April 29, 2012, Snoqualmie Mt. / Phantom Slide
4/29/12
WA Snoqualmie Pass
2387
1
Climbed Snoqualmie Mountain on Sunday, finally making it to the top (every other time it's been howling up there!). There was a fairly reactive layer up top that was reliably sliding 1-2" deep but not propagating and stopping quickly, and pinwheels/balls that would run for a while. Had to ski smart to not get hit by my own pinwheels and ski cut one slope. I was being pretty conservative though....I don't think it was too bad as the temp was warm but stable in the all-day low clouds. Lower in the Phantom where I thought it would be scary it was actually more stable, but super super grabby (I waxed pink/yellow mix the night before and was still getting tugged good). Approach is getting super nasty, direct may not go for much longer.
An extremely sporty skin track! ...this is the standard route that starts directly below the waterfall. Obviously this feature won't last much longer, and was pretty sketch when not frozen. Ski crampons are all that kept me on this thing. Following the standard skin track will lead to a rock band that has melted out that requires skis on pack, both hands making slippery class 2 moves for 5 feet. If going up through the trees I recommend abandoning the standard track entirely, head into the forest low, follow the steep creek gully (last pic) up the whole way....that avoids pic 1 and the rock band. But it would be a damn steep and tight skin track. First North switchback away from gully would still work for now, but that's about it for the old track. Better idea: bring an axe and some sweet moves and rock/steep snow climb the melted out waterfall. Directissmo! Best idea: climb the east or northwest flanks of the mountain.
Note: My Momix skins failed me big time, but it may be the water content was so high lower on the mountain that it was the partly the snow's fault.
The Slot looking like a spooky dropoff into the clouds. Wasn't on the menu today.
Obligatory summit photo of Chair Peak environs. May be able to pick out the small amount of water showing on Snow Lake at the couloir. Light color may indicate water is on surface of ice rather than a true hole.
Sporty descent! This is very near the bottom.
An extremely sporty skin track! ...this is the standard route that starts directly below the waterfall. Obviously this feature won't last much longer, and was pretty sketch when not frozen. Ski crampons are all that kept me on this thing. Following the standard skin track will lead to a rock band that has melted out that requires skis on pack, both hands making slippery class 2 moves for 5 feet. If going up through the trees I recommend abandoning the standard track entirely, head into the forest low, follow the steep creek gully (last pic) up the whole way....that avoids pic 1 and the rock band. But it would be a damn steep and tight skin track. First North switchback away from gully would still work for now, but that's about it for the old track. Better idea: bring an axe and some sweet moves and rock/steep snow climb the melted out waterfall. Directissmo! Best idea: climb the east or northwest flanks of the mountain.
Note: My Momix skins failed me big time, but it may be the water content was so high lower on the mountain that it was the partly the snow's fault.
The Slot looking like a spooky dropoff into the clouds. Wasn't on the menu today.
Obligatory summit photo of Chair Peak environs. May be able to pick out the small amount of water showing on Snow Lake at the couloir. Light color may indicate water is on surface of ice rather than a true hole.
Sporty descent! This is very near the bottom.
Thanks for the report. This helps with my planning for the week.
Cheers.
Cheers.
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