August 18-19, 2005, Eldorado
8/18/05
WA Cascades West Slopes North (Mt Baker)
3187
5
Headed up to eldorado on the evening of the 18th with my buddy on his new splitboard. We departed from the car at around 9:30 pm, finally finding the trail and starting to hike at 11. Making our way up the steep forest trail, we came to the boulder-field and switched from our headlamps to moonlight, consequently missing the faint trail in numerous locations. We bivyed at the first trodden campsite at 3 pm, then headed up the following morning around 8 or 9.
There were slim linked patches of snow clinging onto the eldorado glacier which we used for ascent after roping up. Up on the inspiration glacier flats the skins came out until the steeper bootpack on eldorado proper, after which the short trip to the summit was made. We were able to get turns (I won't mention our mishap) from right below the knife-edge ridge down to the inspiration flats with only a few short carries, then linked turns down the rest of the eldorado.
Long story short, after a super long day and a notably less-than-pleasant descent down the boulder-field and forest sections, we made it back to the car at 11pm. I have personally done days with more vertical, or longer approaches, or more technical climbs, but the first 4500 feet or so of this route seemed quite challenging - it probably is a lot more pleasant with snow cover. We were both exhausted long before the end of the descent, and we consequently had to stop several times on the drive back to bham for cat naps. In summary, the JOM likely stood at around 25% - not bad considering it's august!
There were slim linked patches of snow clinging onto the eldorado glacier which we used for ascent after roping up. Up on the inspiration glacier flats the skins came out until the steeper bootpack on eldorado proper, after which the short trip to the summit was made. We were able to get turns (I won't mention our mishap) from right below the knife-edge ridge down to the inspiration flats with only a few short carries, then linked turns down the rest of the eldorado.
Long story short, after a super long day and a notably less-than-pleasant descent down the boulder-field and forest sections, we made it back to the car at 11pm. I have personally done days with more vertical, or longer approaches, or more technical climbs, but the first 4500 feet or so of this route seemed quite challenging - it probably is a lot more pleasant with snow cover. We were both exhausted long before the end of the descent, and we consequently had to stop several times on the drive back to bham for cat naps. In summary, the JOM likely stood at around 25% - not bad considering it's august!
Kudos to you for getting up there with skis this time of year! I prefer to do it when the boulder field is buried so you can start skinning right out of the woods, although I doubt the boulder field ever got totally buried for very long this winter ???
So spill the beans...tell us about your mishap! We all make mistakes from time to time. Just ask a Hummel! ;)
So spill the beans...tell us about your mishap! We all make mistakes from time to time. Just ask a Hummel! ;)
Nice job man, those are some well-earned turns. Did the splitboard provide useful? How much did you skin?
Right after the mellow summit pitches there is a steeper (though not very steep) section with about 10 ft between the crevasses and the moat separating the glacier from the rock wall. On my second turn down that section my board suddenly slipped out resulting into a quick slide into the moat and maybe about 8 ft down into the rocks. Luckily my equipment hit first, saving me a heli lift out despite some core damage to my board. After prying my board loose from the rocks, I was able to throw myself out from the rocks onto the glacier, avoiding the more ominous depths of the moat.
I think this incident probably resulted from 75% carelessness and 25% fatigue (interrelated), and the lesson was learned. Further down on the glacier I took it real easy, feeling sore in numerous spots on my body. There ... I spilled the beans.
That boulder field would be much easier with snow on it. We only skinned for about 1 mile or so. Probably not worth the extra weight - we should have brought the solids but it was good to get my buddy out on his new split.
I think this incident probably resulted from 75% carelessness and 25% fatigue (interrelated), and the lesson was learned. Further down on the glacier I took it real easy, feeling sore in numerous spots on my body. There ... I spilled the beans.
That boulder field would be much easier with snow on it. We only skinned for about 1 mile or so. Probably not worth the extra weight - we should have brought the solids but it was good to get my buddy out on his new split.
Well, I know how it feels nomad. I felt pretty stupid, kind of like a herd of buffalo chased by hunters off a cliff. In fact I felt 25% more stupid than you felt (that's 102.5% right?).
well as grueling as some parts of the decent were, i'm stoked to be able to kiss those ski-areas and snow shoes good bye and say hello to turns all year. allready can't wait to get my september tracks in. although i may be sore for an entire month after that trip! ;D
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