October 16, 2005, Volcan Lanin, Argentina
10/16/05
South America
2847
6
This starts the second part of our Patagonia journey - skiing volcanos in Argentina and Chile. There are extra details for the guys coming next month and anyone planning a future adventure to this area.
We departed Bariloche and used the paved road to Junin de los Andes which is about 220km. Mainly arrid terrain. Junin is the self proclaimed trout capital of the province and all the street signs are in the shape of fish. We stayed at Hosteria Chimenin a fishing lodge. Our room was above the stream with horses in the nearby pasture. The room was 70p(23USD) including breakfast. A nice place to stay. Spent the evening at the local talent show in the plaza. Guitar playing and singing till late that evening under a full moon.
Next morning we drove the 60km over mostly paved road to Pass Tromen at 1140m. Once you enter Parque Nacional Lanin the road is gravel but the scenery goes upward with the snow covered hillsides with Monkey Puzzle trees. This is the standard approach route to climb Lanin at 3776m. As we approached the clear skies began to have significant clouds rolling in. Once at the trailhead the summit was covered and we decided to wait. The ranger station is new as well as the new bathrooms which were a surprise. While waiting 2 guide wannabes from Revelstoke came walking out with skis on their backs. The young couple spent 3 days on the mountain and summited the previous day in windless conditions which is unusual. There are 3 refugios on the climbing route but the upper one is totally snowed in and not functioning. The other 2 refugios provide basic shelter. A roof but no table or chairs or anything - so bring everything. The ranger appeared and requested their permit. The ranger will check all climbers or skiers for all the standard safety gear plus ice axe, crampons and a programmable radio(go figure) - the Canadians talked their way around the radio.After chating a bit, this was the couple we heard about while at our Spanish class who were at the same school a few weeks earlier. There was no snow at the trailhead and required a 1 hour hike before reaching the snowline at the lateral moraine. With the clouds thickening, we decided to drive east then north to Alumine a big whitewater rafting village. We then traveled north and then east over a snow covered plateau before descending to Zapala. The route to Zapala was over mainly gravel road that was bearable due to the great mountain scenery. It reminded us of Eastern Washington in winter. Volcan Lanin is a wonderful climb and an ice axe and crampons would be necessary for the upper section per our Revelstoke friends. The ski descent sounded wonderfully steep at the top. You just need the weather window. More volcanos ahead.
Zap y Jill
More photos here: http://zapjillski.smugmug.com/gallery/1026706/1/47597084
We departed Bariloche and used the paved road to Junin de los Andes which is about 220km. Mainly arrid terrain. Junin is the self proclaimed trout capital of the province and all the street signs are in the shape of fish. We stayed at Hosteria Chimenin a fishing lodge. Our room was above the stream with horses in the nearby pasture. The room was 70p(23USD) including breakfast. A nice place to stay. Spent the evening at the local talent show in the plaza. Guitar playing and singing till late that evening under a full moon.
Next morning we drove the 60km over mostly paved road to Pass Tromen at 1140m. Once you enter Parque Nacional Lanin the road is gravel but the scenery goes upward with the snow covered hillsides with Monkey Puzzle trees. This is the standard approach route to climb Lanin at 3776m. As we approached the clear skies began to have significant clouds rolling in. Once at the trailhead the summit was covered and we decided to wait. The ranger station is new as well as the new bathrooms which were a surprise. While waiting 2 guide wannabes from Revelstoke came walking out with skis on their backs. The young couple spent 3 days on the mountain and summited the previous day in windless conditions which is unusual. There are 3 refugios on the climbing route but the upper one is totally snowed in and not functioning. The other 2 refugios provide basic shelter. A roof but no table or chairs or anything - so bring everything. The ranger appeared and requested their permit. The ranger will check all climbers or skiers for all the standard safety gear plus ice axe, crampons and a programmable radio(go figure) - the Canadians talked their way around the radio.After chating a bit, this was the couple we heard about while at our Spanish class who were at the same school a few weeks earlier. There was no snow at the trailhead and required a 1 hour hike before reaching the snowline at the lateral moraine. With the clouds thickening, we decided to drive east then north to Alumine a big whitewater rafting village. We then traveled north and then east over a snow covered plateau before descending to Zapala. The route to Zapala was over mainly gravel road that was bearable due to the great mountain scenery. It reminded us of Eastern Washington in winter. Volcan Lanin is a wonderful climb and an ice axe and crampons would be necessary for the upper section per our Revelstoke friends. The ski descent sounded wonderfully steep at the top. You just need the weather window. More volcanos ahead.
Zap y Jill
More photos here: http://zapjillski.smugmug.com/gallery/1026706/1/47597084
Thats not fair Zap. We need pictures!!! I wanna see some pics. You get me all hot and sweaty with this talk of Southern volcanoes, yet provide no photos for me. Ya got any photos...please say you do. I need something to satisfy me! I'll be down there rippin in the future...
I've spent six weeks in the past couple of years snowboarding volcanos (and regular mountains, and the odd handrail ...) in the part of the Andes you're in. Now I'm addicted and arranging my life to summer in the region, paid if possible. Of course everyone else should stay away because it really isn't a worthwhile trip ;)
If you stay in Pucon the Ecole hostel is a nice place -- kind staff, good food and the beds are better than what I sleep on at home. Jessica at the front desk has managed things there for a while -- she's pregnant and probably getting big by now. Nice girl.
There is a pretty good restaurant/hang out on a corner on the main drag (O'Higgins) called Trawen. It's owned by Pamela Yolito, another really nice woman who recently had a child. She's a whitewater maniac, and if not at home with baby worth saying hi to too. The food at her place is healthy and very good, and, if the teenage Brazilian waitress is still there, served with a certain je ne sais quoi (or, rather, whatever that means in portuguese).
There are many, many more "locals" in Pucon (meaning long-term drop-outs from Santiago) who are really cool, fully into the outdoors scene, and happy to tip a beer or share a meal with mellow, like-minded people. This town is the kind of place where you can spend a week and leave with a dozen email addresses that you actually intend to use when you get home. Lucky you!
If you stay in Pucon the Ecole hostel is a nice place -- kind staff, good food and the beds are better than what I sleep on at home. Jessica at the front desk has managed things there for a while -- she's pregnant and probably getting big by now. Nice girl.
There is a pretty good restaurant/hang out on a corner on the main drag (O'Higgins) called Trawen. It's owned by Pamela Yolito, another really nice woman who recently had a child. She's a whitewater maniac, and if not at home with baby worth saying hi to too. The food at her place is healthy and very good, and, if the teenage Brazilian waitress is still there, served with a certain je ne sais quoi (or, rather, whatever that means in portuguese).
There are many, many more "locals" in Pucon (meaning long-term drop-outs from Santiago) who are really cool, fully into the outdoors scene, and happy to tip a beer or share a meal with mellow, like-minded people. This town is the kind of place where you can spend a week and leave with a dozen email addresses that you actually intend to use when you get home. Lucky you!
Zap, looking forward to hearing about the tour as it unfolds.
Interesting about the Lanin Park Ranger checking permits. The scenery changes, but the red tape stays the same, eh? We found regulations in the region (at least when I toured) were determined (as in the States) by the amount of development around the Volcan. We never ran into any Rangers (well, I didn't, but my touring friend was nabbed on Villarica the week after I left. When we skied it, we were the unknowing "banditos norteamericanos", having declined the manditory $50 guide for a summit bid).
What I can tell you is that we were able to ski 6 of the Lakes Region volcanoes and never paid a cent for permits. Slumming international stylee. Hope you have similar luck!
Interesting about the Lanin Park Ranger checking permits. The scenery changes, but the red tape stays the same, eh? We found regulations in the region (at least when I toured) were determined (as in the States) by the amount of development around the Volcan. We never ran into any Rangers (well, I didn't, but my touring friend was nabbed on Villarica the week after I left. When we skied it, we were the unknowing "banditos norteamericanos", having declined the manditory $50 guide for a summit bid).
What I can tell you is that we were able to ski 6 of the Lakes Region volcanoes and never paid a cent for permits. Slumming international stylee. Hope you have similar luck!
´Matt-when I return home I´'ll post some photos. Skiing among monkey puzzle trees is rather memorable.
Hankj - just read your info on Pucon after our arrival. Staying at La Tetera, run by a Swiss couple. We will eat at Trawn today.
M88888 - we could be another bandito couple when we cilimb/ski Volcan Villarica without a permit.
More volcano reports today. It has been an incredible adventure.
Zap
Hankj - just read your info on Pucon after our arrival. Staying at La Tetera, run by a Swiss couple. We will eat at Trawn today.
M88888 - we could be another bandito couple when we cilimb/ski Volcan Villarica without a permit.
More volcano reports today. It has been an incredible adventure.
Zap
RAD!!
Skiing among monkey puzzle trees is rather memorable.
MY OH MY!!
snow, skiing, mountains, and one of my favorite trees!!
you've just got to share photos of this!
best for safe travels,
jessica
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