climb up steep snow to the top.

Second photo below shows approach to summit from High Pass on the So-Bahli-Ahli Glacier.  Bottom shot is of moat in upper snow slope.  Two 30 meter ropes would allow you to rap from the summit past the moat€¦.or€¦.last photo below shows alternative method (photos€”Frank Miles, Jerry €œglad I left the snowboard at home€ Scott)

Was able to ski wet glop all the way down to the pond S of Lone Tree, and, after climbing back over the pass, ski back to trail.  Some avy debris but reasonable.  Watch for holes!  Car to car was about 12 hours.  Thanks to Matt Linden, Frank, Sloan, and Brett for the nice steps and rope hauling, and Jeff Hancock for management oversight.
Art, you animal.  ;)  I'm pleased to see that you returned intact, again.  I was concerned that if I joined you and Jeff that I would have violated one of my major rules about walking on dirt to get to skiable terrain.

Want to ski in a storm on Sunday ?

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may-16-2007-whitehorse-mt-once-more-from-the-top
artfreeman
2007-05-19 11:26:16