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Topic: July 10, 2010 Castle to Unicorn (Read 2060 times)
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telemack
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Posts: 1320
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For the second time in a week Keith Henson and I did a day circuit on the flanks of Rainier. I thought I'd post the TR and he can add pics.
We left Reflection Lakes with a light rock rack in addtion to ski stuff. Continuous snow from the car. Booted and skinned past the Castle saddle, along the ridge to the top of Foss Peak. A marginal traverse along the W slope of Foss (will not be skiable in a few days) got us to the W side of Unicorn Creek, and we dropped in and traversed to the upper couloir of Unicorn. Passed a couple of Mountaineers' groups, but saw no other skiers.
We climbed the step above the col, then booted to the ridge and left snow tools. The summit tower of Unicorn Peak felt about 5.5, and was "entertaining" in big duckbills. My 30m rando rope just barely made the rappel.
Fine steep turns, with suncups only below 6000', led quickly to the Snow Lakes trail and multiple hiking families in sandals. Keith had brought light running shoes and left me in the dust/slush (Again! Old guys haul ass!) and had a ride back to his car. Trail is bare from Snow Lake to the road.
Onshore flow kept the temps lower than 3 days ago. Excellent high traverse. 
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« Last Edit: 09/17/10, 03:49 PM by telemack »
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There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
George Santayana
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Zap
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Posts: 1615
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Nice traverse.
Hey Keith, It had to be enjoyable watching Mack with his duckbills and hand brace be "on lead". 
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ovrthhills
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Posts: 197
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A new version of mixed climbing, Mack. Nice work. We were dodging wet slides on the Flett.
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telemack
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A new version of mixed climbing, Mack. Nice work. We were dodging wet slides on the Flett.
Can't wait to see your TR, Michael-you report inspired me to get in to the Mowich area w/Snowbell.
Glad you didn't have to stand on the pedals for 5 miles! 
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« Last Edit: 07/12/10, 12:34 PM by telemack »
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There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
George Santayana
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alecapone
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Posts: 711
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Very nice Mack and Keith!
Thanks for the invite Mack. Sorry I couldn't join you. Looks like a fun day for sure.
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scott
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JimD
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Cool! I had a similar fun challenge soloing up Pinnacle a few years ago in my rando boots. Going up was fine, but I took extra care on the steep "3rd class" on the way down.
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telemack
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Ski boots work fine on rappel...I can bail in any ol' footwear.
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There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
George Santayana
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blitz
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Posts: 314
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this is great stuff!
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alisa
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freightrainer
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Posts: 51
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Peter and I skied the Unicorn on Sunday. We got a late start so didn't get to Snow Lake until 1:00. Were the only skiers/ climbers on Unicorn Sunday afternoon - I imagine that Muir was a little busier?
We booted all the way to the top from Snow Lake. We did have skins with us but for the most part, the slopes are too steep and the booting went pretty well. I have to say that the most difficult part of the climb was getting through the melting snow and rocks around Snow Lake. I stepped through up to my thigh at least 6 times.
The summit block stopped us. I looked at the route and then my ski boots and then the route and decided that it was harder than 5.5 with the footwear we had. Next time we will take a tip from your post and bring some gear for the rock part of the route. I did get to see a goat scamper by as I considered my boots/ the route/ my boots (photo below).
The snow conditions were good! Thanks to Peter's wax job (glacier wax with a deep profile) we were fast from the top all the way to the lake.
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Keith_Henson
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Yeah, I busted through the snow down there by the lake as well. Ended up breaking the lower part of my whippet. (Fortunately Black Diamond carries replacement lower shafts.)
I have never understood why Beckey says that the climb up the block is class 3.
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Keith A Henson, Puyallup AAC "Let's go! That powder's not going to ski itself." www.KeithHenson.net |
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