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| | |-+  June 7-8, Mt. Rainier, Kautz Glacier
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Author Topic: June 7-8, Mt. Rainier, Kautz Glacier  (Read 5370 times)
Susan Ashlock
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June 7-8, Mt. Rainier, Kautz Glacier
« on: 06/18/14, 08:54 PM »

Longer story on my blog (http://susanrashlock.blogspot.com/2014/06/rainier-via-kautz-route-june-7-8-2014.html).
And photos on flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/susanashlock/sets/72157644696156689/

Here's the skinny:
Up and down the Kautz Glacier.
Placed one screw on the second ice pitch on the way up; belayed part of that pitch on the way down.  Gully with fixed line a bit tricky to get up.  (Prussiked!).  Altitude == slow.  Skiing: "packed powder" at the top, pretty good around 12k, corny fun on the Turtle, super-mushy below ~8k (~5:30 p.m.). Overall, a fun and satisfying trip!

Timeline
Saturday -
7:45 a.m. - Leave Seattle
10:45 a.m. - arrive Paradise
11:45 a.m. - start from Paradise lower lot
4:40 p.m. - base of Turtle
7 p.m.  - Arrive at camp at 11,200'

Sunday -
4 a.m. - Awake
5:20 a.m. - Leave Camp
7:45 a.m. - Done with Ice steps
10:20 a.m. - top of Kautz Glacier (near Point Success, 14,000')
11:00 a.m. - Arrive Summit
11:50 p.m. - Depart summit
2:30 p.m. - Done with descent of first pitch
4:30 p.m. - back at camp
5 p.m. - Leave camp
6:30 - back at Paradise lower lot

Equipment:
* 60m 8mil rope
* Petzl Quark ice tool
* Grivel Air Tech Evo ice axe
* 6 screws total (used max of 2 at once)
* Skis, boots, poles
* Beacon, shovel, probe
* Lightweight 3-season tent

Weather:
Some clouds (mostly below us, except on Saturday)
Summit: around 20 degrees, 30-40 mph winds (less just south of summit)


* Two_ice_steps_viewed_from_near_camp_compressed.jpg (37.07 KB, 448x336 - viewed 1049 times.)
« Last Edit: 06/18/14, 09:12 PM by Susan Ashlock » Logged
Zap
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Re: June 7-8, Mt. Rainier, Kautz Glacier
« Reply #1 on: 06/19/14, 07:59 AM »

Great TR and photos.  Wink
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rlsg
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Posts: 516


Re: June 7-8, Mt. Rainier, Kautz Glacier
« Reply #2 on: 06/19/14, 12:50 PM »

WOW!  VERY COOL EVERYTHING--THANKS!
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ron j
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Posts: 2580


Re: June 7-8, Mt. Rainier, Kautz Glacier
« Reply #3 on: 06/19/14, 04:39 PM »

Nice work, Susan.
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"When I stop having fun I'm turnin' around"
"Prediction is very difficult, especially if it's about the future." - Niels Bohr
"If a given person makes it a priority not to die in an avalanche, he or she stands a very good chance of living a long, happy life in the mountains." - Jill Fredston
Andrew Carey
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Re: June 7-8, Mt. Rainier, Kautz Glacier
« Reply #4 on: 06/19/14, 06:24 PM »

great photos & trip!
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... want your own private skintrack? Better move to the yukon dude. (B'ham Allen, 2011).
...USA: government of the people by corporate proxies for business.

Andy Carey, Nisqually Park, 3500 feet below Paradise
cumulus
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Posts: 432


Re: June 7-8, Mt. Rainier, Kautz Glacier
« Reply #5 on: 06/20/14, 07:22 AM »

thanks for the report.  Looks like good conditions and good times!
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Stefan
Charlie Hagedorn
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Re: June 7-8, Mt. Rainier, Kautz Glacier
« Reply #6 on: 06/20/14, 09:54 AM »

Their fox sighting is notable -- has anyone else seen foxes on Rainier above 13k?

Dee Molenaar reports bears, porcupines, and ground squirrels here, but anything larger than a mouse or marmot is a surprise!
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