West McMillan Spire - Southern Pickets Jan 27-28
1/27/07
21652
21
West McMillan Spire Southern Pickets
January 27-28th, 2007
After a still winter night I awoke with the impression that some question had been put to me, which I had been endeavoring in vain to answer in my sleep, as whathowwhenwhere? But there was dawning Nature, in whom all creatures live, looking in at my broad windows with serene and satisfied face, and no question on her lips. I awoke to an answered question, to Nature and daylight. The snow lying deep on the earth dotted with young pines, and the very slope of the hill on which my house is placed, seemed to say, Forward!
~ Henry David Thoreau
Sky Sjue, Phil Fortier, Jason Hummel
***I have more photos but here are a few for now
The Pickets have the reputation of being big, burly and mean. But they can be kind too, they can be glorious, and they can be absolutely the most amazing place you could ever set foot in anywhere in the Washington Cascades.
During this past January weekend I was privileged to meet the kinder, gentler Pickets, and I am so excited about it, I cant do anything else but sit here and write about everything before the thrill has diminished.
From north of Highway 20 above Newhalem you can see the Southern Pickets far up Goodell Creek. Early Saturday morning with Phil and Sky, this is where I found myself. With Novembers torrential rains, the road to the trailhead was washed out, so we parked at the rock quarry before preparing to skin up the road. The elevation here, 500-ft!!! I dont know what I was more surprised of, the size of Skys pack or the low-level snow pack.
That morning the sun wasnt out yet, but the sky was pristine, lacking any and all clouds. The day before I had told sky, If we get corn snow, I owe you beer and pizza. It was looking like we had one heck of a chance for butter snow, which was fine by me. Beer and pizza is honestly a screaming deal for a chance at winter-spring snow in the Picket Range .
You cant beat that.
Several places we were unsure of where to go, but we were able to pick up the old road grade until it ended, at which point we headed up. The trees are dense in a few places, and there are steep portions, but for the most part this was a nice direct approach. That is until we busted out of the trees. Its a several mile traverse from here over to McMillan Basin where first views of Triumph, Despair and the Chopping Block stopped us in our tracks. The fluted slopes, shadowed glaciers and airy summits couldnt help but be appreciated in their winter coats. Even now it warms me up just thinking about it. My spirit was getting a refill and by nightfall itd be topped off, not to mention the day to come!!!
http://cascadecrusades.org/SkiMountaineering/westmcmillan/westmcmillan2007/DSC_0176a.jpg
Along our traverse a pass must be surmounted. Once there, we didnt stay long, as the sun was falling behind the mountains to the west, and the wind was picking up. Its as if wind rises in the mountains whenever sunset or sunrise nears. We chased the light down from the exposed ridge several hundred feet where we set up camp and shelter for the night. Sky did a great job melting water until darkness set in and the stars and moon appeared. It was only wind and cold that finally forced us to submit to sleep.
I went to bed with a smile on my face.
http://cascadecrusades.org/SkiMountaineering/westmcmillan/westmcmillan2007/DSC_0186a.jpg
http://cascadecrusades.org/SkiMountaineering/westmcmillan/westmcmillan2007/DSC_0247a.jpg
http://cascadecrusades.org/SkiMountaineering/westmcmillan/westmcmillan2007/DSC_0228a.jpg
Day TWO
I was chased out of our shelter with the prospect of morning alpenglow sweeping the slopes of Degenhardt over to McMillan Spires. Snow slopes appeared more alien than terrestrial with dark shadows starkly contrasting the pinkish glow of glacier and rock. While the day came alive, we ate breakfast and melted more water. By then that nights smile had morphed into a full on grin.
http://cascadecrusades.org/SkiMountaineering/westmcmillan/westmcmillan2007/DSC_0281a.jpg
http://cascadecrusades.org/SkiMountaineering/westmcmillan/westmcmillan2007/DSC_0344a.jpg
The route to the base of the climb was still a long traverse around a lake; the remnant of a retreating glacier. Surrounded by steep walls at the outlet, cliffs act like a gateway. I skied up to this on my descent and felt privileged to see a lake newly formed in my lifetime. It truly looked wild and surreal with the snow sluffs leading to the perfectly leveled bottom.
http://cascadecrusades.org/SkiMountaineering/westmcmillan/westmcmillan2007/DSC_0008b.jpg
Climbing up the snowfields went very quickly. There was just enough give in the crust to offer purchase for the climb. This softened as we climbed into the light, and by then tee shirt and no gloves were par for the course. It was hot!!! We didnt know what to do with ourselves. Obscenities would just randomly be shouted at the top of our lungs or under our breath. It was incredible; the Pickets have treated me well in nearly every journey. I was getting spoiled, and I liked it.
