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Author Topic: mt Index Hour glass Couloir 4-16-2013  (Read 2596 times)
alecapone
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mt Index Hour glass Couloir 4-16-2013
« on: 04/18/13, 10:29 AM »

I remember watching a grand marnier commercial on here, but I couldn't find it. It was a french commercial with some kids who seemingly decide to go and get alpine. I dunno, it was in french with no subtitles. Kinda reminded me of Madame Liz Daley and Monsieur Drew Tabke. So Euro! how cool would that be, I always thought? Get up and alpine something by headlamp right outside you door?  yeah.. right.

Kololo and I where on a way back from a more notable day, where she tagged FOUR laps through the top phlight terrain park. As usuall, it was hard to keep the car between the mustard and the mayo, while trying to gawk up an Mt Index... "The Eiger of the Cascades"?, or so I have heard it called. This thing taunts me daily. as I drive, do my yard work, or even look out my bedroom window, there it is. The only named peak I can see from home. It was looking goood! I could see the snow line was still around 2,000' so I decided to give er a go. I grabbed some cheese for a snack as it was about the only thing i had that was kind of french like.


My route inspiration. Thanks Val! Wish I had the full moon to work with.

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1057056

my fancy route map. dots are down.

trail was snow free and I started up the one million, seriously, one million steps to lake serene. A little worried about how to tackle serene as the snow was pretty thin, but crispy. but,  Joy oh joy! when I hit it the lake was skiable! zoomed across with Index hulking over me in the starry sky. Skinning the saddle was easy enough, and soon I made my way up the semi steep east ridge. Climbing up some sections looked ridable, some obviously not. there where some old rap anchors... and some new Wink . It was just turning dawn so it was a little tough to navigate, but once it was light, everything was pretty obvious.


first light,



east ridge.


Other then the east ridge, most of the route is pretty moderate, and felt unexposed...

down,(there is a 200' cliff down there)
 


up..


pretty easy from here, go around looker left, and mellow snow to the top.




UP the hourglass i mostly booted the bed surface of a day old avi. just a small strip leaving plenty of good smooth snow for riding. Way less steep then I thought it would be. I gained teh upper ridge and hiked to a small col just below the summit and dropped my gear. You could easily ride from the summit, but it was too traversy for a snowboard to get back to where I was. I went and stood on the index's main summit. So airy. so Scarey. Even though i knew I wasn't on a cornice I still couldn't bring myself close to the edge.

how hard do you think it would be to tag them two? Wink middle and north index.



looking down the north face.




Wish I could have stayed longer, but it was getting warm, and past corn thirty on the lower slopes. The upper hour glass was holding good powder on its shady side. Face shots on index? priceless!
once out of the hour glass it was a combo of smooth corn, soft roller balls, and lots of shady pow hits! I rode it without stopping until I came tot eh end.

Decided against rapping the east ridge back down and ran out the east face until I hit the cliffs at the bottum. Knew the rope had to come out eventually anyways, and then made a couple fun wet of raps to mud creek. Skinned back to the east ridge gap, and down to serene. 

skiing back ac cross the lake I realised I was about 6 hours behind when I said I would be home. mostly on account of standing around half the day with my mouth a gape. so, at the outlet I gave Nyla a call and she said she would come and get me.Halfway down the trail we met and and she gave me a cold root beer. Thanks Nyla, your the best!


« Last Edit: 04/18/13, 10:47 AM by alecapone » Logged

scott
alecapone
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Re: mt Index Horse Shoe Couloir 4-16-2013
« Reply #1 on: 04/18/13, 10:34 AM »

sorry,, map.

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scott
snoholic
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Re: mt Index Hour glass Couloir 4-16-2013
« Reply #2 on: 04/18/13, 10:50 AM »

 Smiley, Glad you got it.
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andybrnr
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Re: mt Index Hour glass Couloir 4-16-2013
« Reply #3 on: 04/18/13, 10:51 AM »

Nice! We aborted on the tree arete earlier in the season. Very cool area, I think there's some big stuff that could go down off the ridge between Persis and Index with the right conditions.
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alecapone
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Re: mt Index Hour glass Couloir 4-16-2013
« Reply #4 on: 04/18/13, 11:03 AM »

Thanks guys!

I seen the photos of you guys hanging around. Wish you would have had better conditions.

Yes Andy, I've looked at persindex cirque from several vantage points. I think you are right. 

a side note.... I 'think' you can access index on skis without any rope work up or down if you take the slope just to the south of where I decended. Same access, skin across serene, but then drop down to mud creek.
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scott
LukerBee
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Re: mt Index Hour glass Couloir 4-16-2013
« Reply #5 on: 04/18/13, 11:15 AM »

I love Mt Index and have always thought it would be rad to get up there in the winter. I can't even imagine riding a line down it. Sick. Thanks for posting.
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Kyle Miller
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Re: mt Index Hour glass Couloir 4-16-2013
« Reply #6 on: 04/18/13, 11:34 AM »

On another level man.

