October 9, 2005, La Hoya, Esquel,Argentina

This will be our last lift served ski report because all the ski areas are closing.They also celebrate Columbus Day and that is usually the last day of operation.  We drove the 300km from Bariloche south thru the spectacular mountains to El Bolson and finally to Esquel.  The road is paved and took about 4 to 5 hours depending upon the number of police stops, document reviews and hidden speed bumps.  This was a holiday weekend and we arrived without a room reservation so our Spanish was tested.  <br><br>Saturday the 9th was overcast and we drove the 14km from town up a dusty gravel road that wound its way up to the ski area.  We saw our first guanco(lama family) grazing along the road.  The wind was howling down the canyon and the light was flat at the ski area.  The ski area is almost completely above tree line so except for the rockbands the light was flat.  We decided to head back to town and locate some friends in town.  We returned to our hosteleria(small family owned hotel) to find our new friends Marcelo y Claudia standing in the lobby looking for us.  <br><br>The following has nothing to do with skiing but it has everything to do with the wonderful people you can meet and they make the trips so incredible.  We met M y C thru the internet via Silas. They are high school teachers in their early 30 who moved to Esquel from Buenos Aires last year without a job or place to stay. They moved into a refugio(hut) in the mountains with free rent until they found jobs a few months later.  They now teach in 3 different schools in the region and commute by bus and walking - no car. Their small and beautiful apartment has no refrigerator so they buy items daily at a small store across the street. BUT the view of the mountains from their door is worth a million.  They are part of an Argentine mountain hike and climbing group and share gear for climbs.  They lack ice axes, crampons,.. yet climb like the early climbers of the Cascades. We spent the day hiking locally and stayed at their place. They let us sleep in their bed.  It was an incredible experience with warm and sharing folks.<br><br>OK, the ski report.  Sunday the 10th was sunny, no wind and warm.  We returned to La Hoya and purchased 2 senior tickets for a total of 38 pesos($13USD).  The area has a double that rises into a basin that opens to a large cirque that has numerous doubles, T-bars and a couple pomas.  We followed the sun as it softened the slopes.  We booted to the top ridge above the cornices and captured the surrounding terrain on film.  It was like being at the top of Heavenly and looking over to the Nevada side and seeing shades of brown.  Then looking over to the snow capped peaks.  It was a cornfest.  After a few hours, we traversed past the area and skied some steep lines back to the base.  The area was the smallest we visited and the terrain is ideal for a sunny day with plenty of bowls and valleys.The area is rarely crowded and is a day use area.<br><br>The drive back included a long stop in El Bolson for homemade ice cream at Jaujia.  The firm has a store in Bariloche and is famous for their numerous and fresh flavors. It was a long and hot drive back to Bariloche.  Jill has a cold so I watched her sleep as I tried to keep my eyes on the road versus the magnificient mountains between El Bolson and Bariloche.Looking at the peaks so close gets the mountaineering juices flowing.  The river rafter are just starting their season.<br><br>Spanish school ends the 14th and another phase of the adventure begins.  We head north to ski volcanos in Argentina and Chile plus soak a bit in some hot springs. Our Spanish skills will be tested because the areas we are heading to really do not see many American tourists.  Our smiles and pointing skills will help.<br><br>Chao, Zap y Jill<br> <br><br>More photos here: zapjillski.smugmug.com/gallery/1026452/1/47586830

Thanks for the report, Zap. You're living the dream!