May 14, 2006, NE couloir Magic Mountain
5/14/06
4046
7
Having been inspired two years ago by Phils trip report and photos of this exact outing http://www.mtnphil.com/Magic/Magic.html, timing, conditions, weather, and partners came together for an excellent day in North Cascades National Park. Thanks, Phil, for finding such a fun climb to ski!
The J-team (Jim, Jeff, and myself) headed in style and comfort to the gate at milepost 21 of the Cascade River Road Saturday evening in Jeffs camper where we ate a hearty meal and washed it down with cold beverages as the sky darkened and night fell. Trying to keep to Phils timetable, the alarms sounded at 3:00AM. We ate, finished loading backpacks, and were marching up the road a bit before 4:00AM. The road started snow free then just before the parking lot became consistent enough to skin so we stashed the running shoes and started to ski.
Johannesburg towered above us in the morning twilight and the surrounding peaks of Eldorado, Torment, and Sahale began to pop up one-by-one. It looked like we would be able to skin all the way to the pass, but as the frozen snow steepened it became less sketchy to pack the skis and boot up. With each step the slope steepened and the snow became firmer requiring several solid thwacks to set even shallow steps. As I looked back down I began to wish I had pulled my ice axe from my backpack or even put the crampons on. Several steps later I decided it was no longer a wish and teetering on the duckbills of my tele boots, I carefully unshouldered my pack, grabbed the axe, and plunged the shaft through the crustinstant security. I promised myself at that moment that I would order at least one whippet when I returned home.
Jeff and I followed a high-traversing line leading toward Mix-Up Arm. Jim was smarter and followed a lower line saving himself some needless elevation gain, but missing out on the first of the icy, morning turns. A funny moment happened when I mentioned Jims decision by saying, Jeff, Jim peeled off below us to the left.
Jeff responded with a concerned tone, Where is he?"
Over there, I pointed.
Is he alright? Jeff asked.
Chuckling at the misunderstanding, I said, Yeah, he didnt peel off like fell, he followed a lower line to the pass.
While standing in the sun and brisk wind at the pass, we contemplated our prospects, basically deciding that if the couloir was as icy as the snow we were standing on that Sahale, our plan B, would be the best bet seeing that we hadnt brought a rope or gear and had no intention of skiing a 40-45 degree frozen couloir. We had to go check it out though so dropped down the frozen snow to Pelton Basin leaving only the faintest of tracks across the ice.
Our decision reinforced the idea that you never know what youll find until you get there. The snow below the Yawning Glacier had begun to soften just enough to give us hope and we could see the top of the couloir gleaming in the sun. We were able to skin easily to the cliffs below Magics north face then boot up one of the snow-filled gullies to the bottom of the couloir avoiding the left then right zig zag that Phil and Matt required two years ago.
In the couloir we found a good amount of new snow (6-8) that was a bit wind affected, but well bonded to the firm crust below. We chose to ascend very close to the rock wall on climbers left partly to avoid tracking the ski line, partly to stay in the shade of the rocks, partly to avoid sloughs that would run down the middle of the couloir, and partly to enjoy the steeper climbing on this side. For one short section the good snow turned to ice and Jeff chopped steps adding some extra interest to the climb. The climb itself was amazing enough, but with each glance back down to the basin below, the impending excitement of ripping back down grew.
Once at the top of the couloir (we didnt actually stand on Magics summit) we enjoyed the views out toward Spider and Formidable and back toward Buckner, Ripsaw Ridge, and all the other Cascade Pass area peaks. We didnt want to let the snow get too soft, so after snacks and snow-chilled beers (Jim got to remind himself of how to chug when he punctured his can on a rock), we strapped the skis on and got psyched.