We were forced to boot when the slope steepened. I led the way to the col. I couldnt wait to see the other side of the Picket Range, and whatever energy I had left carried me upward until, nearly there, I slowed to catch my breath before Fury, Luna, and the North Faces of Terror, Degenhardt, Pyramid, Inspiration and everything between were brought into focus. It took my breath away again. Ive dreamed of climbing in the Pickets in winter for a long time. This was it; my payoff. Maybe its what climbing is all about: to come and see the true beauty of nature; the destructive forces and calm serenity of wind, rain and snow. They carve these statues and we idolize them.
Above us was a narrow shoulder leading to a knife ridge. To either side was a lot of exposure, but the climb was reasonable. With my whippets and crampons, I took charge before the others were ready and led the way to the summit. There were icy nubbins with soft snow underneath. Not the best for skiing. I kept looking back, wanting to take out my camera. Near the top I let the others pass and they didnt dally. By the time I climbed across the final ridge, they were retreating and preparing for the descent.
http://cascadecrusades.org/SkiMountaineering/westmcmillan/westmcmillan2007/DSC_0053b.jpg
http://cascadecrusades.org/SkiMountaineering/westmcmillan/westmcmillan2007/DSC_0061.jpg
http://cascadecrusades.org/SkiMountaineering/westmcmillan/westmcmillan2007/DSC_0081b.jpg
http://cascadecrusades.org/SkiMountaineering/westmcmillan/westmcmillan2007/DSC_0079b.jpg
The skiing did have a few obstacles, the main one of which was a rock step toward the top. When I climbed by it I didnt think that it would be very wise, but impressions while climbing are never good, it is best to decide once the skis are on your feet. No matter the butterflies and the narrow ridge, I focused on getting my newly waxed skis on. I swore that I would not be waxing anytime soon, especially any pair I had just purchased. I like them scratched, and when I came to the crux, I scratched them on the rocks. Sky had caught up with me by then. He had climbed down to find an alternate route, but decided that it was no good. Just as I was skiing down he had returned to the top. We both had no issues with the original route, although sky used his axe while I employed my 168cm skis. When I reached Phil just below the crux, my mouth wasnt dry anymore. When kayaking we use what is called the 'spit test. If you cant spit, you should portage.
At the top, I managed to spit, so I skied.
http://cascadecrusades.org/SkiMountaineering/westmcmillan/westmcmillan2007/DSC_0129b.jpg
Getting back to the col felt great, and the snow was nice in places where it wasnt icy (smile). That wasnt the case below the notch; it was absolutely primed for three dogs to mark their territory. The snow was amazing.
Ill let the pictures tell the rest of the story, at least the skiing part.
The return journey home was stalled by multiple looks backward. At camp, we ate the remainder of our food before packing up, Sky with his unbelievably small pack. The pace was pushed to get as far out before darkness came. Our best case scenario was to be at the road grade before dark (this road is not exactly a road anymore). Slush snow met us by the time the traverse back to the ridge was completed. It was a real energy waster, and turning was next to impossible. Sky and Phil gave up skiing at some point, while I continued to 'cure my skis on multiple rocks and logs. Sky caught up with me when I changed to boots for a short walk to the road. Here we put skis back on. For the next several miles there were short carries, and wild skiing down around trees, stumps, fallen logs, and creek beds. The snow was very icy, making for quick travel. We arrived at the car after gliding along a few roads five and a half hours after leaving camp. You cant beat that de-proach in the Pickets!!!
So, there you go, my thrill is here for all of you to enjoy, and for me to come back to years from now, after other trips to the Pickets remind me that I was very lucky to have such beautiful weather, perfect snow, and good friends. As for these mountains reputation of being big, burly and mean, I seem to think that they are not always so masculine; they have more feminine characteristics too. Maybe instead of the most beautiful mountains in the Washington Cascades, maybe they are the most beautiful mountains anywhere. And if you don't agree, I don't mind. Big, burly and mean keep out the riffraff, even us when we become to sure of ourselves.
