Home > Trip Reports > August 14, 2010, Talum Glacier Mt. Baker

August 14, 2010, Talum Glacier Mt. Baker

8/14/10
WA Cascades West Slopes North (Mt Baker)
5133
7
Posted by Lisa on 8/16/10 5:15am
With the Percied Meteor showers and hot temperatures in the forecast a trip to Baker was in order.  Scott, (Alecapone) and I ventured up Friday night to a camp at 5300 ft.
Scott brought two point and shoot cameras along so we could both take photos which was a treat as I have not yet replaced my broken camera and have missed taking photos.

From camp I scoped out the Talum glacier and suggested we ski it instead of the originally planned Squak.  We sipped our cocktails and enjoyed watching the Meteor showers as the sky grew dark.

Jake met us at 8:45 Saturday morning at our camp and we set off hiking the ridge to Craigview to scope out our plan. We began to ski toward the Talum while Scott who had forgotten his skins was walking which was slow going vs. our skinning, so I took the rope from him and Jake his board to speed things up. 

The Talum looked to be in good shape and a meander through a crevasse field led us to its base. 
I chose a line to climb up through some rock outcroppings instead of the steep headwall.
Climbing here was steep and a bit unnerving atop open moats that lingered below. 
Jake kicked some great steps that I gladly followed while Scott in his crampons climbed aside us. 
Some fresh water spewing from the rocks had me directing Jake toward the water. 
I am often filling up when I can although this spot was not as safe as it looked.  Jake quickly scrambled up in his mountain boots while I struggled in the wet gravel rock in my ski boots.  My pack with skis was not allowing me to easily gain hand holds and I feared my boots might slip out from under me leaving me sailing into the moat below.  I took off my pack and Jake offered to climb down and get it once I was safely out of harms way.   My vocalized fear and uncertainty of going up or retreating had Scott nervous so he kept his crampons on and continued up meeting us atop the rocks.
A few hundred feet more of steep snow put us at the base of Sherman Peaks rocky flanks at 8900 ft. 

We clipped into our skis and boards and began our descent.  The headwall I gather is 50 degrees, enough that we could not see the full route below.
The snow was smooth corn but as the slope steepened there were two small icy patches which caught Jake off guard and sent him sliding for a short bit before he was up again for a turn.  He then was back down tumbling head of over feet as we watched in horror as his axe went flying out of his hand until he came to rest at the bottom of the slope where he gracefully landed upright. 

Amazingly he was just fine having only lost his glasses and axe and in his usual good humor which made me laugh nearly uncontrollably till my stomach ached.  He is a brilliantly funny Brit whom is always a gas to have on a trip.

We traversed back to Craigview Rocks and rode down toward camp around 5500 ft where we took off skis and walked the final few hundred feet.
We packed up our camp and headed home relishing in the delight of a wonderful day and a fun steep ski.
More photos can be viewed on Scott's photo bucket link:  here
Like the form in that last pic...DAMN, that looks like a fun variation compared to the boring ol' Squaaaaaaaaaak.  Way to mix it up with a little technical climb/variation to get the heart pumpin'!

Thanks Dave, yes my heart was pumping hard alright as well as some words of disdain in the moments of uncertainty and fear on the dumb wet and sandy rock scramble.  We were thinking we would see you two on Saturday morning, it would have been fun to have you guys along on something other than the Squak.


I woulda joined...that variation looks fun...Where was your scramble?  Up through that hour-glass section after end running that lower crevasse field?

Yep, the rock is where the blue dots ascent in the first photo, not a good close up of it. 

Not everything goes somewhere but down will do for me.  ;)

Ha, graceful my ass!

That was a steep patch of mountain. If anyone repeats it, my yellow axe is lying around somewhere mid-slope. I know a bit more about trying to self arrest with a board strapped on: I think you've got to lift it up at your knees, otherwise you flip as it catches....
I'm also pleased I didn't leash the axe or I think I may been hit by it repeatedly as I flipped...

Great day out. Excellent company Lisa & Ale Capone, you guys knock out a really mellow day with some really fruity bits.



Lisa, you forgot to mention the cheeseburgers.

Nice write up. It was great finally getting out with you, and Jake as well. Both of you where very fun partners. Impressed with what you two where doing in your boots. Have to do it again sometime.

IS it standard protocol now to just post the allotted 3 thumbnail pics in full size, as long as I say I tried?

Lisa near the highpoint



Lisa(w/ reverse camera tilt...)



Jake

author=alecapone link=topic=17315.msg72995#msg72995 date=1282060647]
IS it standard protocol now to just post the allotted 3 thumbnail pics in full size, as long as I say I tried?


No... but protocol is somewhat relaxed while I'm rethinking the photo policy.

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Lisa
2010-08-16 12:15:19