Jeff dropped in first. The opening turns were a bit sketchy due to a slightly funky, breakable crust and the steep, narrow nature of the top 100 or so of the couloir as well as the rock wall one would bash into should the turns be botched. Jeff sailed away in style and yelled back up, Glad Im not free heeling it today! Looking down for my turn I kept telling myself I was glad that I was. I played it cautious, side-slipping toward the rock wall, nailing a jump turn, slide-slipping more, jump turning again, and so on until the couloir opened up and I could relax some enjoying the steepness, the position, and the soft snow in the sun. Jim followed next with what from below looked like a similar technique to mine albeit on AT gear. We leapfrogged our way down taking turns to shoot pictures and video and sending a barrage of snow chunks bouncing down the couloir and some fast moving sloughs down the deepening runnel. Soon enough we were in the slush leading down into the basin though we did find one last semi-firm gentle slope to finish with.
From the basin we skinned back to Cascade Pass, briefly entertained the idea of dumping all our gear and hurrying up Sahale, but thought better of it given the mushy conditions. The run down from the pass was soft and uneventful leading us back to our shoes and a leisurely stroll back to the camper where we cracked open ice cold beers while Jeff fired up some Brats, kraut, and spicy sweet mustard. Mmmmmm¦.what a day to be alivegood food, cold beer, a great climb/ski, and good company. All in all one of the best ski trips Ive done!
Pictures to follow¦
The J-team (Jim, Jeff, and myself) headed in style and comfort to the gate at milepost 21 of the Cascade River Road Saturday evening in Jeffs camper where we ate a hearty meal and washed it down with cold beverages as the sky darkened and night fell. Trying to keep to Phils timetable, the alarms sounded at 3:00AM. We ate, finished loading backpacks, and were marching up the road a bit before 4:00AM. The road started snow free then just before the parking lot became consistent enough to skin so we stashed the running shoes and started to ski.
Johannesburg towered above us in the morning twilight and the surrounding peaks of Eldorado, Torment, and Sahale began to pop up one-by-one. It looked like we would be able to skin all the way to the pass, but as the frozen snow steepened it became less sketchy to pack the skis and boot up. With each step the slope steepened and the snow became firmer requiring several solid thwacks to set even shallow steps. As I looked back down I began to wish I had pulled my ice axe from my backpack or even put the crampons on. Several steps later I decided it was no longer a wish and teetering on the duckbills of my tele boots, I carefully unshouldered my pack, grabbed the axe, and plunged the shaft through the crustinstant security. I promised myself at that moment that I would order at least one whippet when I returned home.
Jeff and I followed a high-traversing line leading toward Mix-Up Arm. Jim was smarter and followed a lower line saving himself some needless elevation gain, but missing out on the first of the icy, morning turns. A funny moment happened when I mentioned Jims decision by saying, Jeff, Jim peeled off below us to the left.
Jeff responded with a concerned tone, Where is he?"
Over there, I pointed.
Is he alright? Jeff asked.
Chuckling at the misunderstanding, I said, Yeah, he didnt peel off like fell, he followed a lower line to the pass.
While standing in the sun and brisk wind at the pass, we contemplated our prospects, basically deciding that if the couloir was as icy as the snow we were standing on that Sahale, our plan B, would be the best bet seeing that we hadnt brought a rope or gear and had no intention of skiing a 40-45 degree frozen couloir. We had to go check it out though so dropped down the frozen snow to Pelton Basin leaving only the faintest of tracks across the ice.
Our decision reinforced the idea that you never know what youll find until you get there. The snow below the Yawning Glacier had begun to soften just enough to give us hope and we could see the top of the couloir gleaming in the sun. We were able to skin easily to the cliffs below Magics north face then boot up one of the snow-filled gullies to the bottom of the couloir avoiding the left then right zig zag that Phil and Matt required two years ago.
In the couloir we found a good amount of new snow (6-8) that was a bit wind affected, but well bonded to the firm crust below. We chose to ascend very close to the rock wall on climbers left partly to avoid tracking the ski line, partly to stay in the shade of the rocks, partly to avoid sloughs that would run down the middle of the couloir, and partly to enjoy the steeper climbing on this side. For one short section the good snow turned to ice and Jeff chopped steps adding some extra interest to the climb. The climb itself was amazing enough, but with each glance back down to the basin below, the impending excitement of ripping back down grew.