January 27-28th, 2007
After a still winter night I awoke with the impression that some question had been put to me, which I had been endeavoring in vain to answer in my sleep, as whathowwhenwhere? But there was dawning Nature, in whom all creatures live, looking in at my broad windows with serene and satisfied face, and no question on her lips. I awoke to an answered question, to Nature and daylight. The snow lying deep on the earth dotted with young pines, and the very slope of the hill on which my house is placed, seemed to say, Forward!
~ Henry David Thoreau
Sky Sjue, Phil Fortier, Jason Hummel
***I have more photos but here are a few for now
The Pickets have the reputation of being big, burly and mean. But they can be kind too, they can be glorious, and they can be absolutely the most amazing place you could ever set foot in anywhere in the Washington Cascades.
During this past January weekend I was privileged to meet the kinder, gentler Pickets, and I am so excited about it, I cant do anything else but sit here and write about everything before the thrill has diminished.
From north of Highway 20 above Newhalem you can see the Southern Pickets far up Goodell Creek. Early Saturday morning with Phil and Sky, this is where I found myself. With Novembers torrential rains, the road to the trailhead was washed out, so we parked at the rock quarry before preparing to skin up the road. The elevation here, 500-ft!!! I dont know what I was more surprised of, the size of Skys pack or the low-level snow pack.
That morning the sun wasnt out yet, but the sky was pristine, lacking any and all clouds. The day before I had told sky, If we get corn snow, I owe you beer and pizza. It was looking like we had one heck of a chance for butter snow, which was fine by me. Beer and pizza is honestly a screaming deal for a chance at winter-spring snow in the Picket Range .
You cant beat that.
Several places we were unsure of where to go, but we were able to pick up the old road grade until it ended, at which point we headed up. The trees are dense in a few places, and there are steep portions, but for the most part this was a nice direct approach. That is until we busted out of the trees. Its a several mile traverse from here over to McMillan Basin where first views of Triumph, Despair and the Chopping Block stopped us in our tracks. The fluted slopes, shadowed glaciers and airy summits couldnt help but be appreciated in their winter coats. Even now it warms me up just thinking about it. My spirit was getting a refill and by nightfall itd be topped off, not to mention the day to come!!!
http://cascadecrusades.org/SkiMountaineering/westmcmillan/westmcmillan2007/DSC_0176a.jpg
Along our traverse a pass must be surmounted. Once there, we didnt stay long, as the sun was falling behind the mountains to the west, and the wind was picking up. Its as if wind rises in the mountains whenever sunset or sunrise nears. We chased the light down from the exposed ridge several hundred feet where we set up camp and shelter for the night. Sky did a great job melting water until darkness set in and the stars and moon appeared. It was only wind and cold that finally forced us to submit to sleep.
I went to bed with a smile on my face.
http://cascadecrusades.org/SkiMountaineering/westmcmillan/westmcmillan2007/DSC_0186a.jpg
http://cascadecrusades.org/SkiMountaineering/westmcmillan/westmcmillan2007/DSC_0247a.jpg
http://cascadecrusades.org/SkiMountaineering/westmcmillan/westmcmillan2007/DSC_0228a.jpg
Day TWO
I was chased out of our shelter with the prospect of morning alpenglow sweeping the slopes of Degenhardt over to McMillan Spires. Snow slopes appeared more alien than terrestrial with dark shadows starkly contrasting the pinkish glow of glacier and rock. While the day came alive, we ate breakfast and melted more water. By then that nights smile had morphed into a full on grin.
http://cascadecrusades.org/SkiMountaineering/westmcmillan/westmcmillan2007/DSC_0281a.jpg
http://cascadecrusades.org/SkiMountaineering/westmcmillan/westmcmillan2007/DSC_0344a.jpg
The route to the base of the climb was still a long traverse around a lake; the remnant of a retreating glacier. Surrounded by steep walls at the outlet, cliffs act like a gateway. I skied up to this on my descent and felt privileged to see a lake newly formed in my lifetime. It truly looked wild and surreal with the snow sluffs leading to the perfectly leveled bottom.
http://cascadecrusades.org/SkiMountaineering/westmcmillan/westmcmillan2007/DSC_0008b.jpg
Climbing up the snowfields went very quickly. There was just enough give in the crust to offer purchase for the climb. This softened as we climbed into the light, and by then tee shirt and no gloves were par for the course. It was hot!!! We didnt know what to do with ourselves. Obscenities would just randomly be shouted at the top of our lungs or under our breath. It was incredible; the Pickets have treated me well in nearly every journey. I was getting spoiled, and I liked it.
