Home > Trip Reports > June 23-24, 2018, Mt. Adams, N side sweetness

June 23-24, 2018, Mt. Adams, N side sweetness

6/23/18
WA Cascades West Slopes South (Mt Rainier)
4807
7
Posted by YoKid on 6/25/18 3:38am
I headed up to the N side of Adams this weekend. Left killen'it ck TH at about 11:30. Dropped overnight gear at high camp(hanging in a tree where the hordes of furry freinds couldn't access my tasty foods). Continued climbing the Cleaver for an evening ski. See photo, skied lookers left route off the cleaver, dropping in about 7:30 pm. Had it in my head that the snowfields would connect fairly easily. That proved to be a very foolish idea. I endured a very puckering half hour or so of uncertainty while I picked my way over 3 or 4 ribs of nasty steep choss interspersed by short patches of rotten snow under which I could hear lots of running water. I was quite relieved to finally step out onto the continuous snow band. Managed to traverse right to the very top of it somehow. Corn was excellent. Easy cruise back down to camp at 7000'. Killer sunset. very calm night(except the mice). I had no tent. 

Left camp in the AM to re-climb the cleaver. Pulled the summit cap in 3hr 45min from high camp. skinned around the top of Adams glacier and onto the pinnacle. Dropped NFNWR at 1:30. The steep corn situation was most ideal. I enjoyed this line immensely. Easy exit skiers right onto toe of Adams glacier just before the final berg. Ski dodged stunning crevasses across the flats and back to lake 7505' and then down to high camp. Pulled gear, quickly enjoyed a icy cold barley pop(mosquitoes had shown up something fierce), and then skied down to PCT crossing where I traded ski boots for sneakers and headed out.
On the drive home I was treated to a better vantage of my route from Saturday evening. Drawn line is actually just below my path so that the snow patches are visible. Zone of much uncertainty.

Thanks for the report! Conditions look ideal, besides the mosquito factor. Reason enough for a tent, eh?

On my first visit to the N side, I also took the line you climbed (or just skied?) up the variously-named "Big Tuna" or "Genie" snowfield. We ended up climbing a pitch of low-5th class but solid rock to gain the lower angled choss fields directly above. It's probably one of the proudest leads I've done, since it was in ski boots with one slung knob for leader protection.

In later trips I've always either just taken the standard route, from the base of the ridge, or used the snowfield one left of the Genie. That one has connected easily to the ridge crest, but has you exposed to rockfall for the whole time. I think I like the ridge most. Bring your tennies and save your ski boots from the choss!

Kamtron- still surprisingly smooth up there. Even all the way down to 7k there is hardly any sun cupping. Go get it!

I think a tent would be wise, if not for the mosquitos then for the mice. Ha

Big Tuna, I like it! I figured that snowfield would have a name. I climbed via the ridge proper both times on this trip. Such a funky route but yea nice in that it minimizes overhead exposure. I've read a number of folks here on TAY recommending sneakers for the climb but I'm not sure I'd like the extra weight of boots on my back or the decreased ankle/foot protection.

Last time I skied on this side we ascended via divide camp TR and then booted up the NWR. I liked that method for some reasons but decided there was too much risk of getting sluffed off the mountain either by natural wet slides or by skiers on their way down. On that trip we crossed paths with another group who were headed down and they(as well as ourselves) were pushing huge rivers of wet slide. Theres so much rollover on the NF and NWR that I don't think a skier party would have much idea you were below them.

author=YoKid link=topic=40826.msg162140#msg162140 date=1529957110]
Last time I skied on this side we ascended via divide camp TR and then booted up the NWR. I liked that method for some reasons but decided there was too much risk of getting sluffed off the mountain either by natural wet slides or by skiers on their way down. On that trip we crossed paths with another group who were headed down and they(as well as ourselves) were pushing huge rivers of wet slide. Theres so much rollover on the NF and NWR that I don't think a skier party would have much idea you were below them.


Aha, yes. I was maybe there that day. I think one of you skied switch off the Pinnacle?

We were clearly about 3 hours too late. Luckily, nobody was hurt or killed. The NWR is sort of a viable bail route with those wet slide conditions we had, since you can sort of ski cut as you traverse. But after considering it more, it was really not a smart time to ski that side.

How much longer do you figure the Bergshrund will be in on the lower NFNWR route?  Was hoping to hit that route this last weekend but car troubles intervened.  Fingers crossed it stays in until this next weekend!

I don't think I'd have the nerve to ski your lines solo. Thanks for sharing!

Kamtron- Thats right! Yea now I remember meeting you and crew up there.

Jordan- I think you should be good to go for another week or two easy. esp with these cooler temps. The crossing I used as an exit was, well maybe not "solid", but certainly "healthy".
F#*K car trouble. In fact F*%K cars! So convenient though...

Mike- I've dredged much useful Beta from these pages. Happy to provide a bit in return.

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june-23-24-2018-mt-adams-n-side-sweetness
YoKid
2018-06-25 10:38:07