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| | |-+  May 26, 2014 The Grand, Ford-Stettner
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Author Topic: May 26, 2014 The Grand, Ford-Stettner  (Read 12195 times)
jtrue
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May 26, 2014 The Grand, Ford-Stettner
« on: 05/27/14, 10:04 PM »

Last minute trips are the best kind of trips.  Had a rehearsal dinner and wedding last weekend, but got a text from Ian asking if I wanted to ski the Grand with Matt on a day trip from SLC Memorial Day.  A resounding "YUP" was sent, if there is such a thing via text.
 
We left SLC around 3:30 on Sunday and made our way to Jackson, stopping along the way for the food that would fuel our ascent.  Made it into Jackson around 9:00 and setup camp, which consisted of pads and sleeping bags thrown down in the grass, at the Lupine Meadows trail head. 

Rolling into the park we were met with views of the Grand


We were surprised to see the lot fairly empty with just a couple cars.  Another group from CO and AK came over to chat about logistics, which ropes to bring, etc.  We happily shared beta, as I had climbed/skied it before, and introduced ourselves.  The wake up call would come early, and we all set alarms for around 2:20.


THE ASCENT
When the alarm clock went off I woke up easily and got to preparing gear and eating a quick breakfast.  Ian and Matt did the same.  We started off in shoes for the hike with skis and boots strapped to our packs.  We didn't know what to expect as far as snow line, but knew it would be patchy at lower elevations.  Got on the trail around 3:00.  We made good time and hit the meadows as the sun started to rise.



Switched to boots and skis to start skinning but soon found that booting was the most efficient form of travel as soon as it got steep. 


We quickly made our way up to the toe of the Teepee Glacier and took a quick break to eat and drink.  At this point the sun was just starting to shed some rays on the toe of the Teepee.  Conditions on the Teepee were firm which made for efficient travel, yes!

Matt ascending towards the Teepee Col


Ian on our way from the Teepee Col to the Glencoe Col


We started up the Stettner and caught up to a roped group, they let us by and we soloed up past them, carefully placing picks and front points in the partially frozen water fall.  Ian trying not to step on the parties rope as we ascend the Stettner.


Me doing the same


And Matt following


We let the efficient pace go to our heads and somehow charged ahead past the Chevy, we realized we had made a mistake once we arrived at an unfamiliar chockstone in the Stettner.  Time to downclimb and ascend the Chevy.  DOH!


Looking up the Chevy, hey at least the feet are good!


I soloed up the ice bulges and threw a line down to Matt to belay him up over the one overhanging bulge, same for Ian. 

Matt making his way up


At this point the roped party had caught up and we delayed them for a moment, sorry!  After the crux we continued to solo up to the toe of the Ford.


As we reached the toe of the Ford the sun had barley started to light our way to the top, Ian charging


Matt following


Ian happy to hit the summit ridge!


Matt also happy, he was smiling, really


I lead off on our way to zee top!


Obligitory summit photos






THE DESCENT

To Be Continued...
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danpeck
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Re: May 26, 2014 The Grand, Ford-Stettner
« Reply #1 on: 05/28/14, 08:35 AM »

Nice.  Can't wait for part 2.
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Rowan Stewart
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Re: May 26, 2014 The Grand, Ford-Stettner
« Reply #2 on: 05/28/14, 05:47 PM »

sweet photos! Its cool to see a splitboarder climbing with guys sporting skimo gear - nice work! I'm also stoked to see part two...
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rlsg
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Re: May 26, 2014 The Grand, Ford-Stettner
« Reply #3 on: 05/28/14, 07:27 PM »

Sounds awesome--unfortunately I can't see any of the photos...
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jtrue
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Re: May 26, 2014 The Grand, Ford-Stettner
« Reply #4 on: 05/28/14, 08:14 PM »

Hmm, might have hit my bandwidth limit for the month on photobucket.  Time to upgrade.

