Home > Trip Reports > April 19, 2006, Kelley Cr - Captain Point, Stevens

April 19, 2006, Kelley Cr - Captain Point, Stevens

4/19/06
WA Stevens Pass
9811
11
Posted by Charles on 4/20/06 5:05am
I had intended to try a route from Miller River/Lake Dorothy toward Big Snow Mountain, in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. Info from the FS suggested that I might be able to drive to within 3 miles of the Lake Dorothy trailhead before snow, leaving only about 10 miles to Big Snow Mountain, hopefully all on snow. When I drove up yesterday morning, I was stopped by a tree across the road just 0.1 miles above the W. Fork Miller River, leaving 5+ miles to the trailhead, and no snow in sight. I guess I'm learning that I should bring either a mountain bike or a chain saw at this time of year.

I drove around a little, looking at other nearby options, but there was nothing that I was motivated to do. Stopped at the Skykomish RS to let them know about the tree. They knew. It seems that they'd had someone cruise a bunch of forest roads earlier in the week, with details still on a little post-it note. They had info on several roads off the Beckler River road, all blocked by trees before reaching snow. When will these trees be removed, I asked? Well, we'll have to wait until a trail crew goes up to work on the trails, and it's still early in the season so we don't really have crews yet, they responded. I wonder why the person who noted all of the trees didn't carry a chain saw and just take care of the problem right then, but I guess that's one of the mysteries of how our government works.

I did learn that the Martin Creek road was not blocked by a tree and that it should be drivable to snow, at around 2400 feet, so I got onto the old Stevens Pass road (beautiful) and then drove up Martin Creek to the snow. When the snow started, it was continuous, having been packed down by motors, and it was also frozen solid, being in the shade even though it was now 10am. My fishscale skis gripped well enough, though, and after a while the road began to be more in the sun on this beautiful spring day. It looked like a snowcat had been up the road, and I could see a bunch of fairly fresh ski/snowboard tracks up on west facing slopes on the east side of Martin Creek - maybe a commercial operation?

I still wasn't sure where I was going to go (having brought along topo maps for the area just in case), but I had noted a nice looking ski touring route on the map up Kelley Creek, a tributary of Martin Creek, and then up to Captain Point, 5724 feet. There was the problem of crossing Martin Creek, as I was on the wrong side for Kelley Creek and the snowpack wasn't that deep here, but the map showed a logging road crossing so I decided to look for that. After one dead end side road I found the bridge and continued along the road toward the opening to the Kelley Creek valley. Several avalanche chutes came down the south slopes above, including one big one that had clearly slid more than once, covering the road with huge ridges of debris. Past that chute the road began to be more overgrown and there were a couple of spots of tight trees that were difficult to get through, but eventually I came to the end of the road and clearcut and the beginning of what looked like very nice old growth forest, about 3100 feet. Right there was a little sign nailed to a tree that simply said "Trail", with an arrow pointing across the fairly deep ravine of Kelley Creek. Yet another example of a trail the use and memory of which has been lost to a clearcut?

I stayed on skier's right of Kelley Creek all the way up. There was no easy way to cross the ravine but it turned out that was not necessary anyway. The snowpack in the forest was ample and quickly increased, and the big trees were spaced well apart. A very beautiful forest with sun spots coming through in places. At first there was just a little dusting of new snow in the micro-glades beween the trees, but this increased so that when I reached some meadows around 4000 feet there was 1-3 inches of the new snow under trees and about 6 inches in the open. The snow had refrozen but by now it was softening quite a bit, and sometimes the 3-4 inch crust would break in plates under my skis.

