June 12, 2010, North Ingalls Peak
6/12/10
WA Cascades East Slopes Central
3284
4
Seems like folks were off in all directions this weekend with dreams of listbagging. I wanted to ski, Jake wanted to climb, and Dave just wanted to get out. So the three of us got together and compromised on North Ingalls for a bit of both. Though a repeat, it is a fun day in a gorgeous area.
The skiing:
Not much freeze last night so the snow softened up a few inches by the time the sun was on it for any period of time. By the time we got to the base of the rock climb it was saturated and heavy. Ropework seems to take forever so by the time we were back on the snow anything over 35 degrees would point release to about 6 inches deep and gather a lot of snow and some speed before it would stop on gentler ground. From the North-South Ingalls saddle we basically did some turns but mostly just traversed on back to Ingalls Pass. Snow below Ingalls Pass was significantly runneled in the open forest. We descended to 5200 feet and hiked on patchy snow out of there.
The climbing:
Much more fun than the skiing. To reach the rock we went around to the west side of the dogtooth crags. We had to kick steps in some steep snow that others were kind enough over the past week to make bomber. Good, since we didn't have a single ice ax or self arrest grip between us. The climb goes in two pitches from the ledge above the dogtooth crags at the top of the snow.
The climbing is easy in rock shoes, has many many stances for hanging out and placing bomber pro in the crack systems, and is never very steep. From the higher rappel station it is a scramble to the top. Actually, we were 10 feet shy of the true summit due to a steep thin snowpatch that we didn't want to kick steps into with rock shoes, we had left everything at the rap station, and had been there before.
The second (lower) rappel is a bit more than 30 meters (one 60 meter rope sufficient) but ends 10 feet above the ledge where the downclimbing is easy in a low angle wide crack.
Such a gorgeous day in the mountains that, despite the lack of firm corn to ski, made us all happy to be there!
The skiing:
Not much freeze last night so the snow softened up a few inches by the time the sun was on it for any period of time. By the time we got to the base of the rock climb it was saturated and heavy. Ropework seems to take forever so by the time we were back on the snow anything over 35 degrees would point release to about 6 inches deep and gather a lot of snow and some speed before it would stop on gentler ground. From the North-South Ingalls saddle we basically did some turns but mostly just traversed on back to Ingalls Pass. Snow below Ingalls Pass was significantly runneled in the open forest. We descended to 5200 feet and hiked on patchy snow out of there.
The climbing:
Much more fun than the skiing. To reach the rock we went around to the west side of the dogtooth crags. We had to kick steps in some steep snow that others were kind enough over the past week to make bomber. Good, since we didn't have a single ice ax or self arrest grip between us. The climb goes in two pitches from the ledge above the dogtooth crags at the top of the snow.
The climbing is easy in rock shoes, has many many stances for hanging out and placing bomber pro in the crack systems, and is never very steep. From the higher rappel station it is a scramble to the top. Actually, we were 10 feet shy of the true summit due to a steep thin snowpatch that we didn't want to kick steps into with rock shoes, we had left everything at the rap station, and had been there before.
The second (lower) rappel is a bit more than 30 meters (one 60 meter rope sufficient) but ends 10 feet above the ledge where the downclimbing is easy in a low angle wide crack.
Such a gorgeous day in the mountains that, despite the lack of firm corn to ski, made us all happy to be there!
Nice John!
Good combo. outing. You did the south ridge, right? I climbed it several Julys ago when there was only a few hundred feet of snow above Ingalls Lake. Way to shlep the rack and rope up on skis.
How close to the TH were you able to drive?
How close to the TH were you able to drive?
author=telemack link=topic=16909.msg71193#msg71193 date=1276445585]
Good combo. outing. You did the south ridge, right? I climbed it several Julys ago when there was only a few hundred feet of snow above Ingalls Lake. Way to shlep the rack and rope up on skis.
How close to the TH were you able to drive?
Hi Telemack,
Yes, it was the south ridge route. The road is clear of snow to the TH, and I just heard that the road to Cathedral Pass/Hyas Lake trailheads is snow free, too.
I suspect the skiing off the south side of Fortune by next weekend will be limited to about 5600 feet at best on the descent. Headlight Basin has tons of snow. We passed a guy with a fishing pole headed for Ingalls Lake when we were coming out! I couldn't say anything.
John
Hey John, thanks!
Did one of you loose an adaptor plate for the tlt? Found it July 4th at Esmarelda Basin TH.
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