June 7-8, 2015, Emmons, IG
6/7/15
2328
0
Mike and I left Seattle around 8am on Sunday morning. After obtaining permits, we left the white river campground a little after 11. Met an awesome older guy out scouting high alpine exposed rock lines who kept our pace fast all the way to the glacier basin camp ground. Transitioned to skis 4.x miles in.
Passed a large IMG group camping half way up IG. Pushed on the the top of the prow where we ran into fellow Alpentalic Mark starting his ski down. Down climb into Schurman was solid although always interesting after dragging big packs up the IG.
The route to the summit had clearly gotten some traffic over the beautiful weekend and was well beaten in. Got some beta from down climbers and rangers. Reports of hollow snow and thin bridges with temps soaring. Slept on right on our pads on the bone dry dirt at Schurman. Stove problems yielded a 10pm bedtime for 12:45am wake up.
After more stove problems, we were able to get a late 2:30am start. We skinned with ski crampons up to the first "crux" which involved crossing a thin ledge with a monster crevasse above and below. Crossed with skis on - questionable decision. Passed a party of 3 awesome guys from Montana also with skis on backs. Transitioned skis to back after this due to pitch, exposure, and variable soft-hollow snow far from ideal for making steep kick turns.
Started the great trudge up the corridor. Lots of holes present, but route was well beaten and the great Emmons stairway was firm. Bergschrund at 13000 was large and incharge, but easily passed on R side bridge. Made the final slog and tagged the summit at 10:45, later than ideal for how warm the temps were.
The snow coming down was super variable, starting out as punch styrofoam and slowly transitioning into deep isothermal mank which worked our tired legs. Great turns though for june down to the ledge crossing. Put skis on back and roped for the crossing. Then skis back on and navigated the lower route. Cracks were larger and more frequent than the AM, often requiring speed and focus.
Reached Schurman around 1:00. Boiled more water and lounged in the HEAT. Opted for the Hazard traverse to boot pack up to the IG rather than the scramble. The IG provided some equally as fantastic deep mank-glue, but was still a blast to rip 8's down.
Skied to the R side of the drainage as opposed to staying high left and taking the trail. Would not recommend this and the water was ripping in the heat. Made the hike as fast as possible, drained and tired. Hit the car around 5 and holy cow was it HOT. Cruised back to Seattle via a much needed burger.
It was a fun ski, but will liked require a much slower, more cautious approach soon due to how broken up the route is becoming. Also due to our fantastic winter, the lower half to schurman presents far more cracks, often just slightly covered.
Thanks Mike for the photos
Passed a large IMG group camping half way up IG. Pushed on the the top of the prow where we ran into fellow Alpentalic Mark starting his ski down. Down climb into Schurman was solid although always interesting after dragging big packs up the IG.
The route to the summit had clearly gotten some traffic over the beautiful weekend and was well beaten in. Got some beta from down climbers and rangers. Reports of hollow snow and thin bridges with temps soaring. Slept on right on our pads on the bone dry dirt at Schurman. Stove problems yielded a 10pm bedtime for 12:45am wake up.
After more stove problems, we were able to get a late 2:30am start. We skinned with ski crampons up to the first "crux" which involved crossing a thin ledge with a monster crevasse above and below. Crossed with skis on - questionable decision. Passed a party of 3 awesome guys from Montana also with skis on backs. Transitioned skis to back after this due to pitch, exposure, and variable soft-hollow snow far from ideal for making steep kick turns.
Started the great trudge up the corridor. Lots of holes present, but route was well beaten and the great Emmons stairway was firm. Bergschrund at 13000 was large and incharge, but easily passed on R side bridge. Made the final slog and tagged the summit at 10:45, later than ideal for how warm the temps were.
The snow coming down was super variable, starting out as punch styrofoam and slowly transitioning into deep isothermal mank which worked our tired legs. Great turns though for june down to the ledge crossing. Put skis on back and roped for the crossing. Then skis back on and navigated the lower route. Cracks were larger and more frequent than the AM, often requiring speed and focus.
Reached Schurman around 1:00. Boiled more water and lounged in the HEAT. Opted for the Hazard traverse to boot pack up to the IG rather than the scramble. The IG provided some equally as fantastic deep mank-glue, but was still a blast to rip 8's down.
Skied to the R side of the drainage as opposed to staying high left and taking the trail. Would not recommend this and the water was ripping in the heat. Made the hike as fast as possible, drained and tired. Hit the car around 5 and holy cow was it HOT. Cruised back to Seattle via a much needed burger.
It was a fun ski, but will liked require a much slower, more cautious approach soon due to how broken up the route is becoming. Also due to our fantastic winter, the lower half to schurman presents far more cracks, often just slightly covered.
Thanks Mike for the photos
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