June 10, 2005, East Bolam Glacier, Mt Shasta
6/10/05
US elsewhere
3007
0
[continued from June 9, Point 9,400, North Gate Mt Shasta]
Day 63
6-10-05
East Bolam Glacier, Mount Shasta
Ski Descent: 12,600' (highpoint, above the Bergschrund) - 7,400' on the North Gate access trail => 5,200 VF
Total Climb: 5,600 VF
3 am. Wayne's alarm goes off. The sleeping in the Silverado was fine for three, although Ron couldn't quite stretch out in the cab's backseat. We eat and drink in the cool air by headlamp and our mostly packed backpacks are pulled out from under the truck. By 4 am we hit the trail. Our experience the day before ensured easy climbing in the dark forest, and soon we are on continuous snow.
The climbing is easy and dawn is very enjoyable from North Gate, as we are now above tree line and can enjoy the light show of morning over the cloud sea. Above us, the upper mountain has been erased by a descending mass of clouds. Two lonely figures struggle up the Wintun-Bolam Ridge route and disappear into the clouds.
By 9 am we reach 11,000' and the edge of the glacier. The weather above remains socked in and we see the two climbers reemerge from the maelstrom shortly afterwards. We reach them at the rocks at the edge of the glacier. At this impromptu gathering our new friend John the Baptist turns up, having also abandoned his attempt at the Bolam Gully. The two returning climbers are good natured but warn us about conditions above. "White-out" they said, "we're heading back down." John, flying solo, skis off shortly enjoying good snow and good visibility back to his camp.
Interesting.
The clouds did not have a "storm" feel to them (although there was no lack of wind up high) and we had all day to experiment, so we decided to get our glacier gear on and start wanding our way across the blank void. Our objective was the far ridge where we could follow this easy topographical feature high up onto the mountain, and our only obstacle was the large burgschrund that created a huge sickle over the glacier. With compass, map and altimeter we set out for the ridge.
The experience of wanding a route in the white-outs of the PNW was certainly paying out dividends. The fog got thicker and thicker until it was difficult to even see Wayne at the end of the rope, our wands sometimes less than a rope length apart on the steep traverse sections. We are instantly transported into Big Mountain Skiing. We traverse the length of the glacier and as we hit 12,000' the clouds begin to lift. The sun pops out randomly and then for good. We look around and realize we have a large window of good weather ahead - yippee! Our wanded route is now overkill but we continue wanding until we reach the ridge line to ensure a speedy and safe descent.
Decisions, decisions.
Conditions above did not look good. The wonderful blanket of new snow from the most recent storm could not hide the fact that a continuous descent was probably not possible on the windswept ridge separating the Bolam Glacier and the upper snowfields. On top of that, the upper snowfield appeared to have a huge crown from a slab avalanche from the windswept new snow, portents of spotty danger where the wind was loading. Certainly the snow had a winter-like feel up above 12,500 and couldn't be trusted. We were above the bergschrund and the best skiing of the glacier was below us. Any higher and our descent would expose us to a fall into the 'schrund. And, of course, the snow ahead looked like sustrugi hell where it wasn't bare.
We all agreed that the sunny window of opportunity was still open and an omen. "Why climb it if we can't ski it?" we asked. We had a 5,000 VF ski below us, we had crossed the crux glacier section of the Bolam, and we had a fading window of sun. A full ski descent of the upper Bolam Ridge would have to wait for better coverage. We took in the views, especially the north face of Shastina route, and prepared for the descent.
Wonderful!
We charged the slope with reckless abandon, the inconsistent top turns on the wind drifted ridge quickly giving way to even powder below as we worked our way back across the glacier. Above 12,000 feet we were surprised at the quality of the new snow, as the northern exposure still held a powdery feel while the foot of depth covered any inconsistencies on the surface. We traced smooth arcs one after each another, gathering wands, racing the gathering clouds and skied in the sun patches once we reached the steep traverse section.
At the rocks dividing the glacier from the North Gate route I put my wands away. Leaving the Glacier and elevation the snow begins to change to full blown corn. We enjoy fantastic corn snow down the successive bowls below the Meeting Rocks. One divine face in particular affords a perfect pitch and exposure combined with just the right vertical to produce summer-long memories. Our shouts of joy echo around the box canyon.
We soon hit the saddle and the descent into the trees, the snow remaining a firm, slick ride once again to the Victory Tree. A short stroll down the trail brings us to the quiet parking lot. Success!
Our original plan to ski the north face of Shastina is slowly dissolving as circumstances called for a change of tactics.
Ron was sneezing, coughing and generally feeling ill on the whole of the Bolam climb, problem number one. The thought of fighting the many, many miles to get to snow from our intended TH was very daunting, even for me who was feeling healthy. We needed a shorter access trip to entice Ron for another day of skiing.
