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June 23-Adams Glacier

6/15/05
WA Cascades West Slopes South (Mt Rainier)
3903
6
Posted by Bandit on 6/23/05 10:37am
I left Tacoma at 4 a.m., under a full moon. In three hours , I was at the Divide Trail, ready to go. The objective was to hike/skin up as far as possible, make camp, rest up, and go for the climb early Friday morning and ski down with an 11,000 ft freezing level.

However, after some strong coffee and traveling solo, I soon realized, I should leave the glacier for another day and do it with a partner.

The Adams Glacier is in fine shape. After I lollygagged my way up to 8,200', I decided to call it a day, and get some turns. The circleing clouds and high winds changed my  mind about doing an overnight bivy.

I could see Mt St  Helens, totally clear, and Mt. Rainier, totally clear. But Mt Adams had all these wierd clouds and rainbows hovering over the summit.

It was a good day to get out. Didn't see a soul all day.

Make sure and bring the dope. The mosquitos are out in full force.

I don't have a dig camera, so my pics won't be up for a while.
Yeah, it's like a completely different world out there when you're solo.  Sounds like you made a good call.  That mountain will be there, waiting for you, next time.

One of my favorite trips were a bivy on Mt St Helens , a couple of years ago. I like traveling light, using a pad, down jacket, bibs, hat and gloves, and the required poly and fleece. But with the clouds , I figured there might be some overnight precip, and didn't like the idea of waking to a wet, cold start.

I like solo trips , sometimes just to clear the mind, but then when you approach the crevassed glacier, reality sets in, and alarms start going off in your head.

The thought of punching through a crevasse , solo, is just too much to handle. The consequences severe. Better off to go on the South Climb Route, for soloing on Adams. You're right. Save The Adams Glacier for another day.


I hear you, Bandit.  There's a very special feeling for the world that can only be attained (at least as far as I know) by experiencing the mountains by yourself.  And I guess the risks -- and the extreme consequences of failure -- are maybe something that contributes to that feeling.  It certainly heightens my awareness and makes me think things through much more carefully.  For me it's quite invigorating, really.
My thoughts usually drift back to Corwin, as well, when thinking of the magical, yet unforgiving world of solo climbing.  

For those of you that didn't know him, Corwin Osborn was a super strong climber and skier that generously gave back to the backcountry community by helping with the courses taught to backcountry skiers and climbers at the Seattle Moutaineers.  I really didn't know him that well but the times I spent with him told me he was a very talented, knowledgeable and caring man. Corwin was some sort of scientist by profession.  Not surprisingly, he was extremely focused on avalanche beacons, their performance and the various idiosyncrasies of the way they worked.  He wanted us all to learn how to be more effective with them to save more lives in the backcountry.  His contribution in that area at the Mounties was enormous.
 
A few years ago Corwin set out to traverse and summit all of the Three Sisters as a day trip.  Not many had done it but if anyone could it would be Corwin.  He was a fast, strong, experienced and confident climber.  To make a long story short, his dad dropped him off at the trailhead early one morning and since that day no one ever saw him again.  

The search went on for weeks, but, somehow, no trace of him was ever found, despite the fact that other climbers had seen him "moving fast" along the trail that day.

The world suffered a major loss with the loss of Corwin.  He certainly gave me a priceless gift at the cost of his life... and I hardly knew him.  
The gift was:  If someone like Corwin can lose his life in the mountains, then an old klutz like me better REALLY be careful, especially when soloing.  
Thanks, Corwin, may you rest in peace.

Please forgive the thread drift, Bandit.

How does the direct glacier route look?  Many crevasses?  How about the NW ridge above the glacier?  Would love to see any pics you have of that area from yesterday.  Where did the snow coverage start?  Thanks!

The NFNWR is looking very good for this time of year. In fact from the recent pictures I have seen, better than any spring over the past several years. The Adams Glacier may be a bit more broken up but otherwise other non-glaciated routes look good i.e. stormy monday, Lava HW.

How does the direct glacier route look?  Many crevasses?  How about the NW ridge above the glacier?  Would love to see any pics you have of that area from yesterday.  Where did the snow coverage start?  Thanks!


The route up the right side looks excellent. No open crevasses to speak of. The NW Ridge also looks good. The snow coverage started at about 6,000 ft, with snow fingers coming down little drainages. Nice firm corn snow for some excellent turns.

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june-23-adams-glacier
Bandit
2005-06-23 17:37:43