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Author Topic: 11-14 April Liberty Ridge with Partial Ski Descent  (Read 75866 times)
avajane
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Re: 11-14 April Liberty Ridge with Partial Ski Descent
« Reply #100 on: 04/25/14, 01:05 PM »

This thread is the apogee of TAY! 

Two nights ago, having a beer and watching the NBA playoffs at Rio Chama steakhouse, the bartender told me that he actually carries bolt cutters in his truck all of the time.  He started doing it after somebody locked him inside some parking area once and he's had multiple legitimate occasions to use them since.

 

A friends girlfriend used to have them handy as well after she had been "barrelled" downtown. You never know...

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Brian Izdepski, Facebook TAY
Skier of the Hood
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Re: 11-14 April Liberty Ridge with Partial Ski Descent
« Reply #101 on: 04/25/14, 01:08 PM »

This whole thread is self righteous....too many folks getting up on their soap boxes.  Also, I love how people sit here behind a monitor and rip these guys.  I don't get it.  It cracks me up because I know 90% of the sh#t talkin folks wouldn't have the nuts (or ovaries) to say this stuff face to face.  Anonymity makes ya feel a bit more ballsy than you really are sometimes.

Most of the people making harsh, but constructive comments have their identities revealed through their website links under their usernames. If you take the time to identify the posters you will find a depth of experience unavailable on other ski forums. You won't find out my identity because I am not that experienced and would rather not have you know :P

As for the current discussion I agree with beating the dead horse on poor form with the lock cutting. Easy access is great but sometimes half the adventure and challenge is simply spending the time to complete the approach.

http://vimeo.com/72024058
a good example of the "poor" ski mountaineering being exercised in the modern age.
all the transitions and ice, you cant even call it ski mountaineering!
Reiner is a humble animal who was attempting to show what could be done on bear bones Skimo gear in this video. I think this video illustrates the opposite point that you are attempting to convey.
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"As we all know, the true driving force behind every early morning wake up is not necessarily safety, but the overpowering drive to be sitting on a patio by 1 pm, intoxicated, and spraying loudly about the morning's adventure."

-Andrew Wexler 2011
tabski
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Re: 11-14 April Liberty Ridge with Partial Ski Descent
« Reply #102 on: 04/25/14, 01:53 PM »

"Hey man, you wanna hang out Friday night?"

"Nah, I'm gonna stay in and watch the April Liberty Ridge thread."

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rlsg
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Re: 11-14 April Liberty Ridge with Partial Ski Descent
« Reply #103 on: 04/25/14, 06:57 PM »

Great write-up of your adventure.  The lock cutting could make for road opening/ access problems problems in the future.

Keep your TRs coming though--great reads!
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ski2fly
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Re: 11-14 April Liberty Ridge with Partial Ski Descent
« Reply #104 on: 04/25/14, 08:00 PM »

This is a story of a great adventure. Dave thanks for posting and including so many pictures. As for the lock, and though it might be a $5 lock I am guessing the Feds paid $150 for it. I don't see anywhere Dave actual says he cut it.
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samthaman
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Re: 11-14 April Liberty Ridge with Partial Ski Descent
« Reply #105 on: 04/25/14, 08:13 PM »

ripping icy groomers at sugarbush is entirely different than skiing an icy, exposed, 5,000-foot line on a volcano.  Cheesy

In the OP's defense.. it's not that different
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Gregg_C
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Re: 11-14 April Liberty Ridge with Partial Ski Descent
« Reply #106 on: 04/25/14, 08:58 PM »

I have nothing glib or amusing to add--others have done so well.  Sky's, "Let your freak flag fly" comment had me nearly spitting beer out my nose.  And I put in my vote for Scotsman as being his best post ever.  Funny, clever and with that edge of sarcasm we have come to expect. 

My boring droll comment is to ask why a road that is open for sledding is locked for road access.  Why not let folks drive to the snow and unload?  I recently used sleds to do the Forbidden Traverse.  If not for a very large tree 1.5 miles from the Eldorado Gate recently fallen across the road, we would have saved four miles of road skinning.  (Before you start jumping on our actions,  we called the Park and were told we could use the sleds to that point.)  Interestingly, someone had used a snow mobile to drive to the summer parking lot and were able to open the gate on the hillside below the parking lot after the final bridge.  Must have been park employees.

Fantastic thread.  Highly enjoyable reading above the usual TAY fare.
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Alex L
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Re: 11-14 April Liberty Ridge with Partial Ski Descent
« Reply #107 on: 04/25/14, 09:01 PM »

Just to clear one thing up - we snowmobiled from the end of the plowed road at the White River Ranger Station, to the Glacier Basin Trailhead at the White River Campground (where the "No Snowmobiles" sign is).

