Home > Trip Reports > June 2, 2018, Overcoat Peak

June 2, 2018, Overcoat Peak

6/2/18
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Posted by CrystalStevens on 6/3/18 11:29am
Skiing Overcoat Peak made for a long day with lots of route finding/multisport shenanigans. We didn't see a single person all day and the scenery is stunning so it was totally all worth it. Total stats: 16 miles and 1400 ft of biking, 13.5 miles and 5800 ft of hiking/skiing climbing in just under 15 hrs.

Andy, Eliot and I started from the Dingford Creek Trailhead at 6:30 AM to bike the 8 miles on NF-5620 to the Dutch Miller Gap trailhead. The road gets a bit rougher once you pass the Goldmyer turnoff which made for a fast, fun descent on the return. Since you can stash gear at the TH, I'd recommend bring chammy's and at least one beer per person for the ride back. We hiked ~4 miles on the trail until we could see the large cliff rising above the south side of the river at the base of Overcoat. From here, we walked through some thick alder to ford the Middle Fork and get to talus field at the base of the cliffs.


Eliot barely poking through the alder

We followed the Volken book recommendation to climb the couloir instead of going up the Overcoat drainage. The couloir likely would have provided a better ascent route if there was snow on it, but apparently it turns into two scrambly waterfalls divided up by a short scree field in late spring. We exited the upper waterfall towards the right hand side by crawling through some very thick evergreens.


The couloir follows the left snowfinger up to the waterfall (not in the photo)


Coming out of the trees

We started skinning shortly after gaining snow and traveling to the summit from here was really straightforward.


Looking towards Overcoat


Andy looking up at the peak he's been hoping to ski for years!

We booted up the snow finger to the summit climb in good booting conditions. The summit climb is mostly protectable fourth class scrambling once you get around to the northeast side of the rock pyramid. Once down from the summit, the snow finger provided an awesome ski line!

[img width=800 height=599">https://i.imgur.com/5MczxAh.jpg?1" />
Views from the summit!


Ain't nothin' like steep corn!

We decided to head down the overcoat drainage instead of our couloir ascent route. Since both of the two creeks in the main drainage turned into cliffy heavy-flowing waterfalls, we were glad to find a steep, but descendable route through some open trees. From here, we forded the river again (much colder at 5PM than in the morning). This crossing was waist deep instead of the previous mid-thigh but still very crossable. The trail was relatively easy to find again after crossing the river and more thick alder. From there only 12 miles back to the car!
Awesome Awesome Awesome! Wish i'd followed you I've been wanting to do this for years! Fantastic trip. Thanks for the report. It hurts and it inspires. I was on my way to Overcoat from the East this weekend and got skunked by a steep bit that I was unwilling to cross. If I had, maybe I'd have met you on the glacier!

Thanks for the report. Nice work!

author=mikerolfs link=topic=40782.msg161967#msg161967 date=1528079601]
Awesome Awesome Awesome! Wish i'd followed you I've been wanting to do this for years! Fantastic trip. Thanks for the report. It hurts and it inspires. I was on my way to Overcoat from the East this weekend and got skunked by a steep bit that I was unwilling to cross. If I had, maybe I'd have met you on the glacier!

Thanks for the report. Nice work!


I saw your post just before posting mine, it would have been crazy to run into someone up there! The summit ski is totally worth it and I hope you get to do it some time! In case you want it for your next attempt, here are my gpx tracks. I stopped in the middle to save battery so here is a link to my ascent: https://www.gaiagps.com/public/Ip1dUzVuEpSdFYwc2b8TQtsU
and the descent: https://www.gaiagps.com/public/VKCBCVUDY7RXmT4h91YFMJG5/?layer=GaiaTopoRasterFeet

Thanks for the great report - definitely hoping to get up this next season!

"The summit climb is mostly protectable fourth class scrambling once you get around to the northeast side of the rock pyramid."

Did you pitch the scrambling to the summit? Any gear notes? Seems like it could potentially be a spooky solo in ski boots...

author=CrystalStevens link=topic=40782.msg161969#msg161969 date=1528081699]
I saw your post just before posting mine, it would have been crazy to run into someone up there! The summit ski is totally worth it and I hope you get to do it some time! In case you want it for your next attempt, here are my gpx tracks. I stopped in the middle to save battery so here is a link to my ascent: https://www.gaiagps.com/public/Ip1dUzVuEpSdFYwc2b8TQtsU
and the descent: https://www.gaiagps.com/public/VKCBCVUDY7RXmT4h91YFMJG5/?layer=GaiaTopoRasterFeet


Thanks for the track. I might have to go the way you went. I've done that approach once before in fall and got stopped at a boulder field I didn't want to cross with new snow on it hiding the gaps. It's a long drive from Wenatchee to the end of the middle fork and so I keep trying to force it from the east side. Your way makes sense.

Awesome photos!

Nicely done CrystalStevens, that's a killer line I've stared a few times.
How much schwackin'was there from crossing the river to gaining the talus?

author=drescj link=topic=40782.msg161971#msg161971 date=1528109898]
Thanks for the great report - definitely hoping to get up this next season!

"The summit climb is mostly protectable fourth class scrambling once you get around to the northeast side of the rock pyramid."

Did you pitch the scrambling to the summit? Any gear notes? Seems like it could potentially be a spooky solo in ski boots...


We sorta pitched it out in 2 short pitches with a few pieces of pro. Brought a few smaller cams and some nuts. Not a ton of places for gear and the rock isn't great (it's not terrible either) I led in ski boots and it was fine. If solo I would have still brought a rope for a rappel. We did 1 rap and some downclimbing from the summit to get back to the top of the snowfinger.

author=Jake the Brit link=topic=40782.msg161981#msg161981 date=1528134943]
Nicely done CrystalStevens, that's a killer line I've stared a few times.
How much schwackin'was there from crossing the river to gaining the talus?


We only had to fight through alder for ~10 minutes on either side of the river before it opened up. Further northeast of our track looked like much thicker alder though.

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2018-06-03 18:29:06