July 4, 2012, Mt. Baker, North Ridge
7/4/12
WA Cascades West Slopes North (Mt Baker)
2481
0
We climbed the higher ridge start and right ice pitch variations as shown in Steph Abeggs route overlay: http://images.summitpost.org/original/797594.jpg. The high ridge start was still in good shape.
At the ice cliff, because another party was going for the right ice pitch option just ahead of us, we attempted the route just to the left of it. That turned out to be beyond our (my) leading abilities with skis on my pack. We eventually retreated, climbed back down and up for the proper right pitch variation as shown in Stephs shot: http://images.summitpost.org/original/797595.jpg. In retrospect we should have probably gone around the corner to the "standard" route since we had skis and very limited experience on ice with non-trivial packs.
From the summit we descended with skis back to our camp side. Roman wall was in good shape and crevasses were well filled in. Excellent spring corn on the way down.
Gear: 8 ice screws, I believe I ended up placing 4-5, ice tools, 2x 30m half ropes, picket placed on glacier crossing near sketchy snow bridge. Ski crampons used for glacier crossing.
Overall an excellent day out.
At the ice cliff, because another party was going for the right ice pitch option just ahead of us, we attempted the route just to the left of it. That turned out to be beyond our (my) leading abilities with skis on my pack. We eventually retreated, climbed back down and up for the proper right pitch variation as shown in Stephs shot: http://images.summitpost.org/original/797595.jpg. In retrospect we should have probably gone around the corner to the "standard" route since we had skis and very limited experience on ice with non-trivial packs.
From the summit we descended with skis back to our camp side. Roman wall was in good shape and crevasses were well filled in. Excellent spring corn on the way down.
Gear: 8 ice screws, I believe I ended up placing 4-5, ice tools, 2x 30m half ropes, picket placed on glacier crossing near sketchy snow bridge. Ski crampons used for glacier crossing.
Overall an excellent day out.
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