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1/26/14, Mt. Baker, Boulder Glacier Julyuary

1/26/14
WA Cascades West Slopes North (Mt Baker)
5952
3
Posted by d542east on 1/27/14 7:38am
Adrian, Peter, Kyle and I skied the Boulder Cleaver route in very good conditions.

We were able to drive to within a mile of the trailhead. With higher clearance and firmer snow, it would have been possible to drive to the trailhead. We left the car around 1:30pm on Saturday and began by skinning but quickly transitioned to booting. Eventually skis became more efficient and we followed a snowshoe track across a creek, on up to the clearing and eventually the fixed line. We arrived at a very nice, flat camp spot just above the fixed line as it was getting dark, made dinner and went to bed. The stars were truly spectacular. We set the alarm for 3, but didn't get moving till 4:15 or so. We followed a bootpack and found the route to be in ideal conditions for climbing. Firm, but not icy with some sections of ankle high wind deposits. Ski crampons allowed for quick and efficient progress. All of the cracks seemed well filled in with one easily negotiable exception near the top. Visibility seemed to be limited only by the curvature of the earth. Truly one of the most incredible sunrises I've witnessed. The temperature was strangely warm, wearing just a thin softshell while climbing was too much at times.  We hit the top around 11:30, were treated to an otherworldly view, had lunch and began the descent. The top half varied between firm, very edgable windboard and soft sastrugi. The volcano equivalent of groomers and moguls perhaps. The bottom half was perfect, fast corn that was the icing on the cake for the longest run any of us have skied. With a quick break to melt some water, we loaded up our packs, rappelled next to the fixed line (which is in somewhat dubious condition) and skied sometimes challenging slush and crust down to near the bog. A quick boot down to the bog and we put skins on for a couple miles until the final boot out. We arrived at the car just in time to avoid putting headlamps on and drove down to beer and good food at Mestizo.

This is definitely the best ski run and climb I've experienced on Komo Kulshan and am deeply grateful for the excellent conditions and wonderful company.

pictures!
Nice! Did you get a look at whether the crack below the Park headwall is passable?

No, the seracs and cracks involved in getting back to the boulder route turned me off the idea, so I didn't bother looking very closely.

Thanks for your post. We almost headed that way except weren't sure about the road condition.  now we know!

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1-26-14-mt-baker-boulder-glacier-julyuary
d542east
2014-01-27 15:38:31