We were forced to boot when the slope steepened. I led the way to the col. I couldnt wait to see the other side of the Picket Range, and whatever energy I had left carried me upward until, nearly there, I slowed to catch my breath before Fury, Luna, and the North Faces of Terror, Degenhardt, Pyramid, Inspiration and everything between were brought into focus. It took my breath away again. Ive dreamed of climbing in the Pickets in winter for a long time. This was it; my payoff. Maybe its what climbing is all about: to come and see the true beauty of nature; the destructive forces and calm serenity of wind, rain and snow. They carve these statues and we idolize them.
Above us was a narrow shoulder leading to a knife ridge. To either side was a lot of exposure, but the climb was reasonable. With my whippets and crampons, I took charge before the others were ready and led the way to the summit. There were icy nubbins with soft snow underneath. Not the best for skiing. I kept looking back, wanting to take out my camera. Near the top I let the others pass and they didnt dally. By the time I climbed across the final ridge, they were retreating and preparing for the descent.
http://cascadecrusades.org/SkiMountaineering/westmcmillan/westmcmillan2007/DSC_0053b.jpg
http://cascadecrusades.org/SkiMountaineering/westmcmillan/westmcmillan2007/DSC_0061.jpg
http://cascadecrusades.org/SkiMountaineering/westmcmillan/westmcmillan2007/DSC_0081b.jpg
http://cascadecrusades.org/SkiMountaineering/westmcmillan/westmcmillan2007/DSC_0079b.jpg
The skiing did have a few obstacles, the main one of which was a rock step toward the top. When I climbed by it I didnt think that it would be very wise, but impressions while climbing are never good, it is best to decide once the skis are on your feet. No matter the butterflies and the narrow ridge, I focused on getting my newly waxed skis on. I swore that I would not be waxing anytime soon, especially any pair I had just purchased. I like them scratched, and when I came to the crux, I scratched them on the rocks. Sky had caught up with me by then. He had climbed down to find an alternate route, but decided that it was no good. Just as I was skiing down he had returned to the top. We both had no issues with the original route, although sky used his axe while I employed my 168cm skis. When I reached Phil just below the crux, my mouth wasnt dry anymore. When kayaking we use what is called the 'spit test. If you cant spit, you should portage.
At the top, I managed to spit, so I skied.
http://cascadecrusades.org/SkiMountaineering/westmcmillan/westmcmillan2007/DSC_0129b.jpg
Getting back to the col felt great, and the snow was nice in places where it wasnt icy (smile). That wasnt the case below the notch; it was absolutely primed for three dogs to mark their territory. The snow was amazing.
Ill let the pictures tell the rest of the story, at least the skiing part.
The return journey home was stalled by multiple looks backward. At camp, we ate the remainder of our food before packing up, Sky with his unbelievably small pack. The pace was pushed to get as far out before darkness came. Our best case scenario was to be at the road grade before dark (this road is not exactly a road anymore). Slush snow met us by the time the traverse back to the ridge was completed. It was a real energy waster, and turning was next to impossible. Sky and Phil gave up skiing at some point, while I continued to 'cure my skis on multiple rocks and logs. Sky caught up with me when I changed to boots for a short walk to the road. Here we put skis back on. For the next several miles there were short carries, and wild skiing down around trees, stumps, fallen logs, and creek beds. The snow was very icy, making for quick travel. We arrived at the car after gliding along a few roads five and a half hours after leaving camp. You cant beat that de-proach in the Pickets!!!
So, there you go, my thrill is here for all of you to enjoy, and for me to come back to years from now, after other trips to the Pickets remind me that I was very lucky to have such beautiful weather, perfect snow, and good friends. As for these mountains reputation of being big, burly and mean, I seem to think that they are not always so masculine; they have more feminine characteristics too. Maybe instead of the most beautiful mountains in the Washington Cascades, maybe they are the most beautiful mountains anywhere. And if you don't agree, I don't mind. Big, burly and mean keep out the riffraff, even us when we become to sure of ourselves.
Jason et al,
Another great trip - congratulations. On a side note, your photos are stunning - they really bring the trip to life. If I can ask, what lens(es) are you shooting with?
-s
Another great trip - congratulations. On a side note, your photos are stunning - they really bring the trip to life. If I can ask, what lens(es) are you shooting with?
-s
There are some publishable pics in there.
A great adventure written and photographed with emotion. Thanks.