Welp, wasn't that.  Not sure why you can't see the pics.  Anyone else having issues?
« Last Edit: 05/28/14, 08:48 PM by jtrue » Logged
mikerolfs
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Re: May 26, 2014 The Grand, Ford-Stettner
« Reply #5 on: 05/28/14, 09:06 PM »

Sounds awesome--unfortunately I can't see any of the photos...

They show up for me.
this one is pretty amazing:

I can't wait to see the ski photos. 
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Kyle Miller
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Re: May 26, 2014 The Grand, Ford-Stettner
« Reply #6 on: 05/28/14, 09:38 PM »

Matt is such a great guy and a very competent ski mountaineer.

Been very fortunate to have toured with him a small bit in the Wasatch.

Please tell him I said hello.
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In a perfect world, everybody would act with the correct etiquette and follow the rules. Human nature as it is= NOT GOING TO HAPPEN....no matter how many discussion on ski blogs/websites. Face reality............
Pete_H
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Re: May 26, 2014 The Grand, Ford-Stettner
« Reply #7 on: 05/29/14, 08:32 AM »

Looks like an awesome climb! Interested to see how many raps required on descent. Looking forward to the next installment.
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jtrue
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Re: May 26, 2014 The Grand, Ford-Stettner
« Reply #8 on: 05/29/14, 09:06 AM »

Matt is such a great guy and a very competent ski mountaineer.

Been very fortunate to have toured with him a small bit in the Wasatch.

Please tell him I said hello.

Yep, both Ian and Matt are great mountain partners!  Matt is probably lurking, but I'll say what's up.
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jtrue
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Re: May 26, 2014 The Grand, Ford-Stettner
« Reply #9 on: 05/29/14, 09:10 AM »

sweet photos! Its cool to see a splitboarder climbing with guys sporting skimo gear - nice work! I'm also stoked to see part two...

Ian splitboards as well, but chose the skis for this trip.  Wait til we get Matt on some Aliens, watch out!
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BillK
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Re: May 26, 2014 The Grand, Ford-Stettner
« Reply #10 on: 05/29/14, 10:15 AM »

Out of all my Grand ski adventures, this one is probably my favorite! Fun climb, too.... Nice job!
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jtrue
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Re: May 26, 2014 The Grand, Ford-Stettner
« Reply #11 on: 05/29/14, 10:50 AM »

THE DESCENT

After topping out we looked at the watch and it was just after 10am, upper section was perfect soft carveable corn.  There was another group of mountaineers at the top which we passed. on the descent.

Ian making a turn off the top


Matt shredding, axe in hand


As we dropped into the Ford the snow was firmer and we had to be on our "A" game making cautious controlled turns on the névé.

Myself making a turn in the gut


Ian bending the ski and trusting his edges


Matt following suite


The exposure is real, you don't want to slip, the Ford funnels down to a nice cliff.  Ian heading down towards the toe where you make a left into the Chevy


Waiting for the rap station to clear out, looks steep, it was!


This is when things started to get interesting, a group below us had dropped one of their twin ropes off the end of the Ford, considering each rap is a full 60 meters that would pose a problem.  Somehow the rope got snagged on a flake and the group was able to downclimb on belay and retrieve their rope.  Whew!  We decided to work together and have me go first to rig the next rappel while the others joined be at the rap station.

Rapping!




I use thinner ropes to rap on, they work well if you just pull them through the system.  Coiling and uncoiling sucks and can create a rats nest.  This happened on the second rappel and I had to work on the tangle for a bit.  We decided it would just be quicker to break off separately from the other group and continue our descent. 

At this point it was getting later in the day than I would have liked and we had some groups that were probably starting to descend above us.  Up until now we only saw a couple ice chunks come down, but I didn't want to hang around and test our luck.

Waiting for the others to join me at my stance


Matt coming down


At the last rap station Matt had descended already so it was just Ian and I left.  We heard some noise from above and a couple ice chunks whizzed by, seconds later I saw some rockfall coming for us, we both hugged each other against the wall.  Luckily the rocks didn't find a target.  Let's get the fuck out of here.  Taking that last step out of the Stettner onto the Glencoe Col was one of the best feelings, knowing we were out of the gun barrel!

Snow on the Teepee was isothermal and worked the quads, Matt made easy work of it on his split.

Myself making a turn in the shadows of the Teepee Pillar


Best turns down low were between the Teepee and the meadows, soft but slarvy corn.  We made our way to where we stashed our shoes and some water then continued to ski down canyon as far as made sense.

Good to be back on the trail down Garnet Canyon


Views were nice


Too fast


Looking back up, she's a beaut!


Great climb, great descent, perfect partners!
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JimD
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Re: May 26, 2014 The Grand, Ford-Stettner
« Reply #12 on: 05/29/14, 11:22 AM »

Thanks for the great TRs and pics, esp. this one - love those runnels leading down.
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Edgesport
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Re: May 26, 2014 The Grand, Ford-Stettner
« Reply #13 on: 05/29/14, 02:21 PM »

Incredible mountain.  Is that the route Bill Briggs took to the top?
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jtrue
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Re: May 26, 2014 The Grand, Ford-Stettner
« Reply #14 on: 05/29/14, 02:41 PM »

Incredible mountain.  Is that the route Bill Briggs took to the top?

I'm not sure about his route of Ascent, he descended the east face and down the Stettner instead of down the Ford and then the Chevy, which intersects the Stettner.
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rlsg
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Re: May 26, 2014 The Grand, Ford-Stettner
« Reply #15 on: 05/29/14, 03:33 PM »

See all the pics now...very cool and what a great adventure and write-up.  Keep posting!!!!!!!!!!!!
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CurtF
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Re: May 26, 2014 The Grand, Ford-Stettner
« Reply #16 on: 05/29/14, 04:24 PM »

Great post!  Really enjoyed the story and the pictures.  Nice to see high quality stuff from other locales.
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mikerolfs
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Re: May 26, 2014 The Grand, Ford-Stettner
« Reply #17 on: 05/29/14, 07:52 PM »

Wow!  Fabulous.  Thanks for posting.  That is great adventure.
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jtrue
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Re: May 26, 2014 The Grand, Ford-Stettner
« Reply #18 on: 05/30/14, 08:43 AM »

Thanks all, glad I could provide some pics and words people are stoked on.  Gonna be a long summer!
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shred
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Re: May 26, 2014 The Grand, Ford-Stettner
« Reply #19 on: 05/30/14, 10:58 AM »

Awesome! Great photos too!
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runningclouds
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Re: May 26, 2014 The Grand, Ford-Stettner
« Reply #20 on: 05/30/14, 01:20 PM »

True adventure! It is not an obviously beautiful line but what an exposure, and the top looks pretty sweet. Congratulations
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gfunk
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Re: May 26, 2014 The Grand, Ford-Stettner
« Reply #21 on: 05/30/14, 04:49 PM »

Strong work navigating some tricky terrain, exposure and rockfall! Awesome pics. Did you ever need a rope on the ascent aside from the quick belay on the ice bulge? By chance did you get eyes on the Skillet -- looking to ski that next month.
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jtrue
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Re: May 26, 2014 The Grand, Ford-Stettner
« Reply #22 on: 06/03/14, 08:52 PM »

Strong work navigating some tricky terrain, exposure and rockfall! Awesome pics. Did you ever need a rope on the ascent aside from the quick belay on the ice bulge? By chance did you get eyes on the Skillet -- looking to ski that next month.

Sorry, didn't get eyes on the Skillet.  Heard second hand it's pretty runneled though.  I soloed up the entire way, only part that Ian and Matt needed a belay was the ice bulge.  First time I climbed it I roped up for the two harder bulges, ice was perfect plastic.
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