June 26, 2004, Mt Adams - The Diamond (with pic)
6/26/04
WA Cascades West Slopes South (Mt Rainier)
3409
3
A friend pointed me to CascadeClassics.com a while back and since then I'd looked to ski one of the classic descents. So after reading Charlie and Ben's 1998 first decent of the West Face of the North Ridge (WFNR), a.k.a. "The Diamond", I decided this would be a good one to start with (well, one that I could do).
Plans change. The original plan was to ski from the top of the Mt Adams via the upper entrance (North Ridge headwall). Friends Scott K and John R had flown over ten days before to get a view of their climbing route, Mt Adams Glacier. They took several nice shots of the upper headwall and bowl of the WFNR and it appeared to skiable given the amount of coverage in the entrance ramps and down further into the bowl that eventually leads to the top of the Diamond.
What a difference ten days makes. Nick C and I had planned to climb the North Ridge and I was to ski the route alone. Ten days of hot temperatures had melted out the lower portions of the headwall bowl and left a large area of scree and rock covered snow, and many sections of small but unskiable cliffs. After viewing the bowl from above, we hiked up to the top of the mountain via the ridge. We hiked to the summit but were slowed on the way by a 3 inch mostly frozen but breakable crust on top of 6 to 18 inches of sugar snow. This also made the ski back to the top of the north ridge unpredictable and unpleasant. So I took the skis off and walked down the rock sections with Nick about 700 vft to the top of the Diamond via the N ridge. Getting onto the Diamond is somewhat tricky and there was only one possible path. At 10,500 feet, down climb off the ridge over an undulating ramp until progress is halted due to a 20-foot overhanging cliff at the top of the Diamond - careful, this is all loose. Then climb up and to the left about 30 feet just east of the knob/gendarme at that marks the top of the Diamond. From there, climb down quickly angling down and right (rock fall hazards), and then sharp right at the base of the gendarme cliff base. A short 100 foot traverse under the west side of the gendarme puts you atop of the Diamond.
The afternoon sun had turned the entire slope into perfect corn and 2000 feet went all too quickly. There were a few small rocks littering the slope, but they were clearly visible and avoidable. This was a great ski and one I'd recommend to anyone. Thanks-
We skied/hiked out under sunny blue skies Sunday morning. Able to ski down to about 6K feet with a few ski carries. What a nice area!
Plans change. The original plan was to ski from the top of the Mt Adams via the upper entrance (North Ridge headwall). Friends Scott K and John R had flown over ten days before to get a view of their climbing route, Mt Adams Glacier. They took several nice shots of the upper headwall and bowl of the WFNR and it appeared to skiable given the amount of coverage in the entrance ramps and down further into the bowl that eventually leads to the top of the Diamond.
What a difference ten days makes. Nick C and I had planned to climb the North Ridge and I was to ski the route alone. Ten days of hot temperatures had melted out the lower portions of the headwall bowl and left a large area of scree and rock covered snow, and many sections of small but unskiable cliffs. After viewing the bowl from above, we hiked up to the top of the mountain via the ridge. We hiked to the summit but were slowed on the way by a 3 inch mostly frozen but breakable crust on top of 6 to 18 inches of sugar snow. This also made the ski back to the top of the north ridge unpredictable and unpleasant. So I took the skis off and walked down the rock sections with Nick about 700 vft to the top of the Diamond via the N ridge. Getting onto the Diamond is somewhat tricky and there was only one possible path. At 10,500 feet, down climb off the ridge over an undulating ramp until progress is halted due to a 20-foot overhanging cliff at the top of the Diamond - careful, this is all loose. Then climb up and to the left about 30 feet just east of the knob/gendarme at that marks the top of the Diamond. From there, climb down quickly angling down and right (rock fall hazards), and then sharp right at the base of the gendarme cliff base. A short 100 foot traverse under the west side of the gendarme puts you atop of the Diamond.
The afternoon sun had turned the entire slope into perfect corn and 2000 feet went all too quickly. There were a few small rocks littering the slope, but they were clearly visible and avoidable. This was a great ski and one I'd recommend to anyone. Thanks-
We skied/hiked out under sunny blue skies Sunday morning. Able to ski down to about 6K feet with a few ski carries. What a nice area!
...gotta love the north side of adams! ;D
Right on tony! You could've tried the northwest ridge (not the face) and had a little better luck with the same sort of steepness. Way to stick to your punches though and get the line you'd been looking over all along. Nice work! I'm sure you'll be back now. I'm glad I could help you out with the beta...
Jason- Thank you for all the info before the trip. You were right on the mark and it was all helpful to be sure. The area was exactly like you described- I'll be back!
Reply to this TR
Please login first: