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| | |-+  August 23, 2014, Sherman Peak via Talum Glacier
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Author Topic: August 23, 2014, Sherman Peak via Talum Glacier  (Read 2911 times)

Posts: 46

August 23, 2014, Sherman Peak via Talum Glacier
« on: 08/28/14, 01:28 PM »

We climbed Sherman Peak via the Squak/Talum Glacier. Started up at around 4AM at car and took us about 7.5h to get to the summit pyramid.

Looking at the route from the ridge below the Squak glacier, we were torn on going up Baker (again) or trying our luck on Sherman. We climbed initially towards Baker, because the glacier looked all broken up around 6200 where you would typically make your way over to Sulphur Moraine. 500ft later "again" was just not that inspiring and we changed our objective back to Sherman. This led us to try to cross over to Sulphur Moraine near 6800.

Crossing at 6600-6800

We were ready for disappointment, but it worked out - though it was a hassle crossing over at that elevation. Chances are that area will become soon impassible. Once we made our way over to Talum glacier, things were a lot more straight forward. There was some rock fall at around 7300, but with a wide arc the hazard was manageable, crevasses were a non-issue. We booted once the Talum glacier becomes steeper near 7400 all the way to the top. The big crevasse at the top of the first steep pitch (8200) almost connects all the way across. We took our time to make sure the bridged section was not fragile and eventually made it across.

Crevasse at 8200

Traversing bridge at 8200

The rest of the climb was uneventful except some minor rock fall near 9000 (2-3 rocks, very small). Attempted the summit pyramid, but 6ft in I got cold feet and left it. It seemed easier to throw the top of the mountain off than climbing up. Anything you touch comes down. This was disappointing as I was hoping to make the top.

Pinacle at around 9000

At summit pyramid with Baker summit in background

On the way down we had high speed corn in perfect condition. No stickiness, till we walked off at the very bottom. We were able to confidently side step the precarious section at 8200.

Side stepping the gap at 8200

At Pt 5969T we did not cross back the way we came up, instead we followed the west side of Sulphur moraine down and crossed westward at 6200. The glacier is bare there, but it was trivial to walk off with aluminum crampons.

Tracks Smiley

On another note, be aware of small mud slides when going over rock ridges there. I stepped onto a mix of rocks and dirt near 6000 to cross over a rocky band. It definitely looked dry, but my leg went in to my knee and everything started sliding around me. Totally caught me by surprise. The sun must have dried the surface making this very misleading.

Overall fun trip.


Posts: 112

Re: August 23, 2014, Sherman Peak via Talum Glacier
« Reply #1 on: 08/28/14, 03:41 PM »

Nice trip! Cool to see it connectable in late season conditions.
That unstable Talum GOOOO is something else!
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