Home > Trip Reports > June 7-8, Mt. Rainier, Kautz Glacier

June 7-8, Mt. Rainier, Kautz Glacier

6/7/14
WA Cascades West Slopes South (Mt Rainier)
6560
6
Posted by Susan Ashlock on 6/18/14 12:54pm
Longer story on my blog (http://susanrashlock.blogspot.com/2014/06/rainier-via-kautz-route-june-7-8-2014.html).
And photos on flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/susanashlock/sets/72157644696156689/

Here's the skinny:
Up and down the Kautz Glacier.
Placed one screw on the second ice pitch on the way up; belayed part of that pitch on the way down.  Gully with fixed line a bit tricky to get up.  (Prussiked!).  Altitude == slow.  Skiing: "packed powder" at the top, pretty good around 12k, corny fun on the Turtle, super-mushy below ~8k (~5:30 p.m.). Overall, a fun and satisfying trip!

Timeline
Saturday -
7:45 a.m. - Leave Seattle
10:45 a.m. - arrive Paradise
11:45 a.m. - start from Paradise lower lot
4:40 p.m. - base of Turtle
7 p.m.  - Arrive at camp at 11,200'

Sunday -
4 a.m. - Awake
5:20 a.m. - Leave Camp
7:45 a.m. - Done with Ice steps
10:20 a.m. - top of Kautz Glacier (near Point Success, 14,000')
11:00 a.m. - Arrive Summit
11:50 p.m. - Depart summit
2:30 p.m. - Done with descent of first pitch
4:30 p.m. - back at camp
5 p.m. - Leave camp
6:30 - back at Paradise lower lot

Equipment:
* 60m 8mil rope
* Petzl Quark ice tool
* Grivel Air Tech Evo ice axe
* 6 screws total (used max of 2 at once)
* Skis, boots, poles
* Beacon, shovel, probe
* Lightweight 3-season tent

Weather:
Some clouds (mostly below us, except on Saturday)
Summit: around 20 degrees, 30-40 mph winds (less just south of summit)
Great TR and photos.  ;)

WOW!  VERY COOL EVERYTHING--THANKS!

Nice work, Susan.

great photos & trip!

thanks for the report.  Looks like good conditions and good times!

Their fox sighting is notable -- has anyone else seen foxes on Rainier above 13k?

Dee Molenaar reports bears, porcupines, and ground squirrels here, but anything larger than a mouse or marmot is a surprise!

Reply to this TR

12029
june-7-8-mt-rainier-kautz-glacier
Susan Ashlock
2014-06-18 19:54:46