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Mt hood questions renewed
- ace117
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Thanks
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- telemack
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I don't know how far west the schrund extends. The bootpack should be a giant trough by now.
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- rlsg
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Seems like there are a lot of people here in my home state of Oregon that have no idea what self belay is..
They seem to think they will self arrest...all I can say, if you get to that point give her everything you got because self arrest takes A LOT OF PRACTICE!! (I for one along with many am not practiced enough in self arrest...it is THE LAST RESORT...Mt Hood is way under estimated for the basic honed skills needed...I think statistic will back that up.)
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- ace117
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I live in seattle, i was doing a bunch of research and stuff talking to my dad who has done it etc etc, i have done Mt Adams, mt snowqualmie and some other peaks so I am not unfamiliar with climbing/bc skiing. Hopefully, I won't get there and be part way up and look at it and say its too gnarly and turn around. haha! Thanks for you input guys! Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
How far off the path was the crevace telemack, was it anything to be concerned about? I understand it's hard to answer that question haha. Thanks again man!
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- andyski
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Completely agree rlsg on roping up: If you're going to place protection, fine. If not, it strikes me as silly on the old chute. Crampons and an ice axe were mandatory when I did it a couple weeks ago, and having a whippet on top of that was helpful. Wear a helmet on the ascent. Don't get influenced by dummies doing all kinds of weird stuff up there (no helmets, no crampons, skiing right over climbers and showering ice all over them, etc.). Do it right and have fun.
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- Marcus
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Hopefully, I won't get there and be part way up and look at it and say its too gnarly and turn around.
Good luck Ace -- good advice so far for you here. I just wanted to say, re: the quote above, that being able to look up, says it's too gnarly and turn around is a huge skill in itself. I'm often more pleased with the trips on which I've been able to do that than I am with any others.
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- Scotsman
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If you attempt a route or climb without any beta it's like a first ascent whereas if you do it with all the beta available... it's more like a redpoint to use climbing parlance.
Not taking any sides... I get beta from the internet as well but the article was thought provoking and I think true.... namely..people want as much beta as possible to ensure success/safety rather than attempt something and venture into the unknown. Although there are advantages to this... something is lost as well.
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- ace117
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Is anyone else on here going up? I understand the difference of mt hood from my previous hikes.
I heard in may there was a huge step blocking the pearly gates. I am sure its all gone by now, but it looked pretty sick when I saw pictures haha.
This good weather is so hard to pass up!!!!!
Thanks again guys.
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- pcg
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+100!If you attempt a route or climb without any beta it's like a first ascent whereas if you do it with all the beta available... it's more like a redpoint to use climbing parlance.
..people want as much beta as possible to ensure success/safety rather than attempt something and venture into the unknown. Although there are advantages to this... something is lost as well.
Personally I embody a cautious approach towards climbing, and take full advantage of available equipment, beta, and wisdom that I have managed to glean from others. Nonetheless, I also take something valuable from the mindset of the Hood pioneers.
The adventures of Gary Denzel Leech, as documented in Walking Up and Down in the World, by Smoke Blanchard, offer a refreshing perspective. Here are excerpts from an account of one of Gary's Hood climbs, circa 1930, without ice axe, crampons, or parka:
“No sooner had I started that I regretted ever having made plans for climbing on this day, for the weather was none too favorable… If I had quit there, as it later developed, I would have spoiled a better record of climbing Hood 116 times without turning around for any reason… I made myself go at the task. I attacked the step cutting in a furious manner, hacking at the blue ice. I was not very cold, not with the alpenstock whirling like an idling propeller. My time to the lookout was over nine hours, with about four hours being used to negotiate the Chute, which I had previously climbed in fifteen minutes… I set off back across the rim top… Along its marrow portion, the relentless wind upset me several times, causing me to flounder helplessly until the slides were arrested with the alpenstock or feet. The act of descending my several hundred gouged steps… was an art in itself…once out of my steps, my slippery shoes would have been helpless in a slide…”
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- pin!head
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This was totally weather/condition dependent. Any other day....and the style would had been totally different!
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- T. Eastman
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"If you attempt a route or climb without any beta it's like a first ascent whereas if you do it with all the beta available... it's more like a redpoint to use climbing parlance."
If you know that a route has been done, it has little in common with a "first ascent."
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- telemack
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The schrund was E of the Hogsback 2 weeks ago; now I don't know. It's a fine tour to leave skis at the Hogsback and summit without; the summit pitch is out of character with the rest of the skiing.
Watch out or crowds. At least one roped team has clotheslined another into the schrund!
So much for "the Brotherhood of the Rope".
Most of the climbers 2 Sundays ago started so early that they were all down off the bottlenecks at the various chutes by the time we toddled up at the gentlemanly hour of 11 AM. I don't know if you could count on that; we were favored by little rock fall but the snow was still firm in the Old Chute at nearly 1 PM..
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- pin!head
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....snip...."the summit pitch is out of character with the rest of the skiing."
Must be me, but the bottom 5000' of skiing is out of charachter with the top/summit pitch..
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- telemack
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Humph! You probably think skiing downhill is the fun part of the tour too.Must be me, but the bottom 5000' of skiing is out of charachter with the top/summit pitch..
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- pin!head
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Humph! You probably think skiing downhill is the fun part of the tour too.
....at a rate of 1000' per hour on the up :-[ :'( :-[...You've got it right
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