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| | |-+  June 8, 2014, Mt. Hood,South route to Wy'east face
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Author Topic: June 8, 2014, Mt. Hood,South route to Wy'east face  (Read 3967 times)
heinzsd
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Re: June 8, 2014, Mt. Hood,South route to Wy'east face
« on: 06/09/14, 03:52 PM »

I have been dreaming of skiing the Wy' East face ever since seeing the dramatic peak towering over the Hood Meadows ski resort a few years back. Last year a group of three of us tried to ice climb the Sandy Glacier headwall and carry-over to the Wy' East but our pace was too slow and the exposed traverse was to sun baked so we skied the Normal route.

This time the plan was to climb the leuthold couloir and carry over to the Wy' East.  Because of the east aspect and east facing exposed traverse we decided on leaving at 3am.    During the wee hours of the morning some yokel teenagers decided they wanted to scream their heads of and bash in one of their pick-up trucks.  This culminated in them slamming it against the barriers as climbers began to awake for their peaceful ascent.

at 5:30 we were at illumination saddle and got word that the Leuthold was not in great shape.  Instead of traversing around to see for ourselves we changed course to follow the hordes headed up the standard south route.    I was moving slowly after the trek up Adams the day before, but we still made ok time to the summit.   We traverse over the summit and decided to rope up and do running belays down the exposed 50 degree slope and across the loose rock.  It was shortly before 9 and the snow had softened a bit but was still stable.  The choss traverse was a bit loose and exposed but mostly secure. Glad we used the rope since it was loose.

We dropped in right around 10am to a perfect fall line pitch with excellent corn.  It felt like the cherry on top after the excellent run on the chutes the day before and it was great to finally get on this imposing face.  The only complaint was that the pitch didn't go on longer.   The traverse to timberline was fairly straight forward though we had to boot across some sandy moraine for a few minutes.

I'm somewhat surprised we don't see more reports from these other routes on hood given the ease of access.  Only saw 4 other skiers on the face that day, with hundreds on the other route.


* Wyeastsh1one1.jpg (174.42 KB, 1000x585 - viewed 874 times.)

* wyEastshtwo.jpg (203.17 KB, 894x592 - viewed 832 times.)

* wyeastsh2three3.jpg (207.06 KB, 1000x562 - viewed 889 times.)
« Last Edit: 06/09/14, 04:42 PM by heinzsd » Logged
Winter
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Re: June 8, 2014, Mt. Hood,South route to Wy'east face
« Reply #1 on: 06/09/14, 05:21 PM »

Thanks for the TR.  Did you get a look at the conditions on the Newton Clark headwall?
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tabski
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Re: June 8, 2014, Mt. Hood,South route to Wy'east face
« Reply #2 on: 06/09/14, 05:23 PM »

Looks awesome! I'm not very familiar with Hood, any advice on how much longer the NE - N - NW sides of the mountain may be in good ski condition?

Also, get saucer boy a helmet.
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heinzsd
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Re: June 8, 2014, Mt. Hood,South route to Wy'east face
« Reply #3 on: 06/09/14, 05:53 PM »

Does the Newton-Clark headwall drop in about 50' from the true summit?  Some folks dropped in and it looked very good, though we didn't have beta on the exit so let them be.  The tracks did have an exit, so I would guess the north side is good. Seems west facing aspects aren't doing so well, but didn't wrap along far enough to know for sure.
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Zap
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Re: June 8, 2014, Mt. Hood,South route to Wy'east face
« Reply #4 on: 06/09/14, 10:53 PM »

I enjoyed your TR and photo of your ski line.  Being old, my wife and I climbed the Wy' east face in mid May.  We stopped at 10,700' . It was a nice steep line for 40 degrees of corn for about 1300vf then arrived at Meadows. It was a long time ago. Wink
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heinzsd
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Re: June 8, 2014, Mt. Hood,South route to Wy'east face
« Reply #5 on: 06/09/14, 10:56 PM »

Went back and did my research.  Newton Clark headwall is just next to Wy'east and saw an old track down it.  Looked in great shape.  The other route people dropped into I believe was cooper spur and that also looked in top form, though couldnt see the steeper bits.
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kamtron
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Re: June 8, 2014, Mt. Hood,South route to Wy'east face
« Reply #6 on: 06/09/14, 11:31 PM »

Also, get saucer boy a helmet.

Probably sweating balls in that hat and one-piece
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flowing alpy
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Re: June 8, 2014, Mt. Hood,South route to Wy'east face
« Reply #7 on: 06/10/14, 06:03 PM »

outfit looks marvelous!
bF
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harg
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Posts: 10


Re: June 8, 2014, Mt. Hood,South route to Wy'east face
« Reply #8 on: 06/12/14, 09:14 AM »

nice downclimb! that's an intimidating view. for the future, you can make the run a little longer by either starting from Meadows or shuttling a car and ending up at Meadows. that gives you a run from the top of wy'east/newton through super bowl and into heather canyon. the bottom section isn't as steep or fun as the top (other than a short chute into heather if you stay high on the ridge), but it adds a couple thousand feet of legit skiing as opposed to glorified traversing back to t-line. if you drop all the way into heather you have to do a short hike or traverse out of the canyon, but it's worth it if the snow is in good shape.
Do you have any detail on why leuthold was in bad shape; too soft, rock fall, cracks ...? i've been hoping to ski that but have no idea what it's like right now.
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