After some lunch in the warm meadow I continued up the valley. I started climbing more through very consistent big tree forest and looking for the right turn up moderately steep slopes that would lead to the north ridge of Captain Point. At around 4400 feet I was pretty sure I had found the right place, so I put on skins and headed up. By now even the harder snow right under the trees was softening and I tried to climb on that since it was easier than breaking trail in the growing glades (with their 6 inches of new snow over a weakening crust over a bunch of large-grained mush). I reached the ridge at a saddle around 5100 feet and headed south up the ridge, which was broad and without overhanging cornices. The new snow got substantially deeper and in some places was ready to slide, but I could avoid the steeper sides by staying on the ridge.

Pretty soon I was on top of Captain Point. Wow, it seemed like the center of the mountain universe! With only one close-by peak being higher (Mt. Fernow to the SW at 6190) there was a spectacular 360 degree view. Monte Cristos, Glacier Peak, Chiwaukums, Stuart Range, Daniel and Hinman, the main Alpine Lakes peaks (Summit Chief, Lemah, Overcoat etc), Index and Persis, and the possible future Sky Wilderness peaks of Gunn/Merchant/Baring. It was very pleasant on top, with very little wind, and I ended up staying for about an hour (from 3 to 4pm). It was fun to toss snowballs down the north slope and watch them quickly grow into narrow 5 foot diameter pinwheels before shattering and creating a whole bunch of new pinwheels. I decided to walk a little way down the south ridge and found that the SE facing slopes below had been avalanching big time. It looked like a layer of new snow 12-18 inches deep had been sliding 600 feet down into the bowl below, and there were huge chunky piles of debris at the bottom. There was still plenty of snow which hadn't slid, though, so more snowballs over the edge for entertainment. I also find it pretty informative to see, from a safe vantage point, how the snow actually starts to slide, how it entrains more snow, and how quickly and powerfully the snow slides. Here are a couple of crude movies of slides from the top of this SE slope (quicktime mov format, about 4MB each):
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After all of that fun, it was time for the 1800 foot run back down to Kelley Creek. I wasn't expecting this to be great, with the combination of a variety of spring snows, not including corn, and my joke tele boots, but I added the cables and started back down the north ridge, sometimes dropping to the east side to avoid wind rolls. Most of this was actually pretty nice, with some turns here and there but mostly just downward traversing, and my ski cuts set off very little in the way of pinwheels. A little ridge touring brought me to the saddle and then I followed the general route of my climb up out of the valley. Here the best turns were under the trees, softened with not too much new snow, while the glades were deep mush. The most fun, though, was below 4400 feet, where I could start using the vertical to glide down the valley. Fast under the trees, mushy in the open, very few turns, but a fast and enjoyable way to get back to the logging road. Here's a low-tech version of a helmet cam movie from this forest glide (held the camera in one hand):
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Great Charles,
I've been intrigued with the potential of that area.  Cascade Powdercats is the commercial operator in that area.  I've been wondering about the NW facing slopes off Windy Ridge.  Does it look like there would be some runs on that side that may hold dry snow in winter?

Nice exploring (once again) Charles. Did you have a particular route in mind for getting up to Big Snow, had you been able to get up the road? I've wondered about a route from the north as well, though when I poked around that area a bit last summer (hiking), there was certainly no no-brainer route. There was a creek-bed that was fairly dry that looked to maybe head up into the alpine from the hiking trail that might avoid a serious brush thrash, and a bit after that there was a ridge that you pass over as you head to Lake Dorothy that might lead up, and then there's the route that Becky describes as the start of the Alpine Lakes High Route which is reported to be a classic thrash - wondering if you had your own hypothesis to test?

Jim, I was going to try Lake Dorothy to Gold Lake by the drainage between them, then SW up to Big Snow Mountain. Lots of cliff bands in this part of the Alpine Lakes, but on the map this route looks reasonable. I think this is the route Bergdorfer shows. Even if I had been able to drive to snow, I wasn't expecting to be able to get to Big Snow Mountain with the new snow and being alone. Hopefully I can try again with faster snow (and a partner). The Beckey route I remember starts at the Middle Fork Snoqualmie River, and Volken has the Hardscrabble Lakes ski route.