Once at the top of the couloir (we didnt actually stand on Magics summit) we enjoyed the views out toward Spider and Formidable and back toward Buckner, Ripsaw Ridge, and all the other Cascade Pass area peaks. We didnt want to let the snow get too soft, so after snacks and snow-chilled beers (Jim got to remind himself of how to chug when he punctured his can on a rock), we strapped the skis on and got psyched.
Jeff dropped in first. The opening turns were a bit sketchy due to a slightly funky, breakable crust and the steep, narrow nature of the top 100 or so of the couloir as well as the rock wall one would bash into should the turns be botched. Jeff sailed away in style and yelled back up, Glad Im not free heeling it today! Looking down for my turn I kept telling myself I was glad that I was. I played it cautious, side-slipping toward the rock wall, nailing a jump turn, slide-slipping more, jump turning again, and so on until the couloir opened up and I could relax some enjoying the steepness, the position, and the soft snow in the sun. Jim followed next with what from below looked like a similar technique to mine albeit on AT gear. We leapfrogged our way down taking turns to shoot pictures and video and sending a barrage of snow chunks bouncing down the couloir and some fast moving sloughs down the deepening runnel. Soon enough we were in the slush leading down into the basin though we did find one last semi-firm gentle slope to finish with.
From the basin we skinned back to Cascade Pass, briefly entertained the idea of dumping all our gear and hurrying up Sahale, but thought better of it given the mushy conditions. The run down from the pass was soft and uneventful leading us back to our shoes and a leisurely stroll back to the camper where we cracked open ice cold beers while Jeff fired up some Brats, kraut, and spicy sweet mustard. Mmmmmm¦.what a day to be alivegood food, cold beer, a great climb/ski, and good company. All in all one of the best ski trips Ive done!
Pictures to follow¦
Awesome. Phil mentioned to me that we should've gone to Magic, but he mentioned a lot of other things as we schwacked up and down in search of another jewel. Unfortunately, not so jewelish. Maybe more mundane, like choss. Ha. Ha.
I bet CJ couloir looked good.
I bet CJ couloir looked good.
Wish I could post more pictures here, but when I get time I'll make a web page and put up a set, then post the link.
Like Jon said it was a fantastic day - perfect weather, great snow, and just enough challenge to make it spicy - all in one of the most beautiful places on earth. We filled a lot of memory cards!
First picture is taken from the pass looking over at Jon and Jeff traversing the basin over to the climb - the couloir isn't visible, but is behind and parallel to the shadowed rock wall angling up Magic. The second shot is climbing low in the couloir, and the last is one Jeff got of me skiing some of the best snow in the middle section.
Like Jon said it was a fantastic day - perfect weather, great snow, and just enough challenge to make it spicy - all in one of the most beautiful places on earth. We filled a lot of memory cards!
First picture is taken from the pass looking over at Jon and Jeff traversing the basin over to the climb - the couloir isn't visible, but is behind and parallel to the shadowed rock wall angling up Magic. The second shot is climbing low in the couloir, and the last is one Jeff got of me skiing some of the best snow in the middle section.
Cool! Nice to see someone else experiencing the Magic ;)
Looks like a great day...
Looks like a great day...
Hey, Phil, we were all curious how you found this route. It seems so hidden from most vantage points. From where did you pick it out?
author=Jason_H. link=topic=4733.msg20072#msg20072 date=1147727200]I bet CJ couloir looked good.
In the morning, yes. Returning in the afternoon it still looked good, but only photographically; a big, wet slide had cruised out of it a fair ways into the valley.
author=jonthomp link=topic=4733.msg20085#msg20085 date=1147742685]
It seems so hidden from most vantage points. From where did you pick it out?
I think it's mostly visible from the summit of Sahale actually... so lots of folks see it.
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