June 27, 2004, Mt Rainier, Emmons Gl

At the last minute on Sat afternoon, we decided to change plans and head to Mt Rainier with the improving weather forecast rather than Hood or Adams.  Monika had to work until 2pm, but we still had time to get our climbing passes and head into the Inter Glacier alpine zone to camp by 8:30pm at about 6500'.  This afforded us a few hours sleep before an early start at 2am with  clear skies reassuring us of a promising day.

A choice of ski gear proved problematic at the start.  In favor of wider tele skis to handle a range of conditions, I had to forego the ski crampons.  On the icy slopes of the Inter Glacier, I soon found skinning to be futile and switched to boot crampons, proceeding to carry skis for most of the day -- an added weight to be often cursed.  But the day progressed well and the weather was near-perfect for climbing with firm snow, light winds, and low clouds cloaking the surrounding mountains below.

We decided to deposit our skis at 12,000'  where we thought the skiing might best begin with the freezing level forecast at that altitude.  There were also some minor technical features to negotiate at that point, and it was a lot easier to climb on with less weight.

We summited about 1pm in strong, cold wind feeling a bit miserable from the altitude, and really glad to be on top.  A few pics and congrads, and we were off quickly to retrieve skis -- a bit anxious about the descent conditions.  It never really seemed to warm up.  Sure enough, we put on our skis only to realize just how near boilerplate the conditions actually were, peering down a 1000' slope to a long gaping crevasse below.  Reluctantly we decided to down climb with crampons to 11,000' where conditions improved and were able to ski in nice softened snow, a 2-3" granular slush, down to Camp Sherman.  Then down further to rejoin the Inter Glacier which we found to still be in firm conditions back to camp -- getting increasingly grabby down low.

Soon reached the trail to what seemed like a never ending hike in ski boots, and back to the car by 7pm following a big day of +8000 vft.  Monika's first Rainier climb, and my first with skis, was very rewarding despite the ratio of effort to good skiing being less than we might have hoped for.

Note that the Glacier Basin area is really melted out, so the hike in is longer than usual.

Sorry to have missed the festivities at Sunrise -- maybe next year.