John, the top of that ridge running north from Windy Mountain looked gladed but I'm not sure that the runs would be that long. There has been quite a bit of logging on that side of the valley (or rather, both sides), and up on that ridge was where the snomo guys had been headed. Also, I'm not sure how close you can get by car in the winter.

I found some interesting information when I googled Kelley Creek just now, this from trails.com:
"Kelley Creek Trail: This abandoned trail was once part of an extensive 50-mile trail system running east of the Beckler River to the Cascade crest. Much of this trail system has been lost as a result of logging and the proliferation of typical Northwest brush and alder. As trails become more difficult to hike, they are eventually dropped from hiking guides and people stop using them. Information about the Kelley Creek Trail is hard to come by. It is briefly described in the 1988 edition of 100 Hikes in the Glacier Peak Area (The Mountaineers Books). The trail once went all the way to Scorpion Mountain. In the future the Forest Service hopes to link up this trail with the Iron Goat Trail to the east."

And this at www.eskimo.com/~sfox/TRAILS/us2.htm:
"Kelley Creek/Scorpion Mt: Getting there: Drive up road 6720 to 3000-3200'. Bushwack towards Kelley Creek and look for the trail. Trail Report: Tread is obscure in a few places to the Captain Point/Scorpion ridge. Look for blazes. On the ridge towards Scorpion Mt the tread is easily lost, but the ridge is obvious to follow. Look for sawed logs and blazes. There are reports of a north crest cutoff trail splitting towards the PCT. Captain Point has been logged a substantial amount. The best scenery is between Captain Point and Scorpion Mt."

Then I read this report report that talked about mountain biking up through the clearcuts on the SE side of Captain Point. The author said that a logging road goes all the way up to the ~5500 foot saddle just south of Captain Point!

I've been intrigued with the idea of skiing into Big Snow Mt. since a map that I have shows a skier symbol used for marking downhill ski areas. When I saw that on the map, I thought, "Huh? A mapmaker's typo or joke?"

Anyone know if there were ever plans to punch a road in and operate a lift area in there? Not that I'd want that, but I am curious as to how that symbol made it onto the map.

Charles, I'd be up for some exploring in the area if interest and schedules converge.

Ditto on the interest. I got as close as Chetwoot lake on a backpack last summer, but we explored in the opposite direction (toward La Bohn gap/Necklace Valley). It's some nice country up there.

I tried to approach Big Snow Mountain via the drainage from Gold Lake a few times back in the mid 90's, during mid winter, and got weathered out both times.  Part of the problem was trying to navigate which drainage to follow, as there are several choices to be made along the way.  I remember wondering why Beckie said it was a good ski route in, after finally making it to the lake on my 3rd try, the next summer.  For skiing, I find the Hardscrabble Lake route much superior,  in directness of access, and especially in ascetic terms.  There are some big walls in there.  I've always used the gully from the upper lake, as frankly, the approach to the summit from the lower lake intimidates me.  There is an amazing amount of skiable terrain on the north side of Big Snow, so an overnight stay at Gold Lake could yield many returns, if you did go in that way.

Whenver they finally gate the midfork road way below Hardscrabble creek, the northern route may start to have more appeal. I haven't checked in a while - last I saw the FS seemed vague about the gating plans.

I was told by the people at the hotsprings that the forest service had to bring the road up to forest service standards, at which point they were going to turn it over to the private landholders and gate it at Dingford Creek.  The folks seemed to think that was going to occur this summer.  In that case, the northern route would be more appealing.  I tried to get to the north side of Big S. from Myrtle Lake, and got cliffed out on two seperate tries.  I do see that Beckie describes an ascent route from the west side leaving from the Hester Lake trail shortly after it splits from the Dingford Creek trail.  I'm was planning on checking it out this summer, but perhaps it would be easier while there is still a snowpack.  Hmmm

