Cross-threaded dynafit spring barrel

I usually yank the brakes off my dynafits and switch to leashes for "summer mode" since I spend more time carrying the skis during summer and less time in the resorts.

Problem with this approach are the weak plastic threads for the spring barrel on the heal posts are too easily cross-threaded.

Usually I can get it done with some careful maneuvering of the spring barrel, but my latest attempt F'd it up for good.

So two questions -

1. Where can I obtain a heal post for Dynafit comforts? Or does anyone have some scraps for sale?
2. Any new tricks for avoiding this mess? I've read the stuff on Wild Snow - nothing new there. My plan now is to just leave the things alone and keep the brakes on permanently.

Take a picture of the affected part(s) and send it in an e-mail explaining what happened to:

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Sarah's the best. Sounds like you need the threaded end cap, not a new heel post?

Sounds like you buggered up the plastic threads on the heel unit that mate with the spring cap. Hope I'm wrong.

I have 2 prs of Comforts and I have taken the heel unit off the post about 20 times. Here's a tip to prevent cross threading.

1-Use a finger only to get the cap started back on. No tools.
2- Rotate the cap counter clockwise until you feel a little "click" that tells you the thread entries are in the mating position.
3-Turn clockwise, with finger only. If there is ANY resistance, stop and try again.
4- On both my bindings, a very slight upward pressure as I start screwing the cap on with my finger seems to make it easier.

Yes, I screwed up the plastic female threads on the heal post. The metal barrel insert is fine.

@wooley12 - that's been my technique, but this time it did not work out so well.

Thanks!

Depending on how deeply you buggered the threads, you can maybe save it. If it's only the first few threads it might clean up and give the cap full thread contact when you get to your DIN#. The trick would be to use and Xacto knife to clean off the loose threads, get another cap, file groves across the threads like a tap and give it a go. Haven't tried it, only theory. Please post a followup after you contact Selawa. Hope they will sell you the plastic housing only. If not you will have a spare heel post, pins and springs. After you contact Selawa maybe you can try Adam at Pro Ski or Martin at Pro Guiding. They may have spare parts or binding heel units with a broken post.

I think you may have skipped #3 in my how to. I learned early on the hard way that if a threaded connection doesn't join or separate easily, step back and rethink it. Yet I still spun 2 screws with a Manaslu mount.

Could be worse, I live at 600' above sea level and need to drive 8 hours to gain 2000' and snow. Skiing is over for me until next December. I just happen to be a Dynafiddler with a mechanical background 

Could be worse, I live at 600' above sea level and need to drive 8 hours to gain 2000' and snow. Skiing is over for me until next December.

We're not meeting up at Greek Peak this coming weekend (when Micayla visits her grandparents in Binghamton)?
Anyway, to those tips I would add keeping your head at the same level as the binding. Somehow when I bend down there, I think that keeps the cap going in straighter -- maybe if I'm standing up instead then I unwittingly apply some downward pressure?
Also, if you do decide to buy a plastic heel unit housing (and just the housing), then transferring over all the little parts is getting into pretty advanced Dynafitting.

In general Dynafit bindings need taken apart and put together with kid gloves.
Don't give that last Jersey Joe twist to make sure it's on good and tight because the plastic parts are going to strip or the screws snap. Just put everything in snug and call it good. Even if you are increasing the tension of the DIN and peg it out just go till its stops because the screws are easy to strip.

Also, if you do decide to buy a plastic heel unit housing (and just the housing), then transferring over all the little parts is getting into pretty advanced Dynafitting.

Advanced in that you have to take the entire binding apart except for the baseplate/post to install a new housing, but not really complicated if you are somewhat mechanically inclined. Don't forget to grease the pivot post and spring when re-assembling.

No word back yet from Sarah...

Have sent messages to local shops seeing if there are any spare heel posts lying around for sale. I'd prefere to just buy the complete heel post and not monkey with anything else.

And I appreciate all the advice about how careful one needs to be with that poorly designed thread system, but keep in mind that I was aware of the potential problems there, and in this case, there was no avoiding it.

And I appreciate all the advice about how careful one needs to be with that poorly designed thread system, but keep in mind that I was aware of the potential problems there, and in this case, there was no avoiding it.

I can see how that could be viewed as a design flaw, I would not call it poorly designed, just a very minimal (tight) tolerance for error. It really has to be considering the load it is compressing with plastic threads. So I think it is magnificent engineering. Also the spring at times may not seat completely, so I make sure that all parts are in order before the 1st twist of the main screw is made.  Patience is a virtue working with these bindings!

Not really looking to debate the engineering of dynafits with this post, but the plastic threads are the design flaw.  Especially with a fine threaded female insert made of metal.  It's obviously a problem, as most people struggle with that connection.  I spent 2 hours trying to hand thread the connection with all the tricks in the book, so lack of patience wasn't really the problem here.

Not really looking to debate the engineering of dynafits with this post, but the plastic threads are the design flaw.  Especially with a fine threaded female insert made of metal.  It's obviously a problem, as most people struggle with that connection.  I spent 2 hours trying to hand thread the connection with all the tricks in the book, so lack of patience wasn't really the problem here.

Sorry, my response was not intended to get you worked up in a lather. I can understand your frustration. Once it's cross thread damaged its time to move on, all the patience in the world is not going to bring it back from the dead. Unless someone here has a solution to tapping the heel piece.
I wonder where are you expecting this thread to go if you question the design flaw, but don't want to discuss the engineering?
Sounds like upper management to me :

The good guys at Marmot have some parts that work on my bindings for just a few bucks.

Salewa got back to me - Sarah has left for other opportunities. They no longer have Comfort parts available. Their best option was to replace the entire heal post with one of the newer vertical models for $120, which also seemed like a perfectly fine option.

Thanks for the advice on how to get these binders up and running again!