May 28-30, Stuart, Sherpa and Ice Cliff Glaciers
5/15/11
WA Cascades East Slopes Central
3693
9
I spent Memorial Day weekend skiing around Mt. Stuart, where I skied the Sherpa Glacier with Leah Samberg, and Ice Cliff Glacier solo. For the Ice Cliff, I ascended the route, bypassing the ice cliff on the extreme looker's left, then weaved a path of least resistance to the upper couloir, uncovering thinly veiled crevasses along the way. I found the bergschrund hard to cross, and ended up skinning across a terrifying ice bridge. The cornice at the top was minimal - easily surmounted straight up the middle without the need for even an ice axe.
Weather was deteriorating at the top of the route, and I did not continue higher to the false or true summit. I put skis on at the top of the route and sidestepped the upper 20 feet with an ice axe. I skied the remainder of the route continuously. The upper couloir was 50/55 degrees and had a healthy mix of powder and ice. The bergschrund crossing was scary, and my skis opened up a sizeable hole while skimming above its gaping entrance. I was able to ski the ice cliff via a series of ramps on the extreme looker's left edge. All in all an interesting ski mountaineering puzzle with some great skiing and serious objective hazards.
The road was closed at the Bridge Creek Campground. Photos are looking up at the route, looking down from mid-way up the upper couloir, and skiing the Sherpa Glacier the previous day.
Weather was deteriorating at the top of the route, and I did not continue higher to the false or true summit. I put skis on at the top of the route and sidestepped the upper 20 feet with an ice axe. I skied the remainder of the route continuously. The upper couloir was 50/55 degrees and had a healthy mix of powder and ice. The bergschrund crossing was scary, and my skis opened up a sizeable hole while skimming above its gaping entrance. I was able to ski the ice cliff via a series of ramps on the extreme looker's left edge. All in all an interesting ski mountaineering puzzle with some great skiing and serious objective hazards.
The road was closed at the Bridge Creek Campground. Photos are looking up at the route, looking down from mid-way up the upper couloir, and skiing the Sherpa Glacier the previous day.
Hell of a first TR -- sounds pretty sporty on the Ice Cliff, glad you found your way through it. Had my palms sweating a bit.
Nice one! I had a similar experience on the ICG this winter with thinly veiled schrund and crevasses. The hazards of the ICG probably merits a "top in" approach to this line. AJ Scott had an up close and personal experience with that huge bergschrund last spring!
Well done, bstory.
How would dropping into it help with knowing where those nasty bergschrund holes are at the bottom of the couloir? It seems like that would increase the risk, to me. At least climbing it you can scout it and make a conscientious decision of where the best place to ski through there is.
Edit: Perhaps I understand if you're doing it solo. Maybe in that case it's just risky both ways.
How would dropping into it help with knowing where those nasty bergschrund holes are at the bottom of the couloir? It seems like that would increase the risk, to me. At least climbing it you can scout it and make a conscientious decision of where the best place to ski through there is.
Edit: Perhaps I understand if you're doing it solo. Maybe in that case it's just risky both ways.
Yeah, good point. I was just thinking from the perspective of having climbed it before and already knowing where those nasty cracks are. Id rather ski over them next time than boot across them on the way up.
I'll shut up now and stick to climbing warm granite.
I'll shut up now and stick to climbing warm granite.
I think they're somewhat sneaky and mobile. But I'm not trying to be argumentative so sorry if it seems so. I'll also stifle myself now and stick to warm sunny basalt, granite, ryolite and sandstone.
Sweet trip, bstory.
Sweet trip, bstory.
Awesome trip. In my 3-4 tries of that route, I never did get it in condition enough to ski it. I'm excited to see that it is still good even this late in the season. Awesome work!
author=skykilo link=topic=20998.msg89786#msg89786 date=1307048571]
I'll also stifle myself now and stick to warm sunny basalt, granite, ryolite and sandstone.
Sweet trip, bstory.
Sounds like you have the four corners well covered!
Neato B!
I usually just go up to the bottum and run away...
Back to climbing on the roof and cleaning gutters for me.
I usually just go up to the bottum and run away...
Back to climbing on the roof and cleaning gutters for me.
Thanks for the kind words, fellas. Yeah, I was a little surprised to find it still condition this late in the year, but this has been an unusual year all around, at least in Montana. I was also a little surprised to be able to unlock the route on the first trip, given its complex, challenging, and dangerous nature.
As for the comparative safety of climbing versus descending from the top down - I suppose it'd be safest to climb the route first with a partner and rope, bit dropping in from the top with prior knowledge of where the crevasses are would work too. Or, check out the crevasses in late summer. But who am I to speak after skiing it solo...
As for the comparative safety of climbing versus descending from the top down - I suppose it'd be safest to climb the route first with a partner and rope, bit dropping in from the top with prior knowledge of where the crevasses are would work too. Or, check out the crevasses in late summer. But who am I to speak after skiing it solo...
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