Problem number 2: our sad paper topo map that was fine for big picture navigation, but wouldn't make the grade for the fine detail we'd need for the cross-country travel needed on the Shastina route, especially above the Whitney Falls area. I had camped in the area years ago and recalled weird lava flows and tough volcanic terrain, yet my ego had once again outstripped my wisdom, as my good topo map of Shasta was now tacked to my shop wall, my various routes accomplished proudly emblazoned in vivid colors around the mountain. That was the map we needed. The Fifth Season, a climbing shop in Shasta City, on the south side of the mountain was the place to get it.
The problem was (#3) I knew if we went to the Fifth Season, I certainly wouldn't want to come back to the north side. At least not tonight. We might as well pick something accessible from the south side and one that would have a short approach. Certainly there was plenty to do on the hit parade, let's see... Heck, why not climb the route that was bone dry when Andrei and I tried to climb it July of 2004? Diller Canyon, the obscure route on west side of Shastina. My handy high clearance 2500 Silverado 4X4 should make quick work of the access road, which we had heard was a nightmare, and we could really benefit from the new map we'd be wielding from the Fifth Season. And of course, the view of the route from Weed, where we had been doing our food shopping for the past day and a half made the decision that much easier. Diller Canyon looked fat from summit down to the trees!
It was a weekend of going with the flow with positive results - off to the busy south side!
A short time later, we were in Shasta City. At the Fifth Season we find a 2005 edition of the Mt Shasta Wilderness map that outlines the 4X4 roads in exquisite detail. Very nice! With snacks and map in hand, we strike out for the Everett Highway and the Black Butte trailhead signs.
The map made the access road a piece of cake. Navigating, at least, was a piece of cake. Our high clearance 4WD vehicle was the only thing that made this tour possible (but then again rough 4X4 roads are never relaxing for me). The off road driving required was not trivial but saved us miles of walking The big Silverado did fine where a few tricky sections would have stopped all but the most sadistic driver in a low clearance car. We grind our way up to 6,000' where the need for high clearance 4 WD gives way to serious Jeep trail driving. Our 18' rig did not seem the rig for such endeavors and we opt to look for a place to park and proceed on foot in the morning.
We push on to a flat spot off the side of the trail, do a three or 4 point K turn and we settle in for the night.
[Continued on June 11, Diller Canyon, Mt Shasta]
Day 63
6-10-05
East Bolam Glacier, Mount Shasta
Ski Descent: 12,600' (highpoint, above the Bergschrund) - 7,400' on the North Gate access trail => 5,200 VF
Total Climb: 5,600 VF
3 am. Wayne's alarm goes off. The sleeping in the Silverado was fine for three, although Ron couldn't quite stretch out in the cab's backseat. We eat and drink in the cool air by headlamp and our mostly packed backpacks are pulled out from under the truck. By 4 am we hit the trail. Our experience the day before ensured easy climbing in the dark forest, and soon we are on continuous snow.
The climbing is easy and dawn is very enjoyable from North Gate, as we are now above tree line and can enjoy the light show of morning over the cloud sea. Above us, the upper mountain has been erased by a descending mass of clouds. Two lonely figures struggle up the Wintun-Bolam Ridge route and disappear into the clouds.
By 9 am we reach 11,000' and the edge of the glacier. The weather above remains socked in and we see the two climbers reemerge from the maelstrom shortly afterwards. We reach them at the rocks at the edge of the glacier. At this impromptu gathering our new friend John the Baptist turns up, having also abandoned his attempt at the Bolam Gully. The two returning climbers are good natured but warn us about conditions above. "White-out" they said, "we're heading back down." John, flying solo, skis off shortly enjoying good snow and good visibility back to his camp.
Interesting.
The clouds did not have a "storm" feel to them (although there was no lack of wind up high) and we had all day to experiment, so we decided to get our glacier gear on and start wanding our way across the blank void. Our objective was the far ridge where we could follow this easy topographical feature high up onto the mountain, and our only obstacle was the large burgschrund that created a huge sickle over the glacier. With compass, map and altimeter we set out for the ridge.
The experience of wanding a route in the white-outs of the PNW was certainly paying out dividends. The fog got thicker and thicker until it was difficult to even see Wayne at the end of the rope, our wands sometimes less than a rope length apart on the steep traverse sections. We are instantly transported into Big Mountain Skiing. We traverse the length of the glacier and as we hit 12,000' the clouds begin to lift. The sun pops out randomly and then for good. We look around and realize we have a large window of good weather ahead - yippee! Our wanded route is now overkill but we continue wanding until we reach the ridge line to ensure a speedy and safe descent.
