June 3, 2013, Mt Baker, Park Headwall
6/3/13
WA Cascades West Slopes North (Mt Baker)
2166
6
Met Kam in Everett at 1:45am to consolidate cars. 1:45 minutes to the trailhead above Boulder Creek. Only got pulled over once. Left the car around 4:30am. Hiked about a mile or a mile and a half, hit snow, and started skinning. Found the boggy meadow about 3 miles in. Mostly snow covered. Hannah showed up, whereupon we took an hour to play hide and seek with Kam whom we found on the ridge ahead of us.
Leaving the meadow I unfortunately trended right and more directly up the fall line. Hannah stayed low on contour and found the boot path which runs closer to the creek (watch for the cliff edge). Hannah made the better choice.
We left the trees and gained the Boulder Park cleaver. Sunny skinning for several thousand feet along the cleaver. One or two minor cracks before the shrund - easily avoidable. Skirted climbers right around the shrund, crossing it easily on skis. Switched to boot thereafter, booted 2/3 of the headwall with an ice ax in one hand, ski pole in the other. Put on crampons for the last 1/3.
The three of us summitted between 2 and 2:30pm. There was an awesome weather effect happening where large billowy cumulus clouds surrounded us on all sides. We were more or less eye level with the middle of them. Nearby peaks were enshrouded. Wind was gentle from the north. And above us was clear blue sky. It looked threatening - like some of the darker clouds from the north would run over top the peak, but they almost always dissipated. It was like this for much of the climb. We were wondering what kind of weather condition was happening to cause this. Probably hot air rising over dark colored landscape forming the clouds. And our landscape was white.
We skied down the Park headwall about 3:30. I skied through rocks right above the route, Hannah and Kam trended slightly more to the east above where we crossed the shrund. Snow on the headwall was 1/2 inch breakable crust - skiable - but not exactly hero snow. Just below the shrund the snow got better and better with fast carve-able conditions under bright sunny skies. The mountain had a gorgeous bronzed and shimmery look.
The snow become mushier and finally quite grabby as we got close to treeline. We skied most of the way back to the point where the snow started. We reached the cars about 6pm and enjoyed some beers.
Fantastic trip! One of my favorite classic lines in the area. 8k of vertical!
Leaving the meadow I unfortunately trended right and more directly up the fall line. Hannah stayed low on contour and found the boot path which runs closer to the creek (watch for the cliff edge). Hannah made the better choice.
We left the trees and gained the Boulder Park cleaver. Sunny skinning for several thousand feet along the cleaver. One or two minor cracks before the shrund - easily avoidable. Skirted climbers right around the shrund, crossing it easily on skis. Switched to boot thereafter, booted 2/3 of the headwall with an ice ax in one hand, ski pole in the other. Put on crampons for the last 1/3.
The three of us summitted between 2 and 2:30pm. There was an awesome weather effect happening where large billowy cumulus clouds surrounded us on all sides. We were more or less eye level with the middle of them. Nearby peaks were enshrouded. Wind was gentle from the north. And above us was clear blue sky. It looked threatening - like some of the darker clouds from the north would run over top the peak, but they almost always dissipated. It was like this for much of the climb. We were wondering what kind of weather condition was happening to cause this. Probably hot air rising over dark colored landscape forming the clouds. And our landscape was white.
We skied down the Park headwall about 3:30. I skied through rocks right above the route, Hannah and Kam trended slightly more to the east above where we crossed the shrund. Snow on the headwall was 1/2 inch breakable crust - skiable - but not exactly hero snow. Just below the shrund the snow got better and better with fast carve-able conditions under bright sunny skies. The mountain had a gorgeous bronzed and shimmery look.
The snow become mushier and finally quite grabby as we got close to treeline. We skied most of the way back to the point where the snow started. We reached the cars about 6pm and enjoyed some beers.
Fantastic trip! One of my favorite classic lines in the area. 8k of vertical!
Cool route, we did the same trip on Friday and experience everything from rain, to snow, partly cloudy, to bluebird.
Cool ski line, would like to check out that line.
nice one Ben and crew! looks like a beautiful day up there, sounds like a great trip.
Yeah Ben and company!
I'm still slightly confused as to where the park headwall begins and ends. I always thought that it was the slope you see from baker ski hill, and only the profile was viewable while going up the cleaver. Not saying it's not the hw, just that I don't know. Neat to be able to ski off the summit lump regardless.
I'm still slightly confused as to where the park headwall begins and ends. I always thought that it was the slope you see from baker ski hill, and only the profile was viewable while going up the cleaver. Not saying it's not the hw, just that I don't know. Neat to be able to ski off the summit lump regardless.
I think you are right, the headwall proper is the face we booted up and Hannah and I skied. Ben took a variation down the more easterly face, through the rockbands.
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