Here's my gpx from the TH where we started skiing to Thumb Rock:  http://www.mappingsupport.com/p/gmap4.php?q=http://sites.google.com/site/acleone/gpx/2014-04-11_LR_TH_to_Thumb_Rock.gpx&ll=46.885500,-121.715739&z=13&t=t4

My two cents about the conditions: Skis made for fast and efficient travel all the way to the toe of Liberty Ridge and back.  Climbing conditions on the ridge were great, no wallowing, mostly styrofoam snow that took steps well.  No schrund shenanigans at all.  There was maybe 10 feet of 60-70 degree snow, the rest was 40-50 degrees, including all the ice pitches.

We planned to ski the Emmons if we didn't find good conditions.  Once we popped up onto the snowfield below Liberty Cap and out of the shelter of the headwall, there was a strong continuous wind from the East.  Just to get up to Liberty Cap we had to crawl a bit.  It would have been quite a battle to walk directly into the wind to get over to the saddle and down the Emmons.

Once we got back down out of the wind, Dave skied a section, found it to be pretty hard snow, so I downclimbed.  Once we got back to the top of the exposed glacier ice (see picture on page 1), we made a few raps over the ice to just above the Black Pyramid, and downclimbed on snow to just below the Black Pyramid.  None of the raps were vertical, just the same 40 degree ice that we climbed up.  The snow below the Black Pyramid was pretty hard, but certianly edgeable.  Dave skied it, I took a turn or two, and decided I liked downclimbing more, so switched back to crampons.  A few hundred feet below the snow softened up nicely so I eventually put skis back on.  I think there was another hard snow section were we switched and one last exposed ice band near the bottom that required a short rap.

I bet Dave could have skied continuously from below the Black Pyramid all the way out, and made the single short rap with skis on.  I wasn't as confident in my abilities so I probably caused us to transition to crampons a few more times than was necessary.  I bet a little later in the season when the snow is softer, and without the exposed glacier ice section above the Black Pyramid, it would have made for a much more aesthetic ski descent.
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T. Eastman
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Re: 11-14 April Liberty Ridge with Partial Ski Descent
« Reply #108 on: 04/25/14, 10:13 PM »

Alex, don't sweat it, ski-mountaineers struggle with identity issues.  Consider yourselves "Fun hogs" and be done with that.

The lock is a different deal and that is done...

Keep climbing smart and have fun.
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ajjenkin
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Re: 11-14 April Liberty Ridge with Partial Ski Descent
« Reply #109 on: 04/25/14, 10:42 PM »

Just like Tabke said...better than TV...especially when babysitting on a Friday night.

LR skiing TR's over the last few years seem to fall into two camps - the mid-April/early-May attempts, and the late-June/early-July attempts.  The later attempts seem to find better conditions and have better luck with the skiing.  If you are too late,  this can happen:

http://mountrainierconditions.blogspot.com/2010/04/liberty-ridge-2010.html

Too early and you get gray patches of dirty ice in the path of your ascent/descent.  The amount of snow we get, and the type of snow we get throughout the winter surely matters too.  It may be as simple as earlier is better on low snow years, and later is better on high snow years.  Anyway, I'm suggesting that maybe the window for LR skiing is later than everyone seems to think.  Perhaps just past the prime climbing window, but before the lower ridge really falls apart.  This may only be a 2 to 4 week window somewhere between early-June and early-July.

This route is certainly a "test-piece" (great word for rock climbing, but I don't really like that word for skiing - too variable).  It is bound to see more frequent ski attempts, so a discussion of when to go is important.  I thought I'd throw this out there because I haven't seen it dealt with in this "far ranging" thread.

As far as the bolt cutting...I threw drano-bombs off the cornice at Loveland Pass in my early twenties to try to get the slope below to slide.  Stupid.  I wish I could sit down with that young lad now and talk some sense into him.  He wouldn't listen though.
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freeski
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Re: 11-14 April Liberty Ridge with Partial Ski Descent
« Reply #110 on: 04/26/14, 07:12 AM »

ripping icy groomers at sugarbush is entirely different than skiing an icy, exposed, 5,000-foot line on a volcano.  Cheesy
you mean the east doesn't have Bc skiing? No ice with exposure? My point is that you reach a comfort level with the conditions you are raised on. The Bc skiers that i know from the east make really bad snow, like ice and wind hammer,look easy to ski.
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two sets of principles. They are the principles of power and privilege and the principles of truth and justice. If you pursue truth and justice it will always mean a diminution of power and privilege. If you pursue power and privilege, it will always be at the expense of truth and justice
C Hedges
T. Eastman
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Re: 11-14 April Liberty Ridge with Partial Ski Descent
« Reply #111 on: 04/26/14, 09:30 AM »

you mean the east doesn't have Bc skiing? No ice with exposure? My point is that you reach a comfort level with the conditions you are raised on. The Bc skiers that i know from the east make really bad snow, like ice and wind hammer,look easy to ski.

