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| | |-+  August 11, 2012, Mt. Baker, Squak Glacier
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Author Topic: August 11, 2012, Mt. Baker, Squak Glacier  (Read 1782 times)
runningclouds
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August 11, 2012, Mt. Baker, Squak Glacier
« on: 08/13/12, 07:41 PM »

Inspired by Amar's spectacular report from July 28 we decided to check it out and Squak did not disappoint.

Sadly I cannot compete with Amar's peerless reporting AND I do not have any bikini shots so here is just a brief update on the conditions:
  • Scott Paul trail is free of snow all the way to the col, the large tree had been cut and removed.
  • Very little snow from the col to about 1575 m (5170 ft) where we changed shoes for ski boots. From there it is an almost continuous skiing, just three short carry overs within the first 20 minutes.
  • No traffic on Squak, on the way up we saw three climbers on Upper Easton and just two groups on the summit. On the way down we passed a guided group of nine. No skiers.
  • Squak is in great shape, some crevasses, but lots of options to avoid them. Upper Easton has a couple long crevasses. Still easily passable but it might get difficult soon.
  • Skiers right side on Upper Easton is no longer doable, we had to ski down along the uptrack. Also the section beneath the two crevasses to the Summit Crater col was refrozen tracks and waves. Difficult skiing, but luckily it is a pretty short section. Skiing Squak proper was a delight.

Slideshow with Google Earth map:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/runningclouds/sets/72157631053218346/






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ron j
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Re: August 11, 2012, Mt. Baker, Squak Glacier
« Reply #1 on: 08/13/12, 08:30 PM »

Great pictures.
Good info.
Nice work.
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Alexander
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Re: August 11, 2012, Mt. Baker, Squak Glacier
« Reply #2 on: 08/13/12, 09:50 PM »

Great pictures!  The one entitled "Oliver crossing between two crevasses" is my favorite ;-)
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ShailCaesar!
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Re: August 11, 2012, Mt. Baker, Squak Glacier
« Reply #3 on: 08/17/12, 11:34 AM »

Just enquiring, is there a sign marking the climbers trail off the Scott Paul? Do you leave the Scott Paul right at the col? Is there an obvious boot pack if not? Thanks in advance!
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Amar Andalkar
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Re: August 11, 2012, Mt. Baker, Squak Glacier
« Reply #4 on: 08/17/12, 06:28 PM »

Thanks for the report, I appreciate the useful details. Very helpful for planning my revisit to the Squak a few days later.

Based on your report of minimal snow along the ridge above the 4600 ft saddle, we decided to take the late summer approach instead, which stays on the Scott Paul Trail for almost a mile past the saddle, then goes up a moraine just before the first glacial river crossing near 5000 ft. Reached continuous skiable snow at 5150 ft that way, following the valley of that stream just west of Crag View.

If I may offer a minor correction, the area that you call the "Upper Easton" (what is commonly, perhaps erroneously, referred to as the east side of the Roman Wall) is actually part of the Deming Glacier. Although the upper part of the Easton climbing route ascends there, all of the glacial ice on that face (west of the 9720 ft Sherman Crater saddle) flows towards the terminus of the Deming Glacier, not the Easton Glacier.


Just enquiring, is there a sign marking the climbers trail off the Scott Paul? Do you leave the Scott Paul right at the col? Is there an obvious boot pack if not? Thanks in advance!

Like almost all climber's trails, there is no sign. The path is very obvious though once the snow is gone. However, it's almost never the optimal way to go once the snow is gone / not continuous from the saddle. Always best to stay on the Scott Paul Trail, either a short distance to the first snow-filled gully near 4800 ft, or the next snow-filled gully, or if those are melted out, continue to the unmarked climber's trail on the moraine just before the first glacial river crossing near 5000 ft (see my August 15 Squak Glacier trip report), or another climber's trail up a subsequent moraine.

« Last Edit: 08/17/12, 06:58 PM by Amar Andalkar » Logged

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