October 2, 2005, Chapelco,St. Martin de los Andes

The weekend weather forecast was typical NW, partly cloudy with showers and sun. We drove to Cerro Bayo, near the resort village of Villa la Angostura.  The ski area is across the lake from Bariloche and took us 2 hours to drive the 55 miles. Double yellow road lines mean nothing.  Pass if and when you can is the norm.  We arrived at the ski area to a light drizzle that turned to wet snow. We applied Rule number 1 - never ski in the rain.  Then Rule number 2 - never violate Rule number 1.<br><br>Cerro Bayo has a nice mix of trees and bowls with mainly double chairs.  Although it was closing the next day, we decided to drive to Chapelco ski resort near St. Martin de los Andes(SMD).  The scenic Seven Lakes Route is a very popular road.  It is about 120km from Cerro Bayo to SMD of which 70 km is unpaved surface of dirt, rock, gravel - it makes a logging road look appealing.  Although we could only drive at 20 - 30 kph, the scenery was spectacular.  The serpentine road is rimmed with snowcapped peaks, rivers, lakes and plenty of unusual birds. The 120km took us about 5 hours.<br><br>We spent the evening in the Puma Hostel in SMD. Our private room with bath had cathedral ceilings and woodwork for $14USD. Went out for a steak, beer and banana split dinner for $15USD. Yeah, Argentina is very reasonable.  <br><br>The next morning we drove the 20km to Chapelco ski resort. It was a sunny and windless day. The area has a gondola, quads, doubles, T-bar and puma lifts. The lower slopes have beech trees well spaced with mistletoe drapped from the limbs. The upper slopes have bowls on the front and backside with rocklined access points to the backcountry that dumps you back to the ski trails.  The bottom 100 meters was melted out.  No problem because there is plenty of terrain from the mid station.  Lift tickets were $12USD for Jills senior ticket and I had to pay $14USD.  It was another great spring skiing day with a total of less than 200 people skiing the resort.  We skied outside the boundaries where the terrain was steep and smooth.  Even the trees were enjoyable. The views west to the Andes were spectacular. Volcan Lanin which is near the Chilean border was imposing.  It is on our list to ski in  a couple of weeks. <br><br>Our return drive to Bariloche via route 63 was gravel for 70km.  The terrain reminds us of the desert Southwest with rock pinnacles.  Spanish school begins 3 October so our weekdays will be busy.  We hope to travel south 300km to Esquel next weekend and ski Cerro La Hoya before it close on 12 October.  May stop by Butch Casidy and Sundance Kids old homestead in Choilla if we get off the mountain in time.<br><br>So far we can confirm that the cost of traveling in this region is CHEAP. The mountains are big, the terrain is untouched, the chocolate is wonderful and the beef and beer is great and CHEAP.<br><br>Chao, Zap and Jill<br><br> <br><br>More photos:  zapjillski.smugmug.com/gallery/1006126/1/46552219

Sounds like an amazing trip, and one that I have been very much hoping to do. Last spring I was using your postings to gauge snow conditions in the Sierras before my own (much shorter) tour, now I am drooling over the time in Patagonia. I am very interested in hearing how you like the Spanish school in Bariloche -- it is something that i would like to do, and it sounds like an amazing place to do it. Best of luck and thanks for the reports.<br><br>Ross Macfarlane.

Ross,<br><br>There are numerous Spanish Immersion schools in Bariloche which has a population of almost 100,000. We are attending ABC Spanish School. Do a Google search on Spanish Immersion Schools and start surfing. As a reference point, Jill and I have a 2 week course of 20 hours per week with a private instructor, a 2 week homestay with a local family with breakfast(coffee and toast) and dinner at 8:30 pm(typical Argentine dinner time) plus a couple of local tours for $875USD.<br><br>This is spring time and the town is between tourist seasons so it is not crowded and we can enjoy the area.<br><br>I have not posted any photos but try imagine a Lake Tahoe setting with mountains and terrain with a bit of Chamoinix(sp). Naturally, you have a South American setting and cheap prices. When we return, I can provide details.<br><br>This is definitely the place where some of the younger TAY first descent crowd could thrive. <br><br>If only I were a wee bit younger. <br><br>Zap

Great report Zap!  It is great to hear about these places since we were interested in visiting that area.  It provides motivation to go back.  It is also good to hear about the spanish school.  In retrospect that would have been a good thing to do with our non-skiing time. Hopefully when you get back you will post some photos. <br><br>

Thanks, Zap. Won't be able to swing it for this season, but it sounds amazing for a future opportunity. I will try to get in a week of language school in Oaxaca with my 13 year old son. Keep the reports coming!