I agree that that midfork approach would be shorter, easier to navigate, and yield more turns, which is probably why I'm interested in the northern approach. To me, a trip starting at 2200 feet and involving miles of skiing through the woods and then up into the alpine to 6600 has all of the elements of a great ski tour. With fast snow and some good navigation it should be doable in one day, though a long one. I was hoping last Wednesday to make it at least to Gold Lake and sort out the navigational challenges in the woods. This year would seem like a good time to try this trip with the good snowpack, but the part above Gold Lake likely has some tough going (plus avi hazard) right now with the new snow. Starting so low it is definitely a balancing act between having the higher snow be good and still having enough snow down low to make travel easy. Jim and jonthomp, let's keep in touch on this one.

I've looked at a possible route on the map like the one you mention, Swooz. A big problem in this part of the Alpine Lakes seems to be the small cliffs - big enough to stop a skier but small enough to not show up on 40ft contour topos. Only one way to find out for sure...

The business of the midfork gate is sure a confusing one. I hiked the trail from road end to Dutch Miller Gap in the fall of 2004 and along the way we met a trail crew. They said that they were trying to get maintenance done before the road got closed, which they said would be later that fall. But the road is still open??

Another bit of info about the Kelley Creek and Captain Point area: it is included in the Wild Sky Wilderness proposal, as are the portions of drainages going north (notably Rapid River) which haven't yet been logged. From what I've seen, there's still some relatively low elevation forest in this area which is still intact. Maybe Pombo will be defeated this fall. Here's a map of the proposed Wilderness area.

Charles,

Looks like you found a gem.

I was also very interested in this route into Big Snow.  I posted on a "discovery" trip on this route several years ago and was discouraged by some of the replies, suggesting that this seemed like a long haul without much reward.  I haven't had a chance to get back, but still feel that it is a worthwhile trip, one that I think might be more rewarding as an overnight.  I hope someone does it soon and reports on it, otherwise I am going to have to change my handle!

I have one of those shark tooth crosscut saws in my car full time.  The thought of traveling 3+ hrs to do a trip and getting shut out because of a tree bugs me.  I friend of mine was duly impressed on a trip up to Hidden Lake Peak, when we were stopped just a couple of miles up the access road when I pulled out that saw.  Seconds before he was super depressed.  It is not going to get you past a 5ft. diameter tree, but most of anything that will fall at those elevations.  I also have a hand winch to help if need be.  These all stow well.

Alan

I wrote to the MBS NF office asking for info on the Kelley Creek trail and the old trail network in the area, and I thought I'd post the info I received.

Kelley Creek trail:
"Kelley Creek Trail # 1076 is an existing trail listed on our trail inventory.  However, maintenance has been sporadic at best over the last decades, so most of the trail is very overgrown.  Due to this
poor trail condition the trail has not been shown on recent maps nor is the trailhead signed.  We have been working with the Washington Trails Association in maintenance of the trail, and they brushed out the first mile or so along the old logging road, in 2004-05.  We are hopeful that we can get more of the trail brushed out in the next couple of years. Eventually the trail leads to a junction with the Valhalla Mt. trail near Captain Pt., then ties into Johnson Ridge Trail # 1067 near Joan Lake.  We are also seeking a grant to complete planning (evironmental clearance, trail location) of a relocation of the trailhead to the Martin Creek Trailhead of the Iron Goat Trail in partnership with Volunteers for Outdoor Washington.  If this grant application is successful, we plan to begin work
on this relocation in 2008."

Old trail network in the area:
"The only connecting trail listed on the website would be Johnson Ridge Trail.  The Valhalla Mt. trail ran from near Captain Point to the PCT via Valhalla Mt.  This trail is listed as a "proposed" trail in our
trail inventory and follows an old trail which is bisected by a large clearcut and road on private land.  Based on current budget levels chances are slim that this trail would ever be built."

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april-19-2006-kelley-cr-captain-point-stevens
Charles
2006-04-20 12:05:13