March 30: Mt. Thielsen, OR

The forecast for Saturday was rain showers by 11am, thunderstorms from 2pm, and a temperature of 74*F in Eugene. Figuring I had to give Thielsen a chance after having to turn back just before the summit last April due to a whiteout and strong winds I left early and got to the trailhead at 8am. Temperature was around freezing and the snow mostly frozen. I followed the summer trail for about a mile before deciding to head straight up but ended up hitting the SW ridge that the regular trail follows anyway.

Snow conditions were just about firm enough in the trees to offer a fast climb but once I topped out above the tree line circa 7500ft at 10am the snow turned very hard. Ski crampons were sufficient with care, the steep upper slopes and zero penetration made for apprehensive transitions. I took my time to avoid a nasty fall and let the sun do its work. It was certainly very warm but a gusty wind was limiting the snow melt. I enjoyed the views while slowly progressing to the summit saddle at 11:30am.  Decided at against going to the base of pinnacle because of rockfall and icefall that was constantly petering down, plus there were plenty of exposed rocks below there.  Soloing the summit pinnacle isn't my cup of tea (but would follow if someone else led climbed). Sunbathed with great view for 45mins, by then the snow was perfect corn for great snappy turns without any slop. So good that after descending 1200ft to where the trees start again I decided I had to skin back up to the top. At 12.25pm the snow was much softer and I didn't need and ski crampons, only fitness slowed my down to top out again at 1:15pm. A quick transition and I got to ski the face again, also very good conditions, softer and more penetration but nothing sloppy.

The trip back to the car was mostly ok but very sticky sloppy snow in the balmy temperatures. Got stuck in a few thick scrubby trees but mostly open old growth.

Was the only person on the mountain, crazy!