May 21, 2005, Mt Adams
5/21/05
WA Cascades West Slopes South (Mt Rainier)
3202
3
Friday morning. There had been moisture with a 5500' snow level all week, and the forecast was for a break in the storm cycle from midnight to noon on Saturday. Was this a chance to snag some freshies in the SW chutes? Pow on a volcano in May is a rare treat, one worth making some efforts to find.
I headed south, taking I-5, 215, 7, 14, and fS 23 to Trout Lake, 232 miles from Mt Vernon in 4.5 hours. Napped in the car until the last flurry of the day was spent, leaving the car at 4:30.
By 6:30 I was in the last clump of trees, at about 7500 ft. Given the increasing wind, it made no sense to go higher, so I dug a cave the size of a luxury coffin and spent the night dreaming of sleep, and listening to my freshies being blown in the general direction of Yakima.
By 8:30 Saturday morning I was standing on polished, pebble ice at the Lunch Counter, looking at the shiny blue patches and 2 ft. saragustri waves on the SW chutes and South face. The light was getting flat, the storm hole closing. Not wanting to volunteer myself for the sort of tortured adventure that sounds like a lot of fun the next day, I pointed downhill. There would be no freshies skied in the SW chutes on this day.
I enjoyed 3500 ft. of descent through seas of shallow saragustri, patches of smooth, wind packed powder, and softening crust below camp. As I drove south through Trout Lake, I could see only the stump of Adams disappearing into the gathering clouds. I drove home via White Salmon, 141, 252 and I-5 in 5 hours (307 miles). FS 23 is a half hour and 75 miles shorter that the southern route.
I headed south, taking I-5, 215, 7, 14, and fS 23 to Trout Lake, 232 miles from Mt Vernon in 4.5 hours. Napped in the car until the last flurry of the day was spent, leaving the car at 4:30.
By 6:30 I was in the last clump of trees, at about 7500 ft. Given the increasing wind, it made no sense to go higher, so I dug a cave the size of a luxury coffin and spent the night dreaming of sleep, and listening to my freshies being blown in the general direction of Yakima.
By 8:30 Saturday morning I was standing on polished, pebble ice at the Lunch Counter, looking at the shiny blue patches and 2 ft. saragustri waves on the SW chutes and South face. The light was getting flat, the storm hole closing. Not wanting to volunteer myself for the sort of tortured adventure that sounds like a lot of fun the next day, I pointed downhill. There would be no freshies skied in the SW chutes on this day.
I enjoyed 3500 ft. of descent through seas of shallow saragustri, patches of smooth, wind packed powder, and softening crust below camp. As I drove south through Trout Lake, I could see only the stump of Adams disappearing into the gathering clouds. I drove home via White Salmon, 141, 252 and I-5 in 5 hours (307 miles). FS 23 is a half hour and 75 miles shorter that the southern route.
A climb well executed and wisely abandoned like a truly seasoned climber that is not so bold as to prematurely end his climbing days ;)
Nice report, Tim, lots of good judgement, info and stats.
Nice report, Tim, lots of good judgement, info and stats.
I am planning on travelling down to Adams next week. I couldn't find your route on my map, Tim. 14 goes along the Columbia River valley and I couldn't find 215 at all.
I live across the border, so I will pick up the freeway at Bellingham. I thought that I would get off at exit 127 and then drop down on 7 to Morton, take 12 to Randle, where I would get on FR23. I believe that was the way that I came 5 or 6 years ago to climb the mountain. Does anybody out there know any reasons to avoid this route?
An old thread stated that the $15.00 permit was required after June 1st. Is this still the case? If so, can they be purchased when the FS office at Trout Lake is closed? How do I find out the office hours?
This heat wave that we are experiencing now will definitely have an impact on the snow conditions..... hopefully, not too negatively. After reading about the SW slopes last spring, I am anxious to ride my teleskis down them.Even skiing the "dog route" should be more fun than glissading it. I will be checking for updates from this weekend's warriors.
Thanks, Bob
I live across the border, so I will pick up the freeway at Bellingham. I thought that I would get off at exit 127 and then drop down on 7 to Morton, take 12 to Randle, where I would get on FR23. I believe that was the way that I came 5 or 6 years ago to climb the mountain. Does anybody out there know any reasons to avoid this route?
An old thread stated that the $15.00 permit was required after June 1st. Is this still the case? If so, can they be purchased when the FS office at Trout Lake is closed? How do I find out the office hours?
This heat wave that we are experiencing now will definitely have an impact on the snow conditions..... hopefully, not too negatively. After reading about the SW slopes last spring, I am anxious to ride my teleskis down them.Even skiing the "dog route" should be more fun than glissading it. I will be checking for updates from this weekend's warriors.
Thanks, Bob
Bob - FS Rd 23 should still work for you as before. As Tim points out, it is the shortest for most of us coming from the north. Sometimes after the climb, when I'm not feeling up to a windy mountain dirt road and want some services on the way home, I drop down to Hood River and take I-84 to Portland, the 205 cutoff to I-5 & back that way.
The FS Adams Climbing Report page should get the rest of your questions answered.
The FS Adams Climbing Report page should get the rest of your questions answered.
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