Wow -- great stuff. Some of those pics are just fantastic. The stand-out, for me, is the night shot of your tracks to camp and the stars. Beautiful. Nice work guys!
author=Jason_H. link=topic=6153.msg25456#msg25456 date=1170225756]
West McMillan Spire – Southern Pickets
When kayaking we use what is called the ‘spit test’. If you can’t spit, you should portage.
At the top, I managed to spit, so I skied.
thats some good stuff man....nice work taking advantage of perfect spring conditions in the dead of winter!
Very nice write-up, Jason.
I like the way you wrote that you'd let the pictures do the rest of the talking for the skiing, then only posted the one where you had me ski on the crappiest snow we could find below the col. I know, I know; you haven't posted them all.
Beautiful pictures, too.
I like the way you wrote that you'd let the pictures do the rest of the talking for the skiing, then only posted the one where you had me ski on the crappiest snow we could find below the col. I know, I know; you haven't posted them all.
Beautiful pictures, too.
author=skykilo link=topic=6153.msg25467#msg25467 date=1170269840]
I like the way you wrote that you'd let the pictures do the rest of the talking for the skiing, then only posted the one where you had me ski on the crappiest snow we could find below the col. I know, I know; you haven't posted them all.
yeah, I found that weird...
I think you owe us some more pics Jason... your story is incomplete!!
;D I'll get more when I can. I'm glad that you all enjoyed the stories and pictures. I've been so busy it was hard to put all of this together.
BTW skip, I don't have a very nice lens. It's just a 28-85 couple 100 dollar lens. I plan on getting a nicer one soon. It's the only lens I have other than the kit lens that came with the camera. It does better, but I am not too friendly with gear unfortunately (its not working great), which worries me when it comes to carrying a nicer lens.
BTW skip, I don't have a very nice lens. It's just a 28-85 couple 100 dollar lens. I plan on getting a nicer one soon. It's the only lens I have other than the kit lens that came with the camera. It does better, but I am not too friendly with gear unfortunately (its not working great), which worries me when it comes to carrying a nicer lens.
Drop the zoom! The zoom lens is going to have infinitely more problems than a nice 28mm/50mm. More moving parts, more subject to breakage. And I know how you like to break stuff.
I think a zoom is pretty important for action photography and scenics, where you might be restricted in where you can move. Plus you don't want to be swapping lenses all the time in a dirty environment.
I've never had a zoom part of a lens break on me. However I've had the autofocus and aperture controls break on a cheap electronic lens, which is all that will work with Jason's digital camera anyways... (e.g. he can't use a nice inexpensive solidly built mechanical 50mm)
He needs a nice wide-angle zoom, so we can ski closer to him.
I've never had a zoom part of a lens break on me. However I've had the autofocus and aperture controls break on a cheap electronic lens, which is all that will work with Jason's digital camera anyways... (e.g. he can't use a nice inexpensive solidly built mechanical 50mm)
He needs a nice wide-angle zoom, so we can ski closer to him.
Well done. Inspiring trip.
Wow Jason! What an accomplishment! Beautiful photos, too. ;D
I can't wait to see more!
Christy
I can't wait to see more!
Christy
The night shots are the best. I hope I get to do a moonlight ski this season.
Thanks for the inspiration.
Thanks for the inspiration.
whoa! nice shots, skiing in january in a tshirt...in the pickets?! sick...
You guys totally blow me away on a weekly basis. Thanks for the continued inspiration.
Really nice photos again Jason. I wish I could've been there.
Here are some more West McMillan Photos
I hope that everyone was able to get out and enjoy the nice weather. It looks like our weather is getting back to normal :'(
I hope that everyone was able to get out and enjoy the nice weather. It looks like our weather is getting back to normal :'(
awsome pictures!! i especially like the one of "tracks back to camp under stars",, like a ephoric dream or something
author=philfort link=topic=6153.msg25473#msg25473 date=1170273566]
I think a zoom is pretty important for action photography and scenics, where you might be restricted in where you can move. Plus you don't want to be swapping lenses all the time in a dirty environment.
I'd agree on having a zoom. When out in the field (that is skiing, biking, etc) it's somewhat of a pain to have to swap out lenses and such, not to mention the greater chance of dust and water getting on the sensor. That being said, a nice shot with a wide-angle prime could always be cropped...which is what I'm starting to think about these days.
Awesome trip and pics Jason.
Ian
You folks are my HEROES. I drool when I think about the Picket Range. They are my ultimate ski destination, although I haven't had the chance to get out to them yet. Very inspiring. Nice show.
i was just taking another look at the scurlock photo and that has to be one of the sickest lines ever.
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