Home > Trip Reports > May 13-15, 2006, Forbidden Tour, North Cascades NP

May 13-15, 2006, Forbidden Tour, North Cascades NP

5/13/06
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Posted by Paul_Russell on 5/18/06 2:41pm
After attempting the tour two weeks ago and turning back due to poor weather, the forecast for the weekend had me back there again with Paul C., Rob and Sonya with high hopes for completing the tour in 3 days.  We left Seattle somewhat late due to schedules on Sat at 7:30am, and into Boston Basin to 7500' on the Quien Sabe gl.  With energy remaining, we made a near fateful decision to continue over Sharkfin col that afternoon around 5pm to save time for the next day and camp on the Boston gl.  We had alternatively considered crossing higher at the Boston-Sahale col over Boston Peak (the choice for the prior attempt) but went for the more direct option up down to the Boston gl (schrund not bad) got us over to
Paul Cornett on descent of the Forbidden Gl

Sunday greeted us with great weather and the
to the col was in soft, mushy snow with full eastern exposure around 10:30am.  It went easily, and put us , down to about 5600€™ where we crossed over to the trees.  There the route steepened and was a bit circuitous for the final few hundred feet with some exposed rocks down to Moraine Lake (a more open route to skier's right became obvious looking up from the lake).  The direct descent option down the snout of the glacier looked iffy with lots of debris.


Rob West on the upper Inspiration Gl traverse

Determined to make it to Klawatti col, we began the long
. Paul and I were able to skin the at sunset and full moon. 
Camp at Klawatti Col

Sunday night was quite warm, and we found the snow had not refrozen overnight leaving us wondering about the conditions for the later descent of Eldorado Cr.  We decided again to forgo the Austera option and went directly for the
went smoothly.  brought us to the cars by around 5pm with good beers awaiting.  Altogether, this was an awesome tour across spectacular, remote terrain to be much appreciated with a stint of long awaited good weather.  Thanks to , I'm sorry you couldn't make it after our atttempt 2 weeks ago -- we'll have to go back some day!
Paul:  lucky!!  i'm glad it all worked out.  very nice photos, especially the one of camp.  say, is that  a red Hillberg tent?

Way to get it done, Paul!

Great work!
Great photos and fine trip report!
I am totally jealous, sounds like much good fun in Alaska, er, uh was that the Cascades?

totally rad. nice work.

:) Thanks for the report and great pictures. Goodun on ya doing all that with heavy packs.

thanks for the great tr and photos. does anyone have an idea how late in the year this tour will remain doable? it has been on my list since i first read about it two years ago, but it will be at least a few weeks before i have that kind of time.

Myself and ANdreas from switzerland were the other two on the tour.  WE took four days and climbed a few more peaks.  It was all in all a spectactular outing.  I posted a TR on Cascade CLimber if anyone is interested.  Probably get some pics up there eventually as well.

say, is that  a red Hillberg tent?


Hey Kam, yes, that's a Hilleberg Nallo 2 tent that Rob and Sonya were using.  Very nice tent.  Made my Bibler I-tent look a little cramped for space (I think their vestibule was bigger)! http://www.hilleberg.com/Catalog/tents_47616_products.htm. 

So we debated the +/- of the two tents.  For this trip, the Bibler was nice for not having to dig a big platform and with good weather, no need for the larger vestibule really, so saved some weight there.  On the other hand, two weeks ago, I was caught in a storm with my Bibler.  While quick to setup and get out of the weather, not having a vestibule was problematic when trying to cook and melt snow for water.  The design of the door allowed rain into the tent whenever opened.  Not good.  This actually delayed our start the next day because we really needed to dry out and utimately was part of why we turned around.  So the Nallo would have made a big difference in those conditions.  Petra Hilleberg is a good friend, and I'm sure will be happy to see the tent pics too  -- and for me to finally buy one to replace the bibler!

does anyone have an idea how late in the year this tour will remain doable?


Well, I would say it will be doable for several more weeks, but will require more hiking to reach Boston Basin.  Plenty of snow up high though with great coverage.  Some more crevasses will be exposed, and the schrund on the Sharkfin col rappel might be more problematic on the Boston gl.   You might also have to look at an alternative to the Moraine lake crossing if the lake starts melting out (option is described in Martin V. guide book).   Will also depend on how warm the weather remains.

I posted a TR on Cascade CLimber if anyone is interested.


Nice to meet you guys and sounds like you had a great trip too.  Glad you had time for that trip out to Austera, very nice.  And thanks for your trip report http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/573864/an/0/page/0#573864

Paul, sounds great!!, and nice photos!! 

You guys make me think about cutting back on my job :'(

Awesome pictures Paul and great TR! Glad you were able to hit it in such perfect weather conditions after your wet weather experience a couple of weeks ago.

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may-13-15-2006-forbidden-tour-north-cascades-np
Paul_Russell
2006-05-18 21:41:51