This is so true, Samthaman is said to actually hate powder and smooth corn, preferring wicked hard crust and boiler plate...
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rlsg
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Re: 11-14 April Liberty Ridge with Partial Ski Descent
« Reply #112 on: 04/26/14, 10:06 AM »

Now the Park Service is going to be looking for a PAIR of 'hoods' with ski masks and bolt cutters (Avajane and Dave..)--The new DYNAMIC DUO!
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Pete_H
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Re: 11-14 April Liberty Ridge with Partial Ski Descent
« Reply #113 on: 04/26/14, 06:51 PM »

This is a story of a great adventure.

Fair enough. But mountaineering, yes. Ski mountaineering (or ski alpinism), no.
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altasnob
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Re: 11-14 April Liberty Ridge with Partial Ski Descent
« Reply #114 on: 04/26/14, 06:53 PM »

Not fessing up to the bolt cutting off the bat was your biggest blunder. Had you just claimed you did it for the cause, hell, you'd go to jail for the cause, everyone would be cool with that. You'd might even pass Scottsman as TAY's #1 poster.

There is no good reason why the road isn't open to wherever the snow line is. The road is paved, so less risk of ruts like on dirt roads. And they could post a sign that says you have to display your Rainier Park pass, and make money by ticketing offenders. Rainier should tier their 410 opening schedule, rather than just wait for Chinook to open.
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freeski
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Re: 11-14 April Liberty Ridge with Partial Ski Descent
« Reply #115 on: 04/26/14, 09:50 PM »

Alex, i read your last post and it sounds like you had good teamwork and were staying together. One of the guys who posted advice to you once posted a very well written story about a  climb-ski were he ditched his partner and wound up speading the night in one of the steam vents. Because he is willing to share his mistakes, I would say that he was not trying to shame,as was suggested in one of the posts, but to teach out of concern for safety.
« Last Edit: 04/26/14, 10:14 PM by freeskiguy » Logged

two sets of principles. They are the principles of power and privilege and the principles of truth and justice. If you pursue truth and justice it will always mean a diminution of power and privilege. If you pursue power and privilege, it will always be at the expense of truth and justice
C Hedges
avajane
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Re: 11-14 April Liberty Ridge with Partial Ski Descent
« Reply #116 on: 04/27/14, 11:42 PM »

Now the Park Service is going to be looking for a PAIR of 'hoods' with ski masks and bolt cutters (Avajane and Dave..)--The new DYNAMIC DUO!
Snuck into the backside of Stevens Pass but was by myself. The Nordic road had been groomed the day before! Will be skiing with Dave soon. Just couldn't meet up this time.
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Brian Izdepski, Facebook TAY
rlsg
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Re: 11-14 April Liberty Ridge with Partial Ski Descent
« Reply #117 on: 04/28/14, 04:38 PM »

Which one will be BATMAN and who (or is it whom?) will be Robin?  Both CAPE CRUSADERS I'm sure....
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avajane
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Re: 11-14 April Liberty Ridge with Partial Ski Descent
« Reply #118 on: 04/28/14, 05:16 PM »

Don't know but you are surely the Joker Grin
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Brian Izdepski, Facebook TAY
rlsg
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Re: 11-14 April Liberty Ridge with Partial Ski Descent
« Reply #119 on: 04/28/14, 05:33 PM »

OK--I'll stop...
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hillybilly
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Re: 11-14 April Liberty Ridge with Partial Ski Descent
« Reply #120 on: 04/28/14, 07:59 PM »

Not fessing up to the bolt cutting off the bat was your biggest blunder.

Why is that? Seems rational to show reluctance.
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aaron_wright
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Re: 11-14 April Liberty Ridge with Partial Ski Descent
« Reply #121 on: 04/28/14, 08:28 PM »

Why is that? Seems rational to show reluctance.
What if that was your plan all along?
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hillybilly
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Re: 11-14 April Liberty Ridge with Partial Ski Descent
« Reply #122 on: 04/29/14, 12:10 PM »

What if? I guess I don't follow.
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David_Coleman
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Re: 11-14 April Liberty Ridge with Partial Ski Descent
« Reply #123 on: 04/29/14, 05:06 PM »

Freak-flag on...haha.  I see Sky hasn't missed a beat with his sense of humor  Cool.  As for this thread, I must say, TAY still appears civil.  I can only imagine what a cross-thread of this would be like on cc.com, with full on profanity or drumrolls!

Or to quote the Urban Dictionary (Cross-threaded): When you are taking a crap, and it takes you a long time, and it feels as if a boulder is being squeezed from your a_ _. It hurts and feels like it's coming out sideways.

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JasonGriffith
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Re: 11-14 April Liberty Ridge with Partial Ski Descent
« Reply #124 on: 04/29/14, 07:52 PM »

No need to imagine, Dave thought of everything:  http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1123514/1
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