So glad to hear you got this line, I can imagine how long you have dreamed of it.
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In a perfect world, everybody would act with the correct etiquette and follow the rules. Human nature as it is= NOT GOING TO HAPPEN....no matter how many discussion on ski blogs/websites. Face reality............
tabski
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Re: mt Index Hour glass Couloir 4-16-2013
« Reply #7 on: 04/18/13, 11:41 AM »

Sick, sick, sick. Gross even. Seems to be the winter of the Enigma Range, with Big Four, E Ramp of Three Fingers, and Index seeing ski lines.
http://www.alpenglow.org/themes/subalpine/

Amazing.
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JoshK
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Re: mt Index Hour glass Couloir 4-16-2013
« Reply #8 on: 04/18/13, 11:45 AM »

Sweet man! Way to get something awesome in your backyard. I did that rock climb traverse across the 3 peaks in the summer 7 or 8 years ago, and have always wanted to get back there in snowy conditions. It looks worthwhile!
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hedonaut
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Re: mt Index Hour glass Couloir 4-16-2013
« Reply #9 on: 04/18/13, 01:57 PM »

another nice one mr capone.  index-area lines have been on my radar for a long while, good to see someone actually get after it.  any recent photos of the N-facing walls, stepped back a little ways (like perhaps from the road)?

haha tabke, good find--"enigma range", i like it.
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JPH
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Re: mt Index Hour glass Couloir 4-16-2013
« Reply #10 on: 04/18/13, 02:13 PM »

Nice!

Has anyone ever skied the col that runs from due east from Pt 5160 down towards Mud Lake?  Looks like it could be pretty awesome with a decent low elevation snowpack.
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ND
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Re: mt Index Hour glass Couloir 4-16-2013
« Reply #11 on: 04/18/13, 08:56 PM »

Awesome! I've always thought about it when I've been up in the summer, good job getting it
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Jake the Brit
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Re: mt Index Hour glass Couloir 4-16-2013
« Reply #12 on: 04/18/13, 09:46 PM »

That's a great read,
...it's also a really intimidating mountain wot you just skiied down. Outrageous. Put that thing back where you found it!
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lrudholm
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Re: mt Index Hour glass Couloir 4-16-2013
« Reply #13 on: 04/18/13, 10:25 PM »

Nice Line!

Countless memories staring at that line on the drive back from stevens pass.

Way to step it up.
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Leyland
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Re: mt Index Hour glass Couloir 4-16-2013
« Reply #14 on: 04/19/13, 07:53 AM »

Way to go Scott! I know you've been wanting index for a while
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Saign
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Re: mt Index Hour glass Couloir 4-16-2013
« Reply #15 on: 04/19/13, 09:42 AM »

Well Played!!
Are you on suicide watch Scott?
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alecapone
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Re: mt Index Hour glass Couloir 4-16-2013
« Reply #16 on: 04/19/13, 11:47 AM »

Ha! No Joe, but I must admit, them park laps where borderline insane!

Honestly, other then the rap shennanigans, it's  fairly reasonable. Maybe slight confusion, but I did not ride the north side, but the side you see from the town of baring. Cant find a photo of it.

I don't think it's nearly in the same category as the big four, or three fingers decents. Maybe if you skied the north east side.

Sorry, I have no photos from across the way. Forgot the camera last time I went to heybrook... looks thinner then normal.



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scott
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Re: mt Index Hour glass Couloir 4-16-2013
« Reply #17 on: 04/20/13, 09:23 AM »

Well I've followed your trip reports this winter and been impressed withstanding the long tough approaches, solitude and exposures. I put myself temporarily in your boots and it's been (more than) exciting!
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kath
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Re: mt Index Hour glass Couloir 4-16-2013
« Reply #18 on: 04/20/13, 04:25 PM »

WOW! most impressive! you are the man scott .. a little sick but still the man!
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Tony_Bentley
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Re: mt Index Hour glass Couloir 4-16-2013
« Reply #19 on: 04/22/13, 02:18 PM »

Rad. I've always known it would go. Good to know someone finally got her.
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jesski
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Re: mt Index Hour glass Couloir 4-16-2013
« Reply #20 on: 04/22/13, 03:29 PM »

Awesome, Scott! Way to send.
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bringing the fun since 1984
jwplotz
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Re: mt Index Hour glass Couloir 4-16-2013
« Reply #21 on: 04/22/13, 08:44 PM »

Dammit Scott!  At this pace you're going to ride the Eve Dearborn Mem. route soon. Jesus. Nice pace this season dude!
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telemack
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Re: mt Index Hour glass Couloir 4-16-2013
« Reply #22 on: 04/23/13, 09:20 PM »

Rage, rage against the dying of the light.    Cool
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There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
George Santayana
alecapone
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Re: mt Index Hour glass Couloir 4-16-2013
« Reply #23 on: 04/26/13, 10:37 AM »

Dammit Scott!  At this pace you're going to ride the Eve Dearborn Mem. route soon. Jesus. Nice pace this season dude!

I think I'll pass on that one!

Reading recent tragic news, and the ensuing comments, i came across a gem from Lou Dawson stating that not sharing a mistake is selfish. I made the comment before of not wanting to be a case study. I was jokingly refering to mental case.

I made a minor error on this one, but not so much a skiing one, more like a calculation one on rappel. Now I know what to do.

http://www.climbing.com/skill/long-rappel-short-rope/

I also have a little mess to go clean up... but if anyone gets there first, there is a nice single rope hanging midway from the cliff above  upper mud creek.

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scott
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