Home > Trip Reports > June 12, Mt Garibaldi, NE face

June 12, Mt Garibaldi, NE face

6/15/10
Canada BC
2454
3
Posted by TBill on 6/14/10 3:43am
Able to drive Cheekye Rd up to 3800 ft before hitting snow (4 WD, high clearance, patience recommended). Just a short walk and you're able to skin on continuous snow up to summit face. From there it's a 500 ft boot up 45+ degree slope to summit 8776 ft / 2675 m.

Skin up road following sled tracks up to the local snowmobile club hut and continue along Brohm Ridge. Traverse across Warren Glacier and up NE face. Bergschrund and other crevasses are non issue right now but schrund may open some more within couple weeks.

Stability was better than expected; no triggered movement but an early ascent is recommended as the NE face gets baked early.

A 4:30 am start had us on the summit a little shy of noon. Back to the car at 4:30 pm. Saw one other group of climbers.

Gear: splitboard, ski/boot crampons, ice axe, glacier rope, picket (never used but may come in handy in a few weeks)
Many more pix: http://picasaweb.google.com/TrevorL.Williams/MtGaribaldiCanada#

Start line Friday evening: A short walk up the road will award continuous snow to skin.


First look at Garibaldi


Brohm Ridge:


Traversing across Warren Glacier:


The Table:


Crossing the schrund on NE face:


The payoff:

Nice! The 'shrund looks more filled in than it did when we were up there on May, 9th! We saw you at the end of your day, near the wilderness boundary. Skiers drinking beers sitting on sleds? The line labeled "does it go?" on your picasa album does indeed go. A few Squamish locals skied it when we were up last. May 9th we skied the little chute, lookers left of the summit ridge pinnacle in your last photo. It was powder then, looks like wet slide action now. Either branch of those roads is very hard on vehicles! Cheers and good job on that approach! PS- For those interested in this tour, the "Brohm Beach" summer solstice sled party is next weekend. Take note, or stay clear. That was my last sled assisted weekend of the season. BooHoo. The all mighty (or hated) sleds make this full day summit trip into a leisurely half day...

Nice TR and a beautiful series of photos.  The last time I was on Mt. Garibaldi was the spring of 1999 when we also did the Garibaldi Neve traverse along with a few days touring in Sphinx Bay . We did the long approach from the Elfin hut and finished at the Black Tusk TH.  Wonderful touring terrain.  I remember back then seeing snowmachine tracks approaching along your route.

Do you remember the amount the amount of time and vertical from your parking spot to the plateau ?

Toby, does the sled community offer tows/rides for an appropriate donation ?  Especially for us senior citizens.  ;)

Toby- Nice chatting w/ you guys. Thnx for the confirming that questionable line. Really impressive terrain out there. Will be back next winter.

Zap - Are you asking about the summit plateau? We parked roughly at 3700-3800 ft. Took ~7.5 hrs to reach summit from the car and gross elevation gain of ~5k ft. The approach has a fair amt of elevation gain/loss. You can see our route is greater detail here: http://share.findmespot.com/shared/faces/viewspots.jsp?glId=0j4CyKZ9ZgfNtFfFN87s5jA5iyl2bqpkZ

Reply to this TR

7566
june-12-mt-garibaldi-ne-face
TBill
2010-06-14 10:43:55