Decisions, decisions.
Conditions above did not look good. The wonderful blanket of new snow from the most recent storm could not hide the fact that a continuous descent was probably not possible on the windswept ridge separating the Bolam Glacier and the upper snowfields. On top of that, the upper snowfield appeared to have a huge crown from a slab avalanche from the windswept new snow, portents of spotty danger where the wind was loading. Certainly the snow had a winter-like feel up above 12,500 and couldn't be trusted. We were above the bergschrund and the best skiing of the glacier was below us. Any higher and our descent would expose us to a fall into the 'schrund. And, of course, the snow ahead looked like sustrugi hell where it wasn't bare.
We all agreed that the sunny window of opportunity was still open and an omen. "Why climb it if we can't ski it?" we asked. We had a 5,000 VF ski below us, we had crossed the crux glacier section of the Bolam, and we had a fading window of sun. A full ski descent of the upper Bolam Ridge would have to wait for better coverage. We took in the views, especially the north face of Shastina route, and prepared for the descent.
Wonderful!
We charged the slope with reckless abandon, the inconsistent top turns on the wind drifted ridge quickly giving way to even powder below as we worked our way back across the glacier. Above 12,000 feet we were surprised at the quality of the new snow, as the northern exposure still held a powdery feel while the foot of depth covered any inconsistencies on the surface. We traced smooth arcs one after each another, gathering wands, racing the gathering clouds and skied in the sun patches once we reached the steep traverse section.
At the rocks dividing the glacier from the North Gate route I put my wands away. Leaving the Glacier and elevation the snow begins to change to full blown corn. We enjoy fantastic corn snow down the successive bowls below the Meeting Rocks. One divine face in particular affords a perfect pitch and exposure combined with just the right vertical to produce summer-long memories. Our shouts of joy echo around the box canyon.
We soon hit the saddle and the descent into the trees, the snow remaining a firm, slick ride once again to the Victory Tree. A short stroll down the trail brings us to the quiet parking lot. Success!
Our original plan to ski the north face of Shastina is slowly dissolving as circumstances called for a change of tactics.
Ron was sneezing, coughing and generally feeling ill on the whole of the Bolam climb, problem number one. The thought of fighting the many, many miles to get to snow from our intended TH was very daunting, even for me who was feeling healthy. We needed a shorter access trip to entice Ron for another day of skiing.
Problem number 2: our sad paper topo map that was fine for big picture navigation, but wouldn't make the grade for the fine detail we'd need for the cross-country travel needed on the Shastina route, especially above the Whitney Falls area. I had camped in the area years ago and recalled weird lava flows and tough volcanic terrain, yet my ego had once again outstripped my wisdom, as my good topo map of Shasta was now tacked to my shop wall, my various routes accomplished proudly emblazoned in vivid colors around the mountain. That was the map we needed. The Fifth Season, a climbing shop in Shasta City, on the south side of the mountain was the place to get it.
The problem was (#3) I knew if we went to the Fifth Season, I certainly wouldn't want to come back to the north side. At least not tonight. We might as well pick something accessible from the south side and one that would have a short approach. Certainly there was plenty to do on the hit parade, let's see... Heck, why not climb the route that was bone dry when Andrei and I tried to climb it July of 2004? Diller Canyon, the obscure route on west side of Shastina. My handy high clearance 2500 Silverado 4X4 should make quick work of the access road, which we had heard was a nightmare, and we could really benefit from the new map we'd be wielding from the Fifth Season. And of course, the view of the route from Weed, where we had been doing our food shopping for the past day and a half made the decision that much easier. Diller Canyon looked fat from summit down to the trees!
It was a weekend of going with the flow with positive results - off to the busy south side!
A short time later, we were in Shasta City. At the Fifth Season we find a 2005 edition of the Mt Shasta Wilderness map that outlines the 4X4 roads in exquisite detail. Very nice! With snacks and map in hand, we strike out for the Everett Highway and the Black Butte trailhead signs.
The map made the access road a piece of cake. Navigating, at least, was a piece of cake. Our high clearance 4WD vehicle was the only thing that made this tour possible (but then again rough 4X4 roads are never relaxing for me). The off road driving required was not trivial but saved us miles of walking The big Silverado did fine where a few tricky sections would have stopped all but the most sadistic driver in a low clearance car. We grind our way up to 6,000' where the need for high clearance 4 WD gives way to serious Jeep trail driving. Our 18' rig did not seem the rig for such endeavors and we opt to look for a place to park and proceed on foot in the morning.
We push on to a flat spot off the side of the trail, do a three or 4 point K turn and we settle in for the night.
[Continued on June 11, Diller Canyon, Mt Shasta]
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