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| | |-+  TR: 26-28 May - Forbidden-Isolation Traverse
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Author Topic: TR: 26-28 May - Forbidden-Isolation Traverse  (Read 2791 times)
dave095790
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TR: 26-28 May - Forbidden-Isolation Traverse
« on: 05/28/18, 09:24 PM »

Ben contacted me Thursday afternoon for a tour that weekend, and we decided one Forbidden-Isolation link up. 

I'll keep it short with a conditions update and let the photos speak for themselves when I get them loaded.

Sharkfin Col via right hand variation was easy, two short ropes make it easy, one would work with an intermediate anchor. 

Exiting the Boston Glacier onto the Forbidden Glacier was tough, and probably the crux of the whole route.  Steep, boarderline overhanding 5th class moves into steep, near vertical snow (short, only 15 feet) led to easy snow and the Forbidden Glacier.  This is melting out and fast, not sure how long it will last.  I soloed with my pack loaded with skis (so can't be that hard …), and felt okay, if given a rope I would take one, if given pro I would place some. 

Descending to Morane Lake was relatively casual.  We stayed skiers left when entering the trees, and made it to the lake without rappeling utilizng rock ledges and ramps. 

Gaining the Inspiration Glacier looked worse that it actually was.  We took a climbers right option (south facing) up a pile of choss until we made it to snow.  Easy climbing, but very poor quality made any broken hold or sliding footing a big problem.  I threw a rope down once I topped out. 

Bivy on the flat glacier at 6600 was awesome.  About 12 hrs car-camp. 

I could skin to 8700 feet on Eldorado. 

Descent down and across McAllister was straightforward. 

The Col to gain the unamed (on my Garmin) glacier on the south side of the Backbone Ridge, and which leads to the mega traverse was sketchy, but not as bad as gaining Forbidden Glacier.  We met a party of three from Seattle here (started as a party of four).  There were two burgshrunds, the climbing above the lower was not trivial, but everyone soloed with packs and skis.  The climbing above the second where it appeared most people had gone looked insecure (hollow snow, not positive rock feature for feet, etc.) so I opted for a line farther right, meeting at thetop out, probably harder but felt more secure, soloed with a pack loaded with skis (so couldn't be that hard …).  I threw a rope down for Ben.  We beleyed one of the party of three up so that they could have some security - nice chatting with you all.  Not sure how much longer this will last. 

The next hurtle was Isolation Peak, which looked like it would be problematic from afar.  It turned out to be very simple and posed no problem.  Likely a while left before this is out. 

We bivyed on a large, flat rock on the NE side of Isolation.  About 12 hrs camp-camp. 

Rope never came out on the final day, and everything was smooth with great conditions.  We met a really fun couple from Seattle just before skiing under Pyramid, never caught your names but great sharing the exit with you.  A dip in Pyramid Lake is a must-do, worth about a million dollars.  About 9 hrs camp-hwy 20. 

Hitch-Hike took about 1 minute - thanks Patrick and Andy!

Take Away: AMAZING TERRAIN, EVERYWHERE!

42 miles, 18.4k vert

PICS TO FOLLOW
« Last Edit: 05/28/18, 09:29 PM by dave095790 » Logged
dave095790
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Re: TR: 26-28 May - Forbidden-Isolation Traverse
« Reply #1 on: 05/28/18, 09:49 PM »

approaching Boston Basin


* 005_-_Sketcky_Approach.jpg (434.72 KB, 1000x749 - viewed 1265 times.)
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dave095790
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Re: TR: 26-28 May - Forbidden-Isolation Traverse
« Reply #2 on: 05/28/18, 09:49 PM »

Sharkin Col


* 007_-_Sharkin_Col.jpg (229.85 KB, 1000x749 - viewed 1251 times.)
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dave095790
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Re: TR: 26-28 May - Forbidden-Isolation Traverse
« Reply #3 on: 05/28/18, 09:52 PM »

Boston Glacier Exit


* 025_-_Boston_Glacier_Exit.jpg (303.65 KB, 794x1059 - viewed 1249 times.)
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dave095790
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Re: TR: 26-28 May - Forbidden-Isolation Traverse
« Reply #4 on: 05/28/18, 09:53 PM »

Skiing Forbidden Glacier


* 030_-_Skiing_Forbidden_Glacier.jpg (189.44 KB, 794x1059 - viewed 1240 times.)
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dave095790
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Re: TR: 26-28 May - Forbidden-Isolation Traverse
« Reply #5 on: 05/28/18, 09:55 PM »

Ice-Elation
Isolation
Rock Bivy


* 050_-_Ice-Elation_Couloir.jpg (424.73 KB, 1000x749 - viewed 1243 times.)

* 060_-_Isolation_Peak.jpg (369.39 KB, 1000x749 - viewed 1239 times.)

* 070_-_Rock_Bivy.jpg (367.84 KB, 794x1059 - viewed 1245 times.)
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dave095790
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Re: TR: 26-28 May - Forbidden-Isolation Traverse
« Reply #6 on: 05/28/18, 09:56 PM »

Colonial Glacier


* 090A_-_Colonial_Glacier_Ski_Descent.jpg (276.83 KB, 1000x749 - viewed 1231 times.)
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rlsg
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Re: TR: 26-28 May - Forbidden-Isolation Traverse
« Reply #7 on: 05/29/18, 06:57 AM »

Excellent...thanks for posting!!
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skier8484
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Re: TR: 26-28 May - Forbidden-Isolation Traverse
« Reply #8 on: 05/29/18, 07:15 AM »

We met a really fun couple from Seattle just before skiing under Pyramid, never caught your names but great sharing the exit with you.

Ha! - thanks Dave - it was good chatting above the Colonial Glacier and sharing the exit. Killer conditions/route for sure. Sorry for not introducing ourselves, we were still waking up Wink I'm Brian and my wife's name is Megan.

I'll post a TR later this evening with some photos as well.
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mtangeman
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Re: TR: 26-28 May - Forbidden-Isolation Traverse
« Reply #9 on: 05/30/18, 01:40 PM »

Sweet!! Makes me wish I would've skipped work and joined Ben in that endeavor when he extended the invitation. That's some cool terrain. Nice work.
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