Mt. Adams South
5/15/18
WA Cascades West Slopes South (Mt Rainier)
3639
5
Spent the last three days down at Adams, a predictable zoo on Memorial day weekend.
Ski info: The South route is skinnable within 1/2-3/4 a mile from the car, so no need for trail shoes yet. There is almost no snow at the trailhead. We climbed the winter route Sunday, which has a few discontinuous carries. Yesterday we went up the not-too corniced ridge left of the summer route and found travel there to be easier with no discontinuous snow. With a roughly 8 a.m. start, we were able to skin to the summit, ski crampons useful. The SW chutes still hold good snow, although the exit traverse/skin has one or two short bare patches. Snow is finally consolidated out there.
Unfortunately, there was a fatality on the mountain some time between Saturday and Sunday. A climber appears to have fallen, my guess is from somewhere near the top of Piker's, and ended up near the bottom of the SW chutes. They were not wearing crampons and appeared to have lost their axe. The SAR teams still had not retrieved the body by yesterday afternoon. My group did not ski down that way on Sunday, but some of our friends did and were quite shocked to find the deceased person. They were able to talk to 911, and eventually were transferred to an operator who was already aware of the incident. My condolences go out to the family and friends.
Ski info: The South route is skinnable within 1/2-3/4 a mile from the car, so no need for trail shoes yet. There is almost no snow at the trailhead. We climbed the winter route Sunday, which has a few discontinuous carries. Yesterday we went up the not-too corniced ridge left of the summer route and found travel there to be easier with no discontinuous snow. With a roughly 8 a.m. start, we were able to skin to the summit, ski crampons useful. The SW chutes still hold good snow, although the exit traverse/skin has one or two short bare patches. Snow is finally consolidated out there.
Unfortunately, there was a fatality on the mountain some time between Saturday and Sunday. A climber appears to have fallen, my guess is from somewhere near the top of Piker's, and ended up near the bottom of the SW chutes. They were not wearing crampons and appeared to have lost their axe. The SAR teams still had not retrieved the body by yesterday afternoon. My group did not ski down that way on Sunday, but some of our friends did and were quite shocked to find the deceased person. They were able to talk to 911, and eventually were transferred to an operator who was already aware of the incident. My condolences go out to the family and friends.
Kamtron - That walk from the end of the snow would have been long in boots! After the sunny weekend it's probably getting longer unless this colder air really slows the melt. Still doable for the willing...
We skied to the Lunch counter on Saturday starting at 1pm. Since our goal was good snow we started late on Sunday working to time our skiing with the best conditions in the SW Chutes. We got gifted with amazing snow all the way down with a 12:45 start from the summit. Early skiers entering the SW chutes were hitting icier conditions when we came over the top of the ridge around noon so timing is critical. The traverse out is a bit thin but still got us almost around to the summer route on snow.
As you stated there was a body at the bottom the chutes; I thought it might have melted out of the snow pack based on the spread of gear. It was a pretty horrible way to end an amazing ski and something that should remind everyone that even if it is "easy" for a big mountain it's still a big mountain. It got even more sobering when we heard someone packing out say "I was more scared than I wanted to be" when they traversed out of the SW chutes at 9k across the south rib.
Be safe everyone!
We skied to the Lunch counter on Saturday starting at 1pm. Since our goal was good snow we started late on Sunday working to time our skiing with the best conditions in the SW Chutes. We got gifted with amazing snow all the way down with a 12:45 start from the summit. Early skiers entering the SW chutes were hitting icier conditions when we came over the top of the ridge around noon so timing is critical. The traverse out is a bit thin but still got us almost around to the summer route on snow.
As you stated there was a body at the bottom the chutes; I thought it might have melted out of the snow pack based on the spread of gear. It was a pretty horrible way to end an amazing ski and something that should remind everyone that even if it is "easy" for a big mountain it's still a big mountain. It got even more sobering when we heard someone packing out say "I was more scared than I wanted to be" when they traversed out of the SW chutes at 9k across the south rib.
Be safe everyone!
To add another perspective to timing, We got up to pikers sooner than expected on Sunday: 10:30 and dropped by 11:30. There was no ice and it was top to bottom corn, - Sounds like later was great also. Not sure how sticky the snow got on the return back to the lot, but it was already baked by 12pm, but still sliding with some turns. My perspective on the Chutes is that they themselves have a very large corn window once the snow pack is consolidated.
I guess lucky for us we must have skied right past the deceased without seeing him, but a solo skier who caught up with us was a bit shocked and asked if we saw the "manakin" - confused by what he had seen. Really a sad situation.
I guess lucky for us we must have skied right past the deceased without seeing him, but a solo skier who caught up with us was a bit shocked and asked if we saw the "manakin" - confused by what he had seen. Really a sad situation.
That is very sad to hear about the fatality.
I will second the recommendation for ski crampons and maybe a whippet or two. While brewing some coffee in the wee hours near South Butte on Sunday I witnessed two separate skinners slide head first down the crescent from just below the corniced ridge. Neither of them appeared to have any tools for arresting their fall at hand, but both came to a stop without any real consequences.
Be safe out there and get it while the getting is good!
I will second the recommendation for ski crampons and maybe a whippet or two. While brewing some coffee in the wee hours near South Butte on Sunday I witnessed two separate skinners slide head first down the crescent from just below the corniced ridge. Neither of them appeared to have any tools for arresting their fall at hand, but both came to a stop without any real consequences.
Be safe out there and get it while the getting is good!
As for timing, we really just needed to sleep until 6, and we managed to score a late "window" Sunday, skiing down around 4:30 pm. I think later would have been even better, although the flats down low were somewhat sticky.
short vid from our trip:
https://vimeo.com/272580471
https://vimeo.com/272580471
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