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| | |-+  April 14, 2005, Mt Stuart, Ice Cliff Glacier
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Author Topic: April 14, 2005, Mt Stuart, Ice Cliff Glacier  (Read 5488 times)
skykilo
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April 14, 2005, Mt Stuart, Ice Cliff Glacier
« on: 04/18/05, 06:55 AM »

Cyril, Ross, and I made a one day attempt at the Ice Cliff.  Above the bergschrund the snow was just way too deep; we could only make very slow progress by swimming. (Place knee, shin, and boot all into snow with equal pressure, punch arm into snow as far as possible, and hope to gain a little vertical.  Repeat ad nauseam.)  The time was three in the afternoon so we made the decision to descend well below the couloir's midpoint.

The descent was great.  Super deep pow.  We poked at the snow a whole bunch and the layers seemed pretty much glued together.  I'm glad it was a cold day, though.  It could get ugly up high real quick this week eh?  I would have posted a TR sooner, but this is my first time in front of a computer since then.  

There is way more ice exposed on the Ice Cliff than there was a month later last year.  Ross did all the leading and he generally took the spiciest option for being on the climber's left of the glacier.  One of the highlights was watching him take a nice little whipper on a Titanium screw, strictly for the sake of gear testing, of course.  It was Cyril's first time to do any climbing with two tools.  He did great.  

We skied the glacier with one rappel.  It felt so cool to rappel with skis on our feet, but it wasn't nearly as smooth as rappeling usually is.  Maybe there's some technique to master there; I'll have to try it again.  Cyril removed his skis on the rappel, so no cookie for him.

I'm gonna ski that sucker off the summit next time (conditions permitting).  Enough of this foolishness.
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Jason_H.
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Re: April 14, 2005, Mt Stuart, Ice Cliff Glacier
« Reply #1 on: 04/18/05, 07:08 AM »

Nice Sky. Great attempt! I read on cc.com that some others also turned around on this route.
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Paul Belitz
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Re: April 14, 2005, Mt Stuart, Ice Cliff Glacier
« Reply #2 on: 04/18/05, 07:35 AM »

Quote
a nice little whipper on a Titanium screw


Hauling someone with a broken ankle out of there would suck.
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kfoxpnw
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Re: April 14, 2005, Mt Stuart, Ice Cliff Glacier
« Reply #3 on: 04/18/05, 01:03 PM »

Hey, I was one of the 2 dudes you passed on your way out.  There is a post of our TR on the Cascade Climbers page.
All I can say is what you skied was really impressive!  Cranking turns above the Icefall and the sweet little air someone got off one of the small ice bits.  We were checking out your tracks on the way up and oohing and aahing.
The snow was deep!  More of a wallow than a climb but we bailed a bit below where yall did.  Your boot tracks were hardly visible by 8 the next morning.  We tried to use them but it gave us no advantage.
Next time... Grin
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cyril
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Re: April 14, 2005, Mt Stuart, Ice Cliff Glacier
« Reply #4 on: 05/06/05, 12:24 PM »

sky is very generous.  I was pretty scared on the sheets of blue, and ross's whipper was gladly cushioned by the deep pow caking the shelves.  If someone other than sky had written this report they surely would have mentioned the 1:30 am departure with a 8:30pm return, with ross and I agreeing that sky's day trips are a little harsh.  They led a smooth approach through the creeks and trees at night.  
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TeleRoss
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Re: April 14, 2005, Mt Stuart, Ice Cliff Glacier
« Reply #5 on: 05/06/05, 12:55 PM »

Cyril...
Read the Jack Mtn trip report.....
23 hours straight.  Only difference is that that one was my idea...ha ha ha.
That one whooped Sky's ass.  He passed out as soon as we reached the car with his headlamp still on and one leg hanging out the door of the truck. Classic!
Wink
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David_Coleman
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Re: April 14, 2005, Mt Stuart, Ice Cliff Glacier
« Reply #6 on: 05/06/05, 02:02 PM »

Yeah Ross, I can only imagine...I found that part quite funny.  He's one of the only guys I know that can fall asleep immediately upon sitting down.  Wink

We'll see if Jason's got any to add after the Logan expedition.
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