May 14-16, 2004, Boulder Glacier-Mt. Baker

After a bacon and eggs starter and a leisurely re-packing session the approach was underway by noon.  The romp through the beutious old growth forest some how made the 60 pound pack not seem quite so heinous. After a little over a mile and a half we (Mike, Adam and John) hit skinnable snow (3300') but had to take our skis off once more for the steep southerly exposed dirt face around 3600'. By 5pm we were at the toe of the Boulder glacier where campsites abound but we pushed on and camped on the first main step of the glacier at 5900' instead, more or less in the center (N to S) of the glacier. We wisely roped up at the toe of the glacier (4300') and were crossing crevasses from the start. Crossings were easy though with 15-20' of annual cement still in place. The next morning we were out of camp by 6:30am and really had to guess what route up the glacier would be best.  From 5900' we continued up the center of the glacier and then viered left(south) gradually untill we nearly reached the left flank of the glacier around 8000'.  From there we shot pretty much straight up to the lahar-SM crater which is an amazing sight. Huge gapeing holes in the ice give way to steady clouds of sulpherous steam. Gaining the final 1000' vert. on the south side of grants peak we could see another climbing party across the crater bound for the summit via the Deming glacier. Clouds started building as we neared the summit but we were ahead of the weather by a good 2 hrs. Summited around 2pm and were back at camp 40 minutes later. We skied right from the peak with glacier peak, our route up shuksan and our entire huge decent down the boulder glacier all visable.  The snow conditions were perfectly timed, fast and edgeable softening with elevation loss. Back at camp we decided against the ardous exit and stayed another night.  By 5pm we were in the middle of a costal rain storm and spent hours trying our best to keep gear dry.  The next morning we exited in relatively dry weather.  This route was easily one of best i have done.