May 2, 2014, Dark Peak, First Ski Descent
Scott Kindred and I skied Dark Peak from the Holden Village approach. This was my third attempt at climbing Dark Peak (first attempt was a non-ski trip from the Swamp Creek approach), and Scott's second ski attempt. We came close 2 years ago but weather stopped us approximately 800 vertical feet from the top. This trip was particularly committing as I live in Colorado and we had to grab the opportunity when window of clear weather presented itself.
Photo by Photo description of the route and ski
There is a lot of vertical on this route. First up from Holden Village to Holden Pass (camped here). Then down the north col separating Bonanza and Martin Peaks to the upper reaches of the Sable Creek drainage. Then up a short but steep hill to gain the ridge that separates the Sable and Company Creek drainages. Steep and varied skiing down appx. 2300 feet down the base of the Company Glacier. This is a wild place that likely sees very little human activity (no hiking trails lead to this drainage).
Then appx 2200 or so VF up to the ridge that separates Dark Peak and Mount Lyall. The skin up was varied and in places, steep. Veering left at near the top of the drainage, we made it to the drop-in point on to Dark Glacier. Last time we needed to rappel off the ridge, but this time, we side stepped down a few feet and then skied onto the glacier. More wildness!
Once on Dark Glacier, the route is fairly straightforward but still tricky in terms of winding thru to the path of least resistance through the crevasses. There was plenty of snow coverage, so we didnt rope up here.
Once off the glacier, we gained the final gentle slopes to the summit. The summit ridge narrows with a very steep drop to the Company Glacier on the right / south, and a gentle snowfield leading to a 300 foot dead vertical rock face on the left / north. So we stayed on the ridge and played it safe to the summit.
Having left the summit, we skied down in mostly mush that only got worse as we lost elevation. Being up there on skis seemed more important than the actual quality of skiing.
Information on Dark Peak was limited to one TR on Summit Post, and that climb originated out of Stehekin up the Swamp Creek Drainage. And while I cant be 100% sure, it appears Dark had not been skied before. If it had been skied, hats off to the team(s) that made the grueling round trip. It was a long day filled with easy navigation, but in a wild, remote, and beautiful setting.
EDIT- Dark Peak indeed had not been skied before. There are more peaks in this area that have not been skied, like due to the winter/spring approach.
Scott- thank you again for going, and congratulations on number 66! This trip wouldn't have happened without you.
Edit- This was number 66 out of Washington State's "Highest One Hundred" for Scott. As of 2021, fewer than 100 people have climbed all 100 peaks.
So we concocted this other route after reading Jason and Forest's Bonanza Peak TR (actually, saw the Company creek photo's).
It's not exactly guarded like Nanda Devi, but it sure felt like it was difficult to get to!
It takes about 3 hours driving from Seattle to get to the launch point of the Lady of the Lakes boat/ferry ... then about 2 hours worth of a nice boat trip... followed by appx 1 hour (transfers, loading, etc.) bus trip up dirt / forest service roads to Holden (nice nostalgic type drive...).
Then about 3-5 hours skinning/booting (going off memory here... but it's a ways up) to Holden Lake to camp with all your stuff (winter tent camping). This is a big trip up to this point... then the fun begins. There are several un-